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I have a 2004 TJ Rubicon with a 4" Superlift (on it when I bought it...) suspension lift and 33's.

I recently replaced all 8 arms with Rokmen arms and (long story) installed a new CV driveshaft.

I was hoping the Rokmen arms would help the ride a little but it rides like a tank. My short term plans include installation of a tummy tuck and then I'm done. I'd prefer to NOT install a body lift.

The 4" lift seems a bit tall to clear the 33's in my opinion, so dropping it seems logical. However, I'd rather not limit myself too much for a probably switch to 35's in a year or two when these tires wear out.

What are my options, if there are any at all? All I can come up with are 3" Nth coils or just going all out and dropping down to a stock suspension with something like TNT tube fenders (which admittedly would be pretty cool).

What's going to make the most difference on my current setup, better coils or better shocks? I know people have some creative ideas here, so let's hear them.
 

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I run 33's with a 4" lift also and feel that much lift is just right to accomodate the tires at full articulation. Usually ride quality is a function of shocks. Skyjacker Hydros (NOT Nitros-to stiff) are what I'm running after replacing Pro-Comps and they improved ride quality greatly. Granted there's shocks out there that are more expensive and have more cachet but I like the Skyjackers.
 

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I still have the stock arms but will change them out this year.
I have a 1.25" body lift and Old Man Emu HD springs and shocks
and the ride on and off the highway was much improved over stock.
If yours is riding like a tank the springs may be too stiff.
Shocks control the ride and are very key in ride characteristics, but if you
have too much spring the shock can't fix that.
4" lift on a short arm is starting to get over the parameters of the design IMHO.
Drop the spring height a little and go with a body lift to get 35" tires under it.
 

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4" is too tall for 33's....I'd drop to a 3" spring and with that a softer shock. If you're going 35's in the future an 1 1/4" BL isn't a bad thing.
 

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Red Dog Leader said:
4" is too tall for 33's....I'd drop to a 3" spring and with that a softer shock. If you're going 35's in the future an 1 1/4" BL isn't a bad thing.
Seriously... I'm running 37" tires with that much lift (actually a 3" suspension lift and 1.25" BL, and some minor sheet metal trimming). I was only running 2" of lift when I was running 33" tires...
 

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Every aftermarket spring I know of except one rides stiffer than stock, with just how stiff depending upon how much overall weight is on your chassis. The one exception is the OME HD springs and matched shocks.

Those are 2" springs and you will need to use a small spring spacer to get to 3". I would hesitate to advise how much spacer without understanding more about how much lift you get with the springs.

My best guess is that you add the OME springs/shocks and then remove the 1/2" rubber isolator and add a 1.5" or 1.75" spring spacer. The shocks you want are the OME N66L/N67L's which are 100mm longer than stock, and the springs would be the OME 933/942's which are nominally 50mm longer than stock (and the spring spacers add another 25-35mm).

But really, you would install the springs then measure to find the correct spacers for 3" of lift. It is probable that the front/rear spacers are different heights.
 

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Maybe I should have mentioned in my above recommendation that I'm running stock fenders and that at full compression the 33x12.5's are stuffed into the fenderwells with very little room to spare. I therefore don't see how, with that set-up, I could get by with less lift. Granted, there may be different ways to achive that amount of lift but, IMHO, I don't see how you could run that size tire with very much less lift and not scrunch something at some point. Of course I'm open to enlightenment.
 

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BLACK RUBI said:
Maybe I should have mentioned in my above recommendation that I'm running stock fenders and that at full compression the 33x12.5's are stuffed into the fenderwells with very little room to spare. I therefore don't see how, with that set-up, I could get by with less lift. Granted, there may be different ways to achive that amount of lift but, IMHO, I don't see how you could run that size tire with very much less lift and not scrunch something at some point. Of course I'm open to enlightenment.
Sounds to me like you are running stock bumpstops. No matter how much lift you run, you either need extended bumpstops or body lift (or a combination of both) to go larger in tire size. It is a matter of geometry - no matter how tall those springs are, you will always be able to stuff the axle to the bumpstop, so to gain tire clearance, you have to either move the bumpstops down or move the body up.
 

