Rubicon Owners Forum banner

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone ran hydro-assist on the Currectlync setup? I have the complete PSC hydro assist set up, and still have the currie links... Just wondering how you set it up, or what links you went to to make it work?

Pics are my friend. :D

Cheers!
Ed
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,270 Posts
Pretty sure Blaine is working on a setup (Savvy Offroad). It's been bantered about on JF a little bit on his Savvy thread....

I know others have done it on here as well, can't recall the last one I saw though.

I'm interested in it, eventually....
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,358 Posts
The only hydro assist that I know of that is being run on Currie steering is PSC and that is on the JK's. I think their system is 1 ton. I don't think anyone has installed a hypo assist on a TJ system yet. I would be interested in this as well however
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
248 Posts
CR is correct about Blaine working with PSC on this one. I have seen pictures on JeepForum of the bracketry he used to attach the shaft end to the Currie drag link (clamp). However, I also know that he was attempting to get them to use a slightly different design for the cylinder body as the one they currently use is a little too long for this application without some custom bracketry on the axle end (Mine required a good bit of custom work because of cylinder length). And you reused the steering stabilizer bracketry on the axle but I believe he had a bracket designed to beef it up to support the forces involved.

Are you running the Currie steering now and are adding the hydro?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Yes. I have the Currie on right now, and have everything except the cylinder from PSC installed as well (Gear, Pump, Cooler...)

From what I can see, if I shorten my track bar and mount it in the steering stabilizer location, it frees up the space below it and I can mount my cylinder to that for the axle end and weld the tabs onto my tie rod for the other end.

I'm a bit confused about your post regarding connecting the cylinder to the drag link. If you connect the cylinder between the axle and the drag link, all you will do is load your suspension. I've heard of guys going from FRAME to drag link, but then that adds strain to the track bar.

If the currie links will bind up too much, I'm completely willing to go with a U-turn set up or true high steer so I can install this cylinder. For those that ARE running hydro, what cross-over system are you set up with to handle the extra steering force?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
SO...

After reading a TON on this forum about "KIT" crossover set-ups, I know to stay away from ORO, Rusty's, Rock Krawler, and TF apparently...

The Teraflex crossover was the closest thing to true crossover, but you can't weld tebs onto their aluminum links for hydro.

Currie still seems to be the steering of choice on this board (which was why I got it ib the first place) so I'd really like to know what the heck guys are running with Hydro-assist.

C'mon, anybody?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,965 Posts
You do not need weld on tabs for aluminum steering. Get a set of tubing clamps and weld the bracket to the clamp. This way, the clamp can mount anywhere you want

I used to run hydro assist with the TXT setup. It was similar to the Tera-Flex knuckles.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,396 Posts
I just did hydro assist using the Tera knuckle got it from parts mike at poly it's about 100 bucks cheaper
drag link and tie rod are home built out of heavy wall dom from the local metal store, running 7/8 rod ends with 5/8 through bolts on both. used this kit from psc
http://www.pscmotorsports.com/-SK250-Jeep-03-06-TJ-Extreme-Duty-Cylinder-Assist-Kit.html
set up to ram off my panhard mount axle side with some simple tabs and welded similar tabs on the tie rod works perfect will post picks later if it helps
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Yeah Murphy pics would be AWESOME!

I've pretty much decided the Panhard mount on the axle side would be the best place for the cylinder to mount, but a picture speaks a million words in this case.

Phillip, if you have any shots of your old setup, could you post 'em? I have heard of this elusive TXT steering, but can't find it. Out of business I guess?

*edit* I've been on Pirate, but have never registered. Not fond of getting flamed, so I never have. And since I'm not registered, I can't search because I have been though that site inside and out to find it but cant.

That link you posted asks for my login ID, so I'm guessing that's why I can't use the search function.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Just registered at Pirate. Gonna see what they have posted as well.

... Pics are still VERY welcomed... LOL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
NICE! I was thinking of going that route too, but some people (on this forum) have strongly advised others against using rod ends for steering on a DD.
How long have you ran that set-up?
And do you DD your rig?
How's it work on road?
Any clearance issues between the wheel/tire and the draglink?
What backspacing are you running?
Am I asking enough questions? LMAO!

You wouldn't happen to have part #'s for the weld in bungs and rod ends would ya? Tube diameter and wall thickness?

Oh, and thanks for the quick reply!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
248 Posts
Gustapo said:
From what I can see, if I shorten my track bar and mount it in the steering stabilizer location, it frees up the space below it and I can mount my cylinder to that for the axle end and weld the tabs onto my tie rod for the other end.

You can make room for the cylinder by doing this but you end up with steering geometry issues. And, as a general rule you don't want to shorten your track bar.

I'm a bit confused about your post regarding connecting the cylinder to the drag link. If you connect the cylinder between the axle and the drag link, all you will do is load your suspension. I've heard of guys going from FRAME to drag link, but then that adds strain to the track bar.

How so? Your drag link moves in relation to your axle just as your tie-rod does. With them being connected I would tend to think that applying force to either would result in the same end, assuming that the cylinder is mounted linearly to the range of motion.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,965 Posts
Gustapo said:
Phillip, if you have any shots of your old setup, could you post 'em? I have heard of this elusive TXT steering, but can't find it. Out of business I guess?
Here are a few of the old setup. Its similar to Murphy's setup. Your correct, TXT went out of business.









And here's a quick shot of the new setup. Might give you an idea or two.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Squatchy07 said:
Gustapo said:
From what I can see, if I shorten my track bar and mount it in the steering stabilizer location, it frees up the space below it and I can mount my cylinder to that for the axle end and weld the tabs onto my tie rod for the other end.

You can make room for the cylinder by doing this but you end up with steering geometry issues. And, as a general rule you don't want to shorten your track bar.

I'm a bit confused about your post regarding connecting the cylinder to the drag link. If you connect the cylinder between the axle and the drag link, all you will do is load your suspension. I've heard of guys going from FRAME to drag link, but then that adds strain to the track bar.

How so? Your drag link moves in relation to your axle just as your tie-rod does. With them being connected I would tend to think that applying force to either would result in the same end, assuming that the cylinder is mounted linearly to the range of motion.
I completely agree that shortening the track bar is not ideal, but was just saying that it was the most feasible with my current link set up.

As for connecting the cylinder from the axle to the drag link, you're also right in that the drag link moves the same as the tie rod in relation to the axle. The issue lies in resistance. If the resistance from the knuckle is greater than the resistance of the weight of the Jeep (as it tends to be in the rocks), the cylinder will simply push the driver's side of the jeep up/or pull it down instead of pushing the drag link sideways. Essentially, you are increasing/decreasing the distance between whatever two points the cyinder ends are mounted to. By connecting one end to the axle and one end to the drag link (effectively tieing it to the frame vie steering gear), you will increase/decrease the distance between the two points whichever means is easiest. By connecting it that way, you have two possible ways to change that distance, suspension or steering. By tying it between the axle and tie rod, there is only one way to increase/decrease that distance, and that's for the tie rod to move in relation to the cylinder.

The only "proper" way to connect the cylinder to the drag is from the frame, not the axle, as this eliminates the suspension out of the equation (with the exception of the track bar).

Hope that makes sense.
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top