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Discussion Starter #1
Installed some LED turn signals, and now my signals are on rapid fire!
I know there is a variable load flasher available for OTHER vehicles, not ours. Can someone tell me the easiest way to remedy this situation?

Thanks,
Roy
 

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Did you buy LED turn signals that were meant for a Jeep or were they just LED meant for a motorcylcle or something. I would suggest that you put a resistor inline with your turn signal unit. The LED use so little current that the control module may not be able to handle it. What was the wattage of the bulb that was in the old turn signal and what is the wattage of the new signal? If you can give me more information I can tell you how big of a resistor to use.
 

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Roy Olivieri said:
Installed some LED turn signals, and now my signals are on rapid fire!
I know there is a variable load flasher available for OTHER vehicles, not ours. Can someone tell me the easiest way to remedy this situation?

Thanks,
Roy
Roy,
hey...long time no see.....lets see some pics..
also plzzzzz list some part numbers.
thanks
mac
 

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I read somewhere that adding a resistor causes the wires to run really hot which could become a potential fire hazard.
The suggestion was to leave the regular light attached, and tap off the wire for the LED light. Just leave the other light inside the body so no one sees it.

I can not confirm the validity of this however.
 

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I had the same problem and posted on JU, there are details on how to dismantle the existing flasher and solder a jumper wire to delete the "bulb-out" flash-fast feature. I did the soldering and I have no problems after about 7 months.
Read the link below, there are a couple of fixes but I know the jumper works fine. (the only trade-off is now the signal lights work when the key is off)
HTH
Read about 2/3 the way down to Jeepin' Geo's fix, that's what I did.


http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/sh ... genumber=2
 

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I would still put a resistor in line with the LED lights. I like the flash fast feature because it tells you when a bulb it burnt out. My recommendation would be a 15 Ohm, 10-20W resistor. I can't see how it would make the wires run hot. The only way that would happen is if the total draw on the circuit is more than the original buib. I would have to know what the rated draw from your LED replacement is to make sure.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Replaced the tail light bulbs with LEDs and the brake lights are the only lights that work properly. The signal lights are the "Rapid Fire" as described above. But the tail lights don't work at all.

Any ideas?
 

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Cal said:
Replaced the tail light bulbs with LEDs and the brake lights are the only lights that work properly. The signal lights are the "Rapid Fire" as described above. But the tail lights don't work at all.

Any ideas?
I don't know about the tailights, but see my earlier post and link about the "rapid fire" flasher fix of Triver525's fix.

HTH
Vince
 

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Cal said:
Replaced the tail light bulbs with LEDs and the brake lights are the only lights that work properly. The signal lights are the "Rapid Fire" as described above. But the tail lights don't work at all.

Any ideas?
on my LED for rear 3rd brake light... i had a no light work issue after it worked.
what i did was switch the poles.opppppppssss
try switching the pins see if they work
mac
 

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Chances are, your flasher thinks you have an open lamp since LED's draw so little current.

One option is to put a small value resistor in parallel with the LED power wires and this will draw more of a load, but this really defeats the purpose of using low power, long life, LED's anyway. The resistor would have to be fairly large in wattage rating about 10W since the side marker and turn signals are connected in series and they combine for this wattage. This would generate lots of extra heat, and could possibly cause other issues.

The best option is to get a flasher unit designed to work with very little current draw. In the long run, this will save power and possible safety issues.

If you can take some voltage and current messurements, I could help you easier.

Good luck,

Ken
 

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Putting a resistor in parallel will do f'all. As far as the circuit is concerned, the resistor (because it has so much higher resistance than the LEDs) won't draw any current whatsoever.

If you have the LED lights, and you don't want to do the flasher modification, then send me the specs of your lights and I will tell you exactly what resistor to put in the system (and where) so that the flasher will think it is driving a incandescant bulb. Ken's right though, if you were going for energy savings, then this isn't going to help you at all.
 

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Hey Triver, if you put a resistor in series with the load (the LED circuit), you will reduce the overall current drain, and since the voltage is constant, the power will go down and this will not solve the problem. The LED's will also dim.

In order to increase the load (current draw), and alternate path for current must be created, hence the resistor in parallel with the LED input wires.

LED's behave like a constant voltage load - look at the Current vs. Voltage curves for these devices in any textbook. Typically a resistor is added in series with the LED to limit the current to some safe value of around 20 mA to 30 mA for desired lumens. With no resistor in series, the current is not limited and the LED will be destroyed.

Red LED's have a forward voltage drop range of around 1.6 VDC to 2.0 VDC when forward biased.

Other color LED's have higher voltage drop ranges due to their repsective wavelength for the color and bandgap voltage.

The flasher can be modified by replacing the in-line current sense resistor with a higher resistance. This will provide the same voltage drop across it for a lower current and it will think everything is fine.

I am surprised that a new low current flasher didn't come with the kit.

Good luck and if you decide you might want to take a few voltage and current measurements for me, I might be able to help.

Ken
 

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Ken, I nobody on here wants to hear about this crap but your last post has piqued my interest. Electronics were definitely not my stong subject when I went to school (I'm more suited towards the high power stuff) so I am willing to be corrected (blatent cop out statement).

If I am reading what you are saying properly, the LED replacements actually draw much less current than a regular incandescant bulb? Come to think of it, that sounds about right considering that the burn out sensing circuit would be looking for an open circuit which a low current draw LED setup would look like. Essentially you are saying the resistor goes in parallel to lower the equivalent resistance.

OK, you win (read: your'e right, I'm wrong). :oops: :stupid:
 

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Hey Triver, not trying to start anything I am just trying to help out.

Your logic is exactly correct. Another major advantange of LED's is that they last for 100's of thousands of hours. That is why they are starting to replace incandescants in stop lights - really reduces maintenance costs!!

Take care and sorry if I offended you.

Ken
 

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Ken,

There was absolutely no offense. I was trying to say that you are entirely right in your explaination and that I hadn't thought things through properly.

In re-reading my post, I am seeing that many would interpret the "nobody on here wants to hear about this crap" as being snarky. I was trying to say that, in my experience, nobody wants to hear two electrical engineers talking about something technical. My intention of the response was to tell everyone following the thread that I was wrong (so don't listen to me) and to learn a little bit more.

I'm not a flamer (you know the context I am referring to) and I'm sorry for causing offense to anyone, especially you Ken.

Whitney
 

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Group Hug Boys.... :beercheers:
 

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Beers work for me, and Triver is correct, there is nothing worse than 2 electrical engineers talking shop.

:beercheers:

Ken
 
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Dang, now I guess school is out for me, I guess I will have to find a better use for this screwdriver, hmmm what about these two prongs here. Ouch, okay maybe not. :lol: :oops: I like a good technical lesson, maybe you two should get together and come up with a post/ training lecture in the technical section. A few of us would enjoy the knowledge. You should learn something new every day of your life, I was once told. Sometimes I learn really stupid stuff, talk to a 3 year old for a little while, they are amazing. :lol:

Ron
 
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