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I have 3" suspension, 1.25" BL and 2" bumpstop spacing. Trimmed a little bit of sheetmetal inside the plastic flares, and trimmed the flares.

Here is a picture with passenger front and driver rear tires (36" Swampers at that time) stuffed all the way to the stops:



And a similar shot (but not quite flexed as hard) with the 37" MTRs:

 

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X2 on the bump stops. Plus if you're getting that much stuff with 33's and your 4" lift, I'd be checking your brackets on your front axle. The superlift control arms with poly bushings do not have that much flexibility. There's a good chance that the brackets (especially on the passenger side) are breaking their welds. Could lead to a whole lot of problems. I'd do a thorough check of all of your brackets. Trust me on this....I speak from experience after having a POS lift with solid control arms.
 

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BLACK RUBI said:
Maybe I should have mentioned in my above recommendation that I'm running stock fenders and that at full compression the 33x12.5's are stuffed into the fenderwells with very little room to spare. I therefore don't see how, with that set-up, I could get by with less lift. Granted, there may be different ways to achive that amount of lift but, IMHO, I don't see how you could run that size tire with very much less lift and not scrunch something at some point. Of course I'm open to enlightenment.
I run LT305/70R16's (33x12.3") with 2" OME springs (about 1.75" lift after 6 years and using a hardtop) and 1.25" BL. I do rub mildly on any of the four tires at Moab with most of the Jepp's weight on one corner. But not hard enough to damage anything. I do also use 1.25" wheel spacers and 3/4" front spring spacers to compensate for the weight of bumper, winch plate, and winch. Therefore I maintain that the correct amount of lift for 33's is 3" and not 4".

I used 10mm bumpstop extension in the rear and stock bumpstops in the front, but remember the BL gets 1.25" extra space betrween the tire and fender, front and rear.

Lastly remember that the drawback to the spring spacers is that the spring cannot compress whatever amount the spacer occupies. That is equivalent to increasing the spring rate, but has the drawback that the lighter spring can get damaged by overcompression.
 

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I'm at the disadvantage of not really knowing how much lift is on my Jeep because I bought it used. The rig had 7500 miles on it and the lift, along with tires and wheels were the only mods. Since all the tire/wheel/lift info I could find recommended a 4" lift for 33x12.5x15's tires I therefore assumed that mine had a 4" lift. Is there a way to determine lift by the length of the springs while they're on the vehicle?

I did check my bump stops and they're 7 3/4" to 8" long. I can see an added piece between the bump stop body itself and the orange colored rubber piece at the bottom. Is that the stock length? I also gave a cursory check of my control arms and all seems well. Besides I have no handling problems what so ever. I will check them closer tomorrow.

Thanks for all the input so far guys.

Ed
 

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I checked all my control arms and all's well - no slop or broken welds etc. All you gurus above aren't going to leave me hanging on this are you? I'd sure appreciate any added comments to the points in my above post. Thanks.

Ed
 

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Thanks for the reply. My upper control arms are stock. The bottom ones are tubular, have "poly" (red) bushings, and are painted wrinkle black.
 

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I was in your same boat, bought a rubi with a 4 inch lift.. If they are superlift springs they should have a number on them. I had to look pretty closely but was able to find a white number inside. little info search and wallala 4 inch super lift springs.. I can go get the numbers if you would like.
 

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facetiousxm said:
I was in your same boat, bought a rubi with a 4 inch lift.. If they are superlift springs they should have a number on them. I had to look pretty closely but was able to find a white number inside. little info search and wallala 4 inch super lift springs.. I can go get the numbers if you would like.
Thanks for the info. When I got my Rubi I did some research and made some assumptions: There was a Pro-Comp sticker on the white steering stablizer and white shocks with no stickers but with some numbers on them (since replaced with Skyjacker Hydros). From there I went on line to Pro-Comp and found that the shock numbers crossed with a 4" lift kit. Came to the conclusion that I had a 4" lift but that is based on some fairly thin evidence. The fact that numbers probably have changed over the years, who knows what I have for sure. All I do know is that it rides well (compared to my '80 CJ5) after replacing the shocks, and handles well on the road. It also currently seems to do well off road but who knows what mods the future holds.
 
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