My 03 takes a special coolant (HOAT?). Do you have the owners manual? Sometimes they can be a big help. If not they're easy to find online at a reasonable price. Also mine has sealed U-Joints that don't require greasing. I remember the ones on my CJ5 being a PITA though.
General Maintenance
My Jeep just turned 5 years old a couple months ago. It only has 19,500 on the odometer. I have off a couple days next month and I was going to do the following:
My annual engine oil change
Bleed/flush the brake fluid with new
Drain and flush the power steering fluid
Drain and flush the coolant.
The TC, Trans, and differentials are okay as I changed those fluids just a couple years ago.
Any advice on what antifreeze/ steering/brake fluids to buy?
What else do l need to do? U-Joints?
My annual engine oil change
Bleed/flush the brake fluid with new
Drain and flush the power steering fluid
Drain and flush the coolant.
The TC, Trans, and differentials are okay as I changed those fluids just a couple years ago.
Any advice on what antifreeze/ steering/brake fluids to buy?
What else do l need to do? U-Joints?
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
bob1340 said:Any advice on what antifreeze/ steering/brake fluids to buy?
What else do l need to do? U-Joints?
I would not change the antifreeze, steering or brake fluid. Just keep it topped off. The ujoints I would just grease unless there is a vibration or runout.
As per the DCX:
Coolant- 50/50 mix Mopar® Antifreeze/Coolant (MS-9769) (the orange color, not the green)
Ethylene-glycol base coolant with organic corrosive inhibitors (Hybrid Organic Additive Technology – HOAT)
Steering- Mopar ATF+4
Brake- DOT3 (Double check slave cylinder lid)
gregert12 said:bob1340 said:Any advice on what antifreeze/ steering/brake fluids to buy?
What else do l need to do? U-Joints?
I would not change the antifreeze, steering or brake fluid. Just keep it topped off. The ujoints I would just grease unless there is a vibration or runout.quote]
Just out of curiousity, why do you recommend not changing?
Ditto, why would this be? I am looking at 5 year old brake, steering, and coolant fluids.gregert12 said:I would not change the antifreeze, steering or brake fluid. Just keep it topped off. The ujoints I would just grease unless there is a vibration or runout.
I have the stock u-joints which don't have zerks. I may pull the shafts and check them out
Looks like Peak and Valvoline sells a HOAT mix or straight stuff.gregert12 said:As per the DCX:
Coolant- 50/50 mix Mopar® Antifreeze/Coolant (MS-9769) (the orange color, not the green)
Ethylene-glycol base coolant with organic corrosive inhibitors (Hybrid Organic Additive Technology – HOAT)
Steering- Mopar ATF+4
Brake- DOT3 (Double check slave cylinder lid)
BLACK RUBI said:Just out of curiousity, why do you recommend not changing?gregert12 said:bob1340 said:Any advice on what antifreeze/ steering/brake fluids to buy?
What else do l need to do? U-Joints?
I would not change the antifreeze, steering or brake fluid. Just keep it topped off. The ujoints I would just grease unless there is a vibration or runout.quote]
Instead of doing a complete brake fluid overhaul, you really only need to flush the brake calipers for a few quick pumps to remove any dirt or buildup that made it past the caliper's seals.
For the coolant, it is "lifetime" rated which means 100k miles/5year (can easily last double that as per DoctorD) and if you are keeping in the G05 rating and HOAT just top off what you spilled on the trail. If you are completely changing the fluid type, then you will need to flush out the old. They do not mix very well.
edit- see this post by DoctorD http://www.rubiconownersforum.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?p=641213#p641213
On power steering fluid, you can easily last 80k miles, just keep an eye on the fluid's color and if it becomes dark from the amber/pink, change it.
Just my point of view but I see no reason why not change the brake fluid or coolant after 5 yrs.
I know I can be hard on my brakes. I recently took the Rubi to a known reputable local place and had them flush it and replace the fluid. I guess it looked pretty bad because he asked me to come back to the Jeep and they showed me the fluid. They asked when in the hec was the last time I changed my brake fluid. Easy for them. They hooked up the machine and no pumping of the brakes which I read is no longer the recommended method.
