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Thought I would share a few pictures and comments from the install of a Genright Fastback rollcage in my jeep (even though I'm still not finished!).

The jeep stripped and ready to begin. Note here I did not remove the last piece of carpeting that my jeep has - the front section. Even though I tried to protect it, it now looks like it has a million cigarette burns. I may end up changing it out with new carpeting or something else that provides some heat protection.

 

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Here is the front section of the cage. A better way to install it (than mine) would be to paint the stanchions (A-pillar, next to dash), prior to any welding. Just keep the top where the welding occurs raw metal. In my method, painting after install is a bear! (see below).



Note, I did all the work in my garage with a Lincoln 175 (220volt) mig welder. I used almost a whole bottle of gas and 2 pounds of wire. It was very difficult getting long welds without removing the cage to finish welding it. Consequently, some of the welds are not as pretty as they could be, but I got great penetration and feel safe.



Rear section with optional harness bar and B-pillar "X".

Here are a couple of custom gussets and a tab for my LED dome light.

 

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Discussion Starter #3
More gussets and an overall view:



Painting (what a pain!):



I used silver "hammered" paint. Its difficult for a smooth finish since this gives off so much overspray. Oh-well, it looks good anyways, even if it feels a bit rough.

I had previsous built frame tie-ins for the Rockhard cage. These bolt right up to the Genright A-pillar stanchions, and tie in the cage without extra work. The B-pillar frame tie-in will be a future project, and the looks of things, it will take some thought to get it to work. My jeep has higher-than-stock body mounts very close to the B-pillar bolts.
 

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General notes:

I had very little grinding to do - a real quality product from Genright. Most of my grinding came on the "X" bar to fit to the top of the B-pillar.

Start by bolting in the A-pillar stanchions, B-pillar, and C-pillar plates. Then you can fit things and start tack welding.

Take your time and trial fit everything before final weld. For example, I test fir the seats about 3 times - once for the initial B-pillar placement, then harness bar, and again with the "X" bar. I needed to make sure the seat move rear-ward far enough.

Trial fit the doors for the A-pillar stanchion fitment - its tight.

I bolted the windshield brackets to the windshield then folded to the cage and made my tack weld to the cage to make sure the windshield fits tightly (seals to door and cowl).

If you have weld slag burn through your pants and into your crotch, it makes for an exciting moment (not in a good way) - and when you finish it off by hitting your head on the bars overhead, you will learn to be more careful. If you run into the house and drop your pants to see it theres any damage, don't let anyone see you - they may laugh.

I used 1/4 solid round stock to make harness retainers on the harness bar. A coule of 45* bends at the end and 7" long should help retain the harnesses. No need to buy anything expensive here.

Mask the WHOLE jeep off when you paint. When I started, I didn't. Now I have a lot of overspray to clean up!

I used my leather welding chaps to protect the jeep interior (dash, center console, etc.), which resulted in my lower extremities being more vulnerable (see comment above).
 

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Mouse said:
If you have weld slag burn through your pants and into your crotch, it makes for an exciting moment (not in a good way) - and when you finish it off by hitting your head on the bars overhead, you will learn to be more careful. If you run into the house and drop your pants to see it theres any damage, don't let anyone see you - they may laugh.
:rotflmao: :rotflmao: :rotflmao:

Sorry Man, not laughing at you, but with you. Only because I did the SAME damn thing (a few times actually... :oops: ) while building mine. In addition to the ruined pants and pride, my seats are full of holes too. :laugh:

Question though-as you used the stanchions rather than through the dash, why not just pull the entire cage and paint it outside the rig then put it back in? I did that on my LJ's cage and it worked quite well.

Nice work on the X brace/harness setup. I eventually need to do that too, just haven't got to it yet. I think when I do, I want to tie some seat brackes in with it and make it more permant. Fold and tumble won't be needed at that point as you really couldn't crawl through the X very easily anyway...

Great Job!!!

