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Getting a 5.5 long arm. How big of a tire can I suff in it with clearance?
 
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35"'s... With a 1" Body lift maybe a little bigger. I have seen a few TJ's running 37.5" with a flat fender conversion installed.
 
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From my experience of installing these lifts on rubicons, i see no reason why you can't get 37's on it with clearence and the proper bumpstops. The 35's just seem too small on these with that high of a lift. The way of the rockcrawler trail machine is going large tire, lower lift. I suggest to my customers to allow for a 2 to 1 margin of down travel to up travel.
 
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How do you keep the 37.5" from clipping at leats the flairs if not even the fenders? I mean you have to move them pretty far out, unless you limit the steering stops by then it seems 37.5"'s would definetly clip the flairs and/or metal up there.

2 to 1 down -vs- up huh????

So what would a typical length of bump stop be for 37.5"'s on a TJ??

The flatty conversions seem about the only way to go there.

Comments / suggestions very welcome, I had intended on 37.5"'s when my current 35" MT/R's wear out. I do worry about some possible axel damage as well with that size. Although with the beating I have put on them with the 35"'s and nothing broken yet, it may very well be ok to run those 37.5"'s on there after all.

The way the Wrangler Rubicon is selling, I would expect some of the larger manufactures to be comming out with specific products for the rather cheesy D44 front we have on our Rubicons. 37.5"'s have got to be pushing our front D44's to the limit or beyond even.
 

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U can fit 35s without a Body lift on a 5.5
with a BL you can fit 37s

the extended bumpstops that come with this kit will prevent the tires from hitting the flares

5.5 LA & 1" BL with 33s


5.5 LA & 1" BL with 35s


Plenty of room to spare for 37s.
Here is some examples of stuff and not hitting anything.
Please note the STOCK flares, not extended ones.


 
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Those pics are with 35"'s right?? Your say'n that 37"'s will still miss and stuff into your fender wells as the 35"'s are?

I dunno, at stuff it looks close already on your setup...

I am similarly sized and stuff'd with 35"'s, I guess I will find out when my 35" MT/R's wear out.. lol

You going to 37"'s too eventually?
 

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If you look at my pics, you should be able to see that at that flex, the tire is barely under the flare.
I easily have another 2" of uptravel before anything is hit.
If wider flares were put on that actually cover the width of the tire when it is sitting level, there would be no chance of the tire hitting the side of the flare before it got under the flare.

TJ-Rubi already has 37s on his with 1"bl and the 5.5 kit and is not having any problems.

I am staying with 35s. I do not think the axle, axle housings and control arms are strong enough to support 37s.
Mine is a Daily driver as well, and 35s are already pushing it.
 
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If I do it, I would hope to be able to beef up the axel strength some before or at the same time I actually do it.

I still got quite a while before I wear out my current MT/R's, so I got lots of time to reconsider too.. lol


Thanks for all the great info on it as always.

I'm gonna go try to find some pics of TJ-Rubi's setup as well. I had not realized he was running the 37"'s...
 
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Neverman?? Is he a member here??? I couldn't find any posts on a seach....


Well, if I can do the 37"'s then I would have made all the right choices of lift -vs- available cash for sure...

Those Swampers sure look cool on TJ-Rubi's Jeep!!!!!!
 

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It is
Nerveman not Neverman

and now that u mention it, I am not sure if he has posted here.
He has posted on JU quite alot.
 
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in the shop currently i have 2 rubi's getting superchargers installed. One is on a 3" Teraflex lift with 1" body lift, and the other is on a 4" Rubicon Express Short arm plus 1" body Lift. Both vehicles are running the 315 MTR's. The shorter one has the stock Rubi Wheels. The bumpstops are set perfect for the shorter one to flex, and stay out of the flares.

in an earlier post i made on this topic, I stated a 2 to 1 margin in down vs. up travel. I like to set my customers vehicles up with 4 inches of up travel to 8 inches of down travel, thus the 2 to 1 ratio we use 9012's on the front and 9010's on the rear for 4" lifts. This will also work on the 5" lifts. Proper bumpstops are the key to the whole system working properly to allow, especially longarms to be able to travel downward far enough to make them worthwhile. Basic rule of thought, keep it as low as possible, fit or stuff as big a tire as possible.
 
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Thanks for the additional comments....

I get what I would call perfect stuff now with the 315/75R/16's I am running....

I will re-address this when these wear out....


One more note of caution... Do Not Trust Goodyear tire centers... or at least the one on Quail and Colfax here in the Denver Metro area..

My simple rotation was nothing short of a nightmare all the way around...

1st. They told me they would get me right in and out, as I called right before I went over there. ( 2 hours of actual wait time)
2nd. They laft my Spare tire wheel lock on the spare, after driving it considerable distance on the hi-way even, when back at work, I went out for a smoke, and there it was thankfully still on the spare lug.
3rd. I had some stuff for my rear swing away bumper in the same bag as the wheel lock, they did not even put it back in my vehicle.
4th I specificaly told them to set all tires to 30 psi, my Jeep felt really funny, so at work today, I decided to get out the gauge, the new un-used spare was at 32psi, the rest were at 26psi and below!!!!
5th They told me the total, and then when I went to pay it was like $30 higher than what I was quoted.

I called and complained to the so-called svc manager, he was a total jerk and I told him I would never be back, and that I would make sure, nobody else I knew or came in contact with would either.....
 
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