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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, here I go. I have a Rubi on order and I should get it in about 3 to 4 weeks. My plan is to put 33''s on with a nice lift. I have been doing some reading both on tis forum and on others and the info I have gained is this, and please correct me if I am wrong. With 33''s I can plan on running a 3 to a 4 inch lift, without doing a bodylift. All of this talk about drive shafts and CV stuff just boggles my mind at times. Is there a way in which I can put a lift on jet new tires and wheels and not have to worry about putting on a new drive shaft or CV thing'er?

Better yet can anyone give me a link or a URL for basic suspension knowledge 101? Man I am so embarrassed even to say that. I want to learn as much as I can before my Rubi arrives and I put on mods. Any help appreciated. :)

HELP :?

BigasaMountain
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Well first off........WELCOME....

Second......Please don't be embarrased about asking questions...I can speak for everyone on this forum and we are here to share ideas and help each other in the creation of our JP's...

Now for your question.......

There is no site that I know of that can give you a clear Idea of what you will want. Everyone has different manufactures that they have bought from and are either happy with or will tell you to stay away from.....

If you are looking to run 33" tires on your rubi there are a number of options that you can use that do not require a CV..

1st..2" budget boost and a 2" body lift. This is a very easy lift to install. You maintain all of the stock components except for the shocks. The body lift is very easy to install also with a little help from a buddy.

2nd..You can go with a 2.5" Old Man Emu (OME) lift and a 1" body lift (BL). I have heard good things about this lift and it has seem to be a popular lift for Rubi owners. Maybe someone on this forum could tell you more about the lift.

3rd....3.5" Rubicon Express (RE) lift. You can either do this with only changing the springs and shocks, Keeping the stock control arms but I would suggest getting an entire lift. The 3.5" RE superflex lift would be my suggestion. You can run 33"s with this lift and you will not need to do a BL unless you want to. The lift is not impossible to install but will require a weekend and a case of beer for you buddy. With this lift you will need to get upper rear control arms (URCA) which you will be able to adjust the pinion angle of the rear axle so that you can use the stock drive shaft. Very economical lift that you will be able to up grade to bigger springs in the future if you are wanting to go bigger.

4th...This is what I would do personally for economic perposes I would order a 4.5" superflex lift from RE and ask for 3.5" springs. This way you get all 8 control arms.

These are just a few of my opinons of some of the ideas that you can do. You can always ask for more information here.

Could some of you OME owners give us a tid bit on your lift and you likes and dislikes about any of these Ideas.

Cheers.

For Rubicon express items here is there web site (I feel like a salesman for them hehehehe :) ) http://www.rubiconexpress.com
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Hey Thank you so much for helping! :D

I have the money to do it right the first time. I just don't want to make a mistake. I am not very mechanical, and I have only a limited amount of tools. I have a buddy next door who works on cars in his spare time he has tools and an air compressor. I like the RE lift and I think I like the Terra flex as well. I just get worried with the Rubi being so new and the parts not fitting exactly rit, etc. Can you feel my hesitation? I need to find a site or a book in which I can study the suspension, and learn about this arm and that arm. I see the pictures of the really high TJ's and the articulation is amazing to me.

I think I will skip the Body lift thing until later, I do want a lift and I want a good one. I have hear about the Old Emu shocks, good things that is. I also worry about the "shovel" underneath. Lifting the Rubi and having that Transmission skid seems like it is defeating. I have seen some real neat Rubicons with a flat skid under there. How can I accomplish that?
Can I purchase a RE lift and take it into a place to put it on for me? Or am I asking for trouble, ie taking my parts and swapping them for lesser quality stuff, etc.

Man I have a lot of questions and about 4 weeks left until I get my Rubi. I would love to hear from all of you on this topic. Everyone's advice will be read and thought of. Thanks again.

Oh if you know of a site or link please let me know, so I can do some education of the Rubi's underside, or TJ's underside.

Once again Thanks in advance,
BigasaMountain
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BigasaMountain said:
.

Oh if you know of a site or link please let me know, so I can do some education of the Rubi's underside, or TJ's underside.

Once again Thanks in advance,
BigasaMountain
BAAM :)
Registration is now open for Jeep Suspension 101 in this Forum.

Jerry
 
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Discussion Starter #5
I have looked into the Rubicon Express lift. I like the look of the 3.5 super flex lift. When I went to the website and clicked on more details about this lift it said I need or is required a slip yoke eliminator and CV driveshaft on the stock NV231 transfer case. My question is this does the Rubicon have this, and do I need to put a Slip yoke eliminator,(By the way I am really not sure what this slip yoke eliminator is or what it does :oops: ) and do I need a cv drive shaft, I think that is the little section used to extend the driveshaft, am I reight about this?

I like and have heard Real Nice things about the Rubicon Express lift's. What kind of shocks would any of you recomend if I went ahead and got the RE super Flex kit-3.5''?