Best of Luck,

Mike
 

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[quote='05TJLWBRUBY]
Mouse said:
If you have weld slag burn through your pants and into your crotch, it makes for an exciting moment (not in a good way) - and when you finish it off by hitting your head on the bars overhead, you will learn to be more careful. If you run into the house and drop your pants to see it theres any damage, don't let anyone see you - they may laugh.
:rotflmao: :rotflmao: :rotflmao:

Sorry Man, not laughing at you, but with you. Only because I did the SAME damn thing (a few times actually... :oops: ) while building mine. In addition to the ruined pants and pride, my seats are full of holes too. :laugh:

Question though-as you used the stanchions rather than through the dash, why not just pull the entire cage and paint it outside the rig then put it back in? I did that on my LJ's cage and it worked quite well.

Nice work on the X brace/harness setup. I eventually need to do that too, just haven't got to it yet. I think when I do, I want to tie some seat brackes in with it and make it more permant. Fold and tumble won't be needed at that point as you really couldn't crawl through the X very easily anyway...

Great Job!!!

Best of Luck,

Mike[/quote]





Just keep a clean oil drain pan with about 4" of water in it. If you feel the burn just take a seat! :lildevil: Presoaking helps also.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
[quote="'05TJLWBRUBY

Question though-as you used the stanchions rather than through the dash, why not just pull the entire cage and paint it outside the rig then put it back in? I did that on my LJ's cage and it worked quite well.

Mike[/quote]

I just don't have enough time/neighbors to do it, and I'm stubborn. In the painting picture, if you look closely, you'll see the cage is about 10 inches off the jeep. I'm able to lift it up pretty far with 2x4s by myself and get it painted. I did this to get the lower parts welded as well.

Thanks for the comments. In my book the B-pillar has to be the strongest part of a cage to protect the occupants - thats why I've added all I could to it. Fortunately my jeep's been a two-seater for awhile now.
 

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nice i'm doing the same cage in a week do you have a pic of the front with the wind skreen down?
nice job thanks for the right up
 

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Murphy, heres the only one I have right now. Let me know if you need anything else:



I also welded in some tabs on the top bar near the rear of the cage for the bikini straps. I tried fitting the door surrounds, they will require some trimming to fit around the front A-pillar gussets. If I run them, I will clamp them on, not drill through the tube, like the stock cage.
 

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Curious why no lower C pillar cross bar, and any plans to put a backing plate on the rear of the sanctions?

I am progressing my build further and further. I really think I'm going to cut my A pillars off and go through dash with tube. Any reason you didn't go with a sniper fab or poly cage that goes through the dash with tube? Other than the A pillars I think it turned out phenomenal. Hopefully it stays "for looks" and never gets tested.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
sleepsontoilet said:
Curious why no lower C pillar cross bar, and any plans to put a backing plate on the rear of the sanctions?

I am progressing my build further and further. I really think I'm going to cut my A pillars off and go through dash with tube. Any reason you didn't go with a sniper fab or poly cage that goes through the dash with tube? Other than the A pillars I think it turned out phenomenal. Hopefully it stays "for looks" and never gets tested.
I thought of some sort of a backing plate to reinforce the A-pillar stanchions, but have not come up with a design yet. For now I'm using some 3 inch long solid stock with threaded holes to hold the stanchions to the cowl/dash area. I want to tie both the B, and C-pillars into the frame. I am contemplating re-doing my rear CO mounts to allow for a longer shock and to lower the height an inch or so. Once I'm done with that, I can tie the C-pillar in. The B-pillar is a bit more complicated (I think) by just looking at it. In my mind the priority of the frame tie-ins are B first, then the C. I was very happy my A-pillar brackets bolted right up!

I didn't do the C-pillar crossbar to keep access to the rear (from the rear) easy. It will be easy to add in the future is I want to run it. I'm not sure how much strength that will add to the overall rigidity of the cage. Any thoughts?

I like the tube-through-the-dash design better as well, but the Genright guys pointed out how their stanchions are simpler design than most. They definitely appear stronger than the Rockhard units. Hopefully simplicity equates to strength. Poly only lists a partial kit now - no full TJ kit and I don't see a full kit from Sniper Fab. The biggest selling point for the Genright cage was the extra B-pillar support (X) that was available. While I'm sure others could provide it, I don't see anyone advertising it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Paint is done, but now I have A LOT of cleaning and installing to finish it up.

