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Hey guys, I just installed my Rokmen Strykers and I'm ready to start thinking about my next mod. I'm getting to the point where the mods are expensive so it takes me longer to save for them. So far, I have not regretted a mod and I want to keep that streak going. Here is my build so far; 3" Full traction lift, Alloy chromoly shafts front and rear w/CTM U-Joints, Currie heavy duty steering, Rokmen steering skid, gas tank skid, rockers and strykers, Rockhard rear bumper w/tire carrier, Warn 8274, rhino line interior, 35" Toyo MT's w/Spidertrax spacers, Mac CAI, Rokmen adjustable control arms, Lightforce lights on windshield and probably some other nick-nacks. Here is what I'm thinking for next mod: 1) Rokmen Tummy Tuck; 2) re-gear with 4.88 gears; 3) Genright tube fenders; 4) Rockhard cage. I'm leaning towards the tummy tuck, and I would definitely need Eric's help with the install, but I would like to know what you guys think. I have always used this place for my ideas and have not regretted the build so far, so I trust your opinion's, thanks.

Todd
 

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CAGE!!! :D I have a Rockhard cage, best mod I have ever done. Safety Safety!
 

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Damn, that was quick. I like your thinking because I'm always out with my daughters and safety is a priority! I forgot I also have JKS mml & 1.25" body lift. Keep em coming!

Todd
 

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Money doesn't appear to be extremely tight in your build and it does sound like a good one. You do sound like you will need to sign up for weightwatchers shortly. I'd be looking at aluminum after the safety issue is cured with the cage. Don't want to start a debate with this crew but, that is just my 2 cents.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Money is very tight, I don't mind getting the best, in my opinion, but I save for it. I have been very lucky in that I have tried to think ahead of all my mods and so far has not regretted anything. You are right, my girl is a heavy pig; I guess just nature of the beast. I try to think of the weak link and address it in my garage, rather than on the trail. Ask Eric, I'll talk about something and than it might be more than a couple years before I pull the trigger. I appreciate everybody's ideas and opinions, thats where I get my inspiration. I love seeing all of the different build ideas and what people value. Don't worry about offending me, I'm looking for all perspectives!

Todd
 

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If you want the best: Welded full cage, tummy tuck, re-gear, beadlocks..in that order. Or stop right after the cage, and spend money to take your girls wheelin!
 

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Good choice. I'm thinking of ditching my bolt in cage for a full weld in...a lot of people like to save the money and do a bolt in..I was one of them. But everyday I realize that I should have spent the extra bucks for a full weld in.
 

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If you have 35" tires with the factory 4.11 gears, you are seriously ready for re-gearing. I just re-geared from 4.11 to 4.88 and I have 33" tires - performance and fuel mileage was awful with the 4.11s.
 

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blkrubi05 said:
Good choice. I'm thinking of ditching my bolt in cage for a full weld in...a lot of people like to save the money and do a bolt in..I was one of them. But everyday I realize that I should have spent the extra bucks for a full weld in.
True that.. Only reason I sprang for a bolt in was I got a heckuva deal in Moab at the vendor show. But then again, your cage is only as strong as the person welding... And also, if you do plan on going long arm, don't waste the money on a short arm lift. You'll kick yourself. I wheeled on 33's, 1.25" Bl, 1" MML and tummy tuck for 3 years while I saved the money for a long arm kit. It truly makes you a better driver in the long run.. Anyone else agree?
 

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Disagree
 

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rubitx said:
How can you disagree with how much a stock Rubi can do without many mods? I've watched guys open n open go places they should have never got to, it was because of their driver skills.
 

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alpine said:
don't waste the money on a short arm lift.
I may have misunderstood your message, but I disagree with where you state "don't waste money on a short arm lift". I run an aftermarket short arm build and, although I once wanted an "infamous long arm" build, wouldn't do it today. My Jeep is a daily driver and its been from Moab to Clayton. I am yet to run a bypass where a long arm would have made the obstacle. No, I don't wheel with inexperienced drivers, yet very competent drivers. We pick good lines and crawl away. Matter of fact, we've made it up some obstacles long arms did not.

If I misunderstood your statement, please explain.
 

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johncanfield said:
If you have 35" tires with the factory 4.11 gears, you are seriously ready for re-gearing. I just re-geared from 4.11 to 4.88 and I have 33" tires - performance and fuel mileage was awful with the 4.11s.
It all depends on manual/auto, DD or not, and terrain usually driven on. I drove my 6spd/35s/4.11 for 4 yrs, no probs..as a DD. Nothing was awful, and my jeep is heavy.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hey guys, thanks for all of the replies. I'm thinking about the Genright cage. Gears would be nice, but I just kick it out of overdrive and it does fine on the highway. It's fairly flat around Kansas and I figure it's not a Dodge Viper so I don't mind. Thanks again for all of the ideas, I really appreciate it!

Todd
 

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If you are looking at the GenRight cage check out Mouse's cage build. Lots of good pics to look at.
 

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I would probably go for the regear, but I don't have kids soooo. Cage or gears, either way is a good choice! If you crawl a lot of rocks, and have a stick, I think 35s and 4.10s isn't very good. Maybe its better since you have auto.
 

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rubitx said:
alpine said:
don't waste the money on a short arm lift.
I may have misunderstood your message, but I disagree with where you state "don't waste money on a short arm lift". I run an aftermarket short arm build and, although I once wanted an "infamous long arm" build, wouldn't do it today. My Jeep is a daily driver and its been from Moab to Clayton. I am yet to run a bypass where a long arm would have made the obstacle. No, I don't wheel with inexperienced drivers, yet very competent drivers. We pick good lines and crawl away. Matter of fact, we've made it up some obstacles long arms did not.

If I misunderstood your statement, please explain.

Sorry, Let me clarify it then. As in a 2" Budget Boost and all the little things required to make it work.

Tummy Tuck, motor mount lift, sometimes adjustable track bars (depending on lift)body lift, bar pin eliminators, Rear driveshaft, rear adjustable uppers and longer shocks. I myself did the first set up described, and I wasted a lot of money and not really that much better offroad.

If I had to do it all over, I would have started with a cage, body armor,winch, lift and tires,gears last.
 

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No one is going to mention some upgraded brakes huh.. Well I'll be that person.

Since you mentioned cage everyone will bandwagon it, take that for what its worth you see it on every forum.

If you realistically wheel your jeep to the point where a cage is an absolute must then by all means that's what you should do, but if it's your weekend warrior and DD then it probably isn't necessary.


I'd go for the TT, no point in lifting a jeep and dropping the tcase skid, as ground clearance says the same in the center which is where you usually get hung up.

From the stand point of making your jeep fun to drive again, regear it, I know someone on here will tell you that 4.11s with 35s ins't bad, they're either lying, don't hardly drive their jeep on the street, or have a warped sense of reality. My stock Rubi with 4.11s is slow let alone having a lifted one with bigger tires. At this point, I'll mention brakes again, Jeeps are not exactly known to have great brakes and I can assure you a panic stop or two will definitely have you thinking twice about some upgraded brakes.

Tirade off :lildevil:
 
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