I got a coupon from a Jeep dealership for a coolant flush. They flushed and pressure checked my coolant system pretty darn cheap.
Why didn't I do it myself? I didn't know how to dispose of the brake fluid or coolant.
Is it overkill? I have no idea. Should the installed coolant last a life time? No idea. My 06 Owners Manual, I believe page 296, also says the transfer case fluid that was installed at the factory should last for the lifetime of the vehicle. I know we all change that fluid.
I know I can be hard on my brakes. I recently took the Rubi to a known reputable local place and had them flush it and replace the fluid. I guess it looked pretty bad because he asked me to come back to the Jeep and they showed me the fluid. They asked when in the hec was the last time I changed my brake fluid. Easy for them. They hooked up the machine and no pumping of the brakes which I read is no longer the recommended method.
I got a coupon from a Jeep dealership for a coolant flush. They flushed and pressure checked my coolant system pretty darn cheap.
Why didn't I do it myself? I didn't know how to dispose of the brake fluid or coolant.
Is it overkill? I have no idea. Should the installed coolant last a life time? No idea. My 06 Owners Manual, I believe page 296, also says the transfer case fluid that was installed at the factory should last for the lifetime of the vehicle. I know we all change that fluid.
Okay, I can go with that. I have 5 years on all the fluids. I have never added any coolant believe it or not. The tank is a little low now so I'll pick up a 50/50 jug of the correct stuff.gregert12 said:Instead of doing a complete brake fluid overhaul, you really only need to flush the brake calipers for a few quick pumps to remove any dirt or buildup that made it past the caliper's seals.
For the coolant, it is "lifetime" rated which means 100k miles/5year (can easily last double that as per DoctorD) and if you are keeping in the G05 rating and HOAT just top off what you spilled on the trail. If you are completely changing the fluid type, then you will need to flush out the old. They do not mix very well.
On power steering fluid, you can easily last 80k miles, just keep an eye on the fluid's color and if it becomes dark from the amber/pink, change it.
I'll looky see in the master cylinder at what the juice looks like. If it ain't perfect clean I'll swap it out. Ditto with the steering.
Brake fluid is a piece of cake to swap out, especially with someone pumping the brakes and filling the master cylinder during the process. You can do all four wheels in about 15 mins or so. I see no reason why you shouldn't change it out completely. Even if the fluid looks clean, it still absorbs water over time which reduces braking effectiveness.
Yup, I have done that many times. Wife pours the fluid, I operate the bucket and wrench, and you get a kid to pump. One, two, three-hold! LOL Wish I had a power bleeder.sizemic1 said:Brake fluid is a piece of cake to swap out, especially with someone pumping the brakes and filling the master cylinder during the process. You can do all four wheels in about 15 mins or so. I see no reason why you shouldn't change it out completely. Even if the fluid looks clean, it still absorbs water over time which reduces braking effectiveness.
I think 5 years is a good number for brake drainage. That fluid is fairly cheap.
I'm all for changing brake fluid! I see Greg's point, but it is a personal preference of mine to flush it all out and put new in. And as you said, it's cheap fluid. I know many of us have good luck with the Valvoline synthetic brake fluid and it will mix with whatever residual fluid is left. Just don't get it on the paint.
Much can be said also about steering IMHO. That is a fluid that gets real hot, gets neglected, and abused. BUT changing it out is messy and some what a PITA. You'll have to undo both lines at the steering box to drain, and when finished draining and refill you will have to put the front up on blocks/stands to purge the air from the system after it is refilled with the jeep running and turing the steering wheel lock to lock slowly. It isn't hard, it is messy, and it is time consuming. But it is a very good thing to do IMO. Personally I like Royal Purple, it is a synthetic formula, works great for our systems and even in hydro assist/full hydro systems. PSC recommends it and has great luck with it. Several on here as well.
Antifreeze... Not seen Doc's thread till now. Very interesting. I have been changing mine out every five years or for any other reason that involved a complete coolant drain. The main reason for doing other than to replinish the coolant and the chemicals it contains is to eliminate/expell as much old grime, rust, etc out of the system as possible so nothing gets clogged. The coolant system is often more full of junk than you think due to chemical reaction, deterioration, and electrolysis.