 

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I saw SFW on PBB a year ago for just shy if a grand, just like poly. I called and he said they make them as ordered but don't list them.

Yes it adds alot of structural stability. Same as the dash bar or quality harness bar would. They don't all sell them with the kits as you pointed out. Guess due to the inconvenience they incur. But most full on custom cages come with them. I'm doing it in theory of load sharing on a hard rear sideways flop/roll. When climbing I stood the rear straight up and landed on the tire carrier breaking the 1 1/16" trailer spindle. If it would have continued over and more towards one side (meaning driver or passenger not straight over) the bar in my mind would distribute the shock throughout the cage more evenly and possibly be less room for failure. Maybe I'm over thinking it.

I do give you props. It's a darn nice cage and should be one of the first mods done. Came out nice!! :D
 

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That came out great Mouse-nice work!

I had the same thoughts on the stanchion deals when I built mine but as it was brand new off the lot, my wife said NO WAY was I cutting a brand new dash... So, I built mine from some 3/16" plate and traced the dash as close as I could, keeping all factory functions able to still work-including the floor drain. What I did at the bottom was make the feet a wider footprint, then made a lower plate that is roughly 13" long which bolts through the floor and through my sliders in 3 locations for strength. Figured this was stronger/better idea that the single one bolt through the floor drain. It's seemed to work well. The other thing I did on the top plate for the dash pillars where it comes over the top of the dash and where the windshield tubes meet at on the flat plate-on the UNDER side of that top plate, as the dash is rounded on two sides, I welded in some 3/16" plate at roughly a 45 degree angle running both across the front side and the outside edges of the top plate where it's welded on the main pillar. What that does is take the roughly 3" wide top plate (or whatever it is) and with the angled plate underneath, transer load and strengthen the pillar top overall. (in theory anyway) The round tube when welded on then overhangs both of my angled pieces (underneath) theoretically for more strength-which you CAN'T see unless you pull it and flip it upside down. This would be an afterthought of course, but was another way to strengthen the setup. In my mind anyway. Works great.

Also noticed there was limited holes/cut outs in your pillars-good idea. I left mine solid and they've been fine. While I've never ROLLED my rig, it's been on two wheels MANY times in the timber and I frequently use it as a pivot of sorts like my slider bars and stryker rails. It's held up great with nothing more than scratched paint. I'd like to add the X and harness bar at a later date, but for now, it's worked well. Yours should be extremely stout and hold up very well just judging by what I've done with mine. Again, great job!!!

Best of Luck,

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for the kind words on the install, the Genright quality made it an easier install.

I do not plan on drilling any holes into the tubing. When I try to fit the door surrounds, I envision using a large hose clamp to hold it to the overhead bar. I'll have to cut some slots into the surrounds. The clamps won't be able to stop the surrounds from twisting though. But, I'll try it to see if this is a viable option with a bikini to help keep out rain.
 

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If it works, I'd like to see how you did it. I don't have a soft top for my LJ now, but would love to have one. I replaced all my front stuff with DOM so the factory bars were removed, and consequently, my DOM tubes have NO holes in them. Wasn't thrilled about putting any in there either. I'd thought about welding tabs to the tube if/when I find a good LJ soft top complete for a steal, but obviously haven't done it yet. The tube clamp thing is a good idea-will be interesting to see what you come up with.

Best of Luck,

Mike
 

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Lookin great Mouse, I was looking into the same kit not to long ago. Really like the lines of the fast back version
 

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NICE!!! Love Gen-Right stuff! Great fit and finish, and well designed. I was leaning towards the "sport cage" reinforcement as opposed to the full cage, but that kinda makes me re-think things.

Great job!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'll have it driveable today, so later I can post up pics with the new harnesses installed as well.
 

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Its time to wrap this thread up.

Heres a close up of the harnesses. My wife picked the color and extra padding. I'm glad she chose well, they are comfortable!



Heres one with the bikini on. It fits nice and tight except above the doors. When I get around to working on the door surrounds, that should change.

 
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