Thanks again, Suspension 101 class is in,
BigasaMountain
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Discussion Starter #6
The lift is the RE7003 from Rubicon Express.

Thanks
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You will not need a slip yoke eliminator on a RUBI.. On the Rubi it has a NP241OR transfercase.
 

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BigasaMountain said:
The lift is the RE7003 from Rubicon Express.

Thanks
BAAM
The RE Long Arm kits for the Rubicon are numbered:
3.5" Re7213
4.5" RE7214
5.5" RE7215

while the standard TJ Long Arm kits are numbered:
3.5" Re7203
4.5" RE7204
5.5" RE7205

If they are consistent, that would mean the RE7003 is for the standard TJ, and you would need an RE7013 for your Rubi. Call RE and confirm the kit part number for a 2003 Rubicon.

There's a thread running right now on JU http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=3254363#post3254363 with a couple of guys bitching about the RE 3.5" lift. These are automatic owners with the additional tranny skid. Take a look.

Jerry
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks JerryC!

I went and read that forum and I can see not only is that "Shovel" underneath the 03 TJ a mess but even worse for the Automatics, when they install the the Rubicon Express lift. Man that one picture had the driveshaft ground out.
Thanks for the heads up on the R.E. lift. Mine is going to have a Manual and I will remember to ask for the right kit when I call R.E.

Jerry what are your thoughts of the R.E. super flex 3.5 inch lift?

I want to run 33's 12.5 with 15 x 8 wheels. Do you think I may have wheel rub problems? What shock would you recommend on the R.E. lift? Oh...am I going to need to purchase a CV (what does this do?) is this the little extension to the driveshaft?

Do I need to do anything with the moter Mounts or Transfer Case?

What is involved when one puts in M.M.(motor mounts)?

Thanks newbie questions...please be kind, LOL

BigasaMountain
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BAAM:

The skids on all 2003 TJs are a problem. It's because of the new 42RLE automatic, which is larger than the old 3 speed auto. I have an auto, so I've purchased a Skid Row engine/tranny skid which will eliminate the front DS interference problem. Like most of us, I'm still waiting for some choices on how to address the TC skid problem.

I can't give you an opinion on the RE kit - I'm going a different way by installing the Off Road Only AiROCK adjustable suspension. Other folks on the forum are way more qualified to respond than I am. It seems most folks like the RE kits, but it's a personal choice. At 3.5 inches, the OME LT shocks are probably a good choice, but again, let's hear from guys who have actually done it.

With a 3.5 kit and 33s, you'll have no problems on the road. Depending on what kind of wheelin' you do, I would suggest a 1 inch body lift. That should take care of you nicely. I'd like to hear from some other members about that too.

If you install a 1 inch BL, you're going to need a 1 inch MM kit so the fan does not interfere with the lower part of the fan shroud. Or you can do what 4x4mac and I did - cut off the bottom of the shroud. Just don't put a hole in the radiator when you do this. I think installing MMs is a real PITA. I started to install them on mine and said the hell with it. I didn't have 3 men and a boy to help me get everything lined up. Anyone want a Goferit MM kit cheap?

Go to 4x4mac's post titled "new lift...need ARMOR!" Look at the last pic mac posted. That's a CV driveshaft. The CV joint is at the transfer case. It's actually constructed with 2 u-joints. The differential end is a conventional single u joint. At 3.5 inches you'll probably need one, but you could try the lift out and make your decision then. Anything above 4 inches and you definitely need a CV DS. The angles just get too great.

Hope this helps. Depending on the weather, Chapter 2 of Jeep Suspension 101 may be released this weekend. But first, I have to attend Finish Your Damn AiROCK Install 101.

Jerry
 

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A RE 3.5 lift will be more than enough with 33's. Like JerryC said a 1"BL maybe needed for articulation reasons. If you don't want to do your bump stops like me :D then I would suggest a BL.

The coversation about the CV driveshaft is different for each Jeep. I have heard of many people that have done a 3.5" lift and did not need a CV. I guess it is something that you will have to try. I strongly believe that you will not need one but like I said....Every Jeep is different.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
I have the Rubicon Express 3.5, and am running on 305-70-16's (33x12 equivalents) I have flexed it quite a bit (picture) with no rubbing at all.

I did have slight vibrations on deceleration without lowering the transfer case. I have since ordered adjustable control arms so that I can raise the skid back to stock. I intend to add a CV driveshaft and raised skid this month.

[/img]

This was taken at one week old with less than 200 miles. (I think this is the proper break-in procedure for a Jeep)
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Every one wants 33x12.50's. What s wrong with 33x10? I'll tell you whats good about 33x10's

With the OME HD springs and 1" bump extenders all the way around, my 255/85's will not hit the flares or control arms. No steering rub, no driveline vibes. The flex is great and ride is better after going to a load range D tire as well. I would need longer front brake lines to feel safe with Disco's but tire clearance is not a prob. Some of us have to go by laws that require your tires to be covered by your fenders too.


