Hydro assist on Currie links?

here ya go sorry about the quality its dark out there

Gustapo said:

Phillip, if you have any shots of your old setup, could you post 'em? I have heard of this elusive TXT steering, but can't find it. Out of business I guess?

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Here are a few of the old setup. Its similar to Murphy's setup. Your correct, TXT went out of business.









And here's a quick shot of the new setup. Might give you an idea or two.

Squatchy07 said:

Gustapo said:

From what I can see, if I shorten my track bar and mount it in the steering stabilizer location, it frees up the space below it and I can mount my cylinder to that for the axle end and weld the tabs onto my tie rod for the other end.

You can make room for the cylinder by doing this but you end up with steering geometry issues. And, as a general rule you don't want to shorten your track bar.

I'm a bit confused about your post regarding connecting the cylinder to the drag link. If you connect the cylinder between the axle and the drag link, all you will do is load your suspension. I've heard of guys going from FRAME to drag link, but then that adds strain to the track bar.

How so? Your drag link moves in relation to your axle just as your tie-rod does. With them being connected I would tend to think that applying force to either would result in the same end, assuming that the cylinder is mounted linearly to the range of motion.

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I completely agree that shortening the track bar is not ideal, but was just saying that it was the most feasible with my current link set up.

As for connecting the cylinder from the axle to the drag link, you're also right in that the drag link moves the same as the tie rod in relation to the axle. The issue lies in resistance. If the resistance from the knuckle is greater than the resistance of the weight of the Jeep (as it tends to be in the rocks), the cylinder will simply push the driver's side of the jeep up/or pull it down instead of pushing the drag link sideways. Essentially, you are increasing/decreasing the distance between whatever two points the cyinder ends are mounted to. By connecting one end to the axle and one end to the drag link (effectively tieing it to the frame vie steering gear), you will increase/decrease the distance between the two points whichever means is easiest. By connecting it that way, you have two possible ways to change that distance, suspension or steering. By tying it between the axle and tie rod, there is only one way to increase/decrease that distance, and that's for the tie rod to move in relation to the cylinder.

The only "proper" way to connect the cylinder to the drag is from the frame, not the axle, as this eliminates the suspension out of the equation (with the exception of the track bar).

Hope that makes sense.