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I have a 2004 Rubicon, and I want to lift it as high as possible ( no more than 35") but I drive 90% on road, are 35" tires too big, I heard they are? I am leaning towards 35" w/ 4:88 w/ 4-5" Lift from either Tera Flex, Rubicon Express or Currie( not sure which lift is the best) . I am further confused as wether I want to torch and weld Long Arms on my brand new Rubi ( scary thought) ... HELP
 

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In my opinion, the reason not to go to 35" tires is the gearing, but you seem to be willing to address that with the 4.88s which should work fine.

Of the lifts listed, I do not have first hand experience with Currie, but of the other two, I would pick the RE (which I did)
 

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A bunch of us drive 35s daily. The only downside that I will complain about is my gas mileage. With 4.88s and 35s, I get 200 miles out of a tank.
:eek:
Other than that, a properly setup jeep on 35s will ride very nice. No, it wont be as good as stock, but Yes it can be pretty darn close.

You can go long or short arm to fit 35s. I think that depends on how much height you want, what type of wheeling you plan on doing and whether or not your state is a stickler on fender laws.
 
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35s are great IMHO, I remain very happy with them but I will admit that 33x12.50s seem to be "perfect" on the Rubi. They seem to do all things well and they add a very solid feel to the Rubi/TJ series that 10" wide tires lack overall and the Rubi is still quite peppy with 33s and from personal observation it seems that a good driver can tackle 98% of what can be done with 35s.
 

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04Rubicon-PA said:
can tackle 98% of what can be done with 35s.
98% implies just about everything or better yet, out of 100 trails, 98 of them can be done by both 33s and 35s. This depends on so many factors outside of tire size that I think 98% is really on the high side and misleading to the people who dont know better. You also need to define what "Can Tackle" means. Sure, you can scrape your way and damage your jeep through a lot of stuff and take an easier line or be hi-lifted, dragged and winched through. To me, that isnt doing the same thing.

Sorry, but this is just one of those blanket statements that I just dont like and I have seen it disproved numerous times.

But.....
Dont get me wrong, A jeep locked front and rear with 33s and a tucked tummy is a very formidable setup. A Rubicon on 33s is one killer vehicle and is easily half the cost to setup than a properly setup jeep on 35s.
 
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Actually Dave it is ok as the 2% difference can encompass a lot of area and a lot of situations. But I meant under it's own power in situations where 1" may or may not make a difference as to if and when the Jack or the Winch have to be brought out.
 

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Still too much of a blanket statement for me. The diffence between a jeep on 33s and a jeep on 35s is alot more than the 1" under the axle. I am just concerned about misinforming the people who really dont understand the difference. There are just too many factors to make it seem like they are almost the same.

It's all good, we are allowed to be different in our opinions.
:beerchug:
 

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I can say from experience in Moab on some of the toughest trails there, that the stockers, or TT only Rubis, kept up just fine without scraping. They might not fair so well in other areas. The 35s with the mathcing giant lift will get you through some large boulder filled areas where a rig on 33's and little lift can't go or requires excellent spotting, so it depends on the terrain. As someone who I wheeled with (with 35s and big lift on a rubi) said to me regarding the Blanca Peak trail... "that trail was real easy". It is one of the most difficult trails in CO, on par with the Rubicon in CA. Big tires and lift and lockers can take driver skill out of the equation, or reduce the list of trails that would be remotely interesting to you to just a few. I am running 33s because I've found they are very capable for my area, while still leaving me with lots of trails that can keep my interest and I'm willing to give up 2% to have that. Then again, I am a bit of a noob at wheeling. Maybe I'll change my mind over time.
 

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Great points
The converse is also true.

There are also alot of areas where a stock jeep or one with smaller tires and lower lift can be a heck of alot safer and go places where a lifted jeep might roll.
 

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I have 4.5 RE lift 1 inch body and 35's with stock gears. I drive my Rubi 150 miles per day round trip to work. It runs fine with the stock 4.11 gears. I am getting about 275 miles per tank. Curries lifts are over priced IMO.
 

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How do you figure the currie kit is overpriced? Currie gives you everything you need including shocks(rancho 9000X) and adjustable lower CA's. RE doesn't include shocks or adjustable lower CA's so if you figure that into the price of the RE you will be paying more for there kit than the Currie with an anti-rock.

Currie Johnny Joint w/antirock
$2,149.95

RE 4.5 SF +shocks&adj. lowers
$2,180.80

prices from both websites
 
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My 488s just came in and have not been installed yet, what kind of mileage are you getting? He said stock gears which really surprised me based on the 275 miles per tank figure.
 

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With 35s and 4.88s I am getting up to 200 miles per tank.
With 33s and stock gears I used to be able to get 270-300 miles tank

I can't remember what I got with the 35s and stock gears.
 

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33's vs 35's

I have been contemplating 33’s or 35’s on my 04 Rubi. After reading all the above, I’ll be going with 285/75/15 MT/R’s. (33 x 11.5) Now all I have to decide is which lift to use. I’m leaning towards a 3” RE w/ Rancho 9000x shocks. Any advice?
 

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I love my 35's. The 4.5" RELA is the way to go, IMHO. The shop I use really likes it for the TJ as well. Better ride than stock. I move to 4.56 gears as well, Precision did not recommend the 4.88 as they have had problems in the stock D44.

I encourage a few engine mods too witht he 35's and a body lift.

Pics are here:
http://community.webshots.com/user/superiorjeep
 

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SuperiorJeep said:
Precision did not recommend the 4.88 as they have had problems in the stock D44.
That is interesting. I have not heard of one failure of Yukon 4.88s in the Rubicon Axles.

What brand 4.88s are they referring to and were they in a Rubicon Axle or a TJ D44 axle?

How many incidents?

This is good information to know for those contemplating it.
 

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I have been contemplating between 33” and 35”. I just returned from talking to a guy at a shop that does only jeep customizations. He mentioned two things – lots of people that go up to 33” then want to go up to 35” afterwards and lots of people that get a short arm end up getting the long arm upgrade afterwards. So it sounds like if you are going to go through the trouble of a lift and bigger tires, might as well take the direct route to a long arm with 35’s. Thinking about it makes sense because who want to go with 33’s and then 6 months later be saying ‘damn, should have went with the 35 setup”
 

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See sig, didnt go too tall withthe lift but clear the tires just fine. 35's and lovin em everyday, its my DD and Ive got the stock gears, lookin at about 265-280 per tank. only downside I see to keepin the stock gears are, Acceleration (thats OK I'm not draggin it nor am I tryin to smoke the tires), a litte faster in 4 Low, Also OK, to me it feels just about right, i felt that the stock setup was a little bit too slow, found myself in 3rd or 4th most of the time. JM2C
 
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