Here is what I don't like about any more than 3" lift:
T Case lowering kit or new drive shaft required if you get vibes
Longer front brakelines required
Higher center or Gravity
Front sway bar dissconnected the DS hits the Auto tranny skid at max droop.
More Mods=More $$$

I would reccomend getting an adj front trk bar no matter what type of lift you get. Redrilling the front axle mount is cheesy and not really possible if you only need to move it 1/2" or less. If you go with OME HD and decide you need a little more space you can add a body/mm lift
or just put longer bolts and spacers in the bumps. I am not overly concerned about max flex like many and don't run disco's. If I get a tire off the ground I'll use the lockers as needed.
 

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Wouldn't tires that were 33" tall and 10" wide have a metric size of 255/60R16? An aspect ratio of 85 would only produce a tire that is a 27.8" tall and 10" wide for 16" Rims.

LT305/70R16 tires are approximately 12" wide by 33" tall on 16" rims.
 

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Ken White said:
Wouldn't tires that were 33" tall and 10" wide have a metric size of 255/60R16? An aspect ratio of 85 would only produce a tire that is a 27.8" tall and 10" wide for 16" Rims.

LT305/70R16 tires are approximately 12" wide by 33" tall on 16" rims.
285/75R16 is the metric equivalent of a 10 inch wide 33.

Jerry
 

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I think it is about time I waded into this topic.

I currently have the 2.5" OME lift with 285/75s on it. Before the body lift I had extensive rubbing and mucho fender damage. I will be posting a write up of my fender repairs later. They look like new now and I even managed to take out most of the wrinkles I caused when I hit that damned Geo that shouldn't have been in my way. :evil:

I would highly recommend the HD OME kit. It rides beautifully and flexes really well. If you want a taller suspension lift I would suggest just putting on new taller springs and address all the track bar issues with that.

I know there many of you out there that are total RE fanatics (I may or may not be talking about you LILRDJP) but there are some disadvantages. First of all, if you live anywhere that snows you better be prepared to do some preventative maintenance to avoid rust. The RE stuff is built in Cali and it doesn't hold up well here in Canada. Powder coating would be the way to go. If RE has started powder coating then I'm sure that someone will be nice enough to point this out in short order.

Secondly, there isn't an aftermarket joint that flexes as well as the stock arms and don't require regular (bi-weekly :wink: ) maintenance. The OEM arms are designed to torsionally flex while retaining their compression/tension strength. Not to mention that they are cheap and the bushings are quiet and last a long time.

Also, the RE LA arms are just too damned long. The frame connection for the lower arms hang down pretty low. Whenever you come down off a rock you will be banging your arms. The LA kits are the best riding out there, by far. I am still waiting for a medium length arm kit. That would be perfect.

I wheel with a guy that drives a 97 TJ with 4" lift springs and the stock control arms. It is just starting to squeak now. He isn't just an occasional wheeler either, he is pretty serious. If you think about it, even though Jeep is a manufacturer that is trying to save money, they have put quite a bit of research time into their suspension design. It works pretty well, why mess with it?

The biggest concern with this setup is the pinion angle. You will have to buy the cam bolts to do this sort of setup but IMHO it is worth it. The other option would be to get a set of upper arms (I like the Currie arms). They would have to flex extremely well because I have seen those UCA mounts get ripped off because the joints/arms don't flex well at all. I guess what I am trying to say is that simple is better.

I hope I haven't stepped on anyone's toes here. To each their own, this is just my not nearly educated enough opinion.
 

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285mm*1in/25.4mm = 11.22" Wide

(11.22"/.75) = 14.96"

14.96" + 16" Rim = 30.96" or 31"

I believe these are the correct conversion formulas.

Ken
 
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Discussion Starter #18
nope its width x height aspect ratio not divided
285/75 is 32.8 x 11.22

255mm / 25.4"=10.03 cross section
10.03 x .85=8.5255" height from rim to tread
8.5255" x 2 + 16" = 33.051 diameter

http://www.intercotire.com/html/trxus_mt___sts.htm

And of course it varies depending on manufacturer/brand/type

i'm just saying if you stay with narrow tires you can get 33's with less lift, minumim mods/$$$ and a great ride. The TRXus are great for the money and quieter than stock GY MTR's. Prob won't last as long but hey they are not $180-$190 a tire :D
 

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My Bad!! I just looked at the definition again and you are correct Jerry.

285mm*1"/25.4mm = 11.22"

(11.22" * .75)*2 = 16.83"

16.83" + 16" = 32.83"

Sorry!!!

Ken
 
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Discussion Starter #20
Ahhhh Math one of the finer subjects, goes well with typing 101, so we can actually type the math on the screen. English is another language we are working on here. It fails us often. :lol: :lol: Guilty on all occasions here.

Ron
 
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