Much can be said also about steering IMHO. That is a fluid that gets real hot, gets neglected, and abused. BUT changing it out is messy and some what a PITA. You'll have to undo both lines at the steering box to drain, and when finished draining and refill you will have to put the front up on blocks/stands to purge the air from the system after it is refilled with the jeep running and turing the steering wheel lock to lock slowly. It isn't hard, it is messy, and it is time consuming. But it is a very good thing to do IMO. Personally I like Royal Purple, it is a synthetic formula, works great for our systems and even in hydro assist/full hydro systems. PSC recommends it and has great luck with it. Several on here as well.
Antifreeze... Not seen Doc's thread till now. Very interesting. I have been changing mine out every five years or for any other reason that involved a complete coolant drain. The main reason for doing other than to replinish the coolant and the chemicals it contains is to eliminate/expell as much old grime, rust, etc out of the system as possible so nothing gets clogged. The coolant system is often more full of junk than you think due to chemical reaction, deterioration, and electrolysis.
I would change the fluids especially with the low mileage and
I'll guess that your rig sits around and/or goes short distances.
I believe that can reduce the service life of the fluids. Changing
is cheap insurance.
Also, don't forget to suck the farts out of the seats, they build
up in there, and well, five years is a lot of ...
I'll guess that your rig sits around and/or goes short distances.
I believe that can reduce the service life of the fluids. Changing
is cheap insurance.
Also, don't forget to suck the farts out of the seats, they build
up in there, and well, five years is a lot of ...
Wow, lots of differing opinions here. I have to agree with Mario above, and a few others. I change my brake fluid yearly, so naturally I'd recommend changing that out. You can't tell by color or any other visual whether it's good or bad. It's cheap, so change it. Like you said, wifey poo on the pedal with a book, beverage or something to keep her happy and you underneath with the bucket and wrench. On the steering-I hate to admit but I've only changed mine twice in my 5 years and 75K. Once because I did and once because my factory line wore a hole in it and I had to. I need to change it again as it's been a few years and steering works quite hard regardless, and moreso off-road. ATF +4 for that. On the coolant, I've replace mine twice with factory Mopar HOAT. Once because I felt like it and once because my fan clutch failed and dealer did it for me. It's a 5 year fluid though so for you-yes, I'd do it. For me, I'll wait one more year then do it.
Other fluids-you mentioned a couple years ago changing TC, Tranny, diffs. I'd recommend changing those as well, even with such little mileage. Wheeling is hard on stuff and fluids are cheap insurance.
On the axle joints-believe it or not but with the hard use I've done on my rig and the 75K miles on it now, I am STILL on the factory shafts. I recently tore them apart though to change joints and was glad I did-they showed signs of excessive heat and were bone dry, in my mind-ready to take a dump at any moment. I'd swap them out too just for giggles so you know it's done and won't have to worry for another 5 years. Standard spicer 760's is what I put back in and what I'd recommend. They're cheap, work well, and last. That should about cover it. Just my opinion-take it for what it's worth.
Best of Luck,
Mike
Other fluids-you mentioned a couple years ago changing TC, Tranny, diffs. I'd recommend changing those as well, even with such little mileage. Wheeling is hard on stuff and fluids are cheap insurance.
On the axle joints-believe it or not but with the hard use I've done on my rig and the 75K miles on it now, I am STILL on the factory shafts. I recently tore them apart though to change joints and was glad I did-they showed signs of excessive heat and were bone dry, in my mind-ready to take a dump at any moment. I'd swap them out too just for giggles so you know it's done and won't have to worry for another 5 years. Standard spicer 760's is what I put back in and what I'd recommend. They're cheap, work well, and last. That should about cover it. Just my opinion-take it for what it's worth.
Best of Luck,
Mike
Dude, that is added cushion and mine don't smell!mariodesmo said:Also, don't forget to suck the farts out of the seats, they build
up in there, and well, five years is a lot of ...
[quote='05TJLWBRUBY]Wow, lots of differing opinions here. I have to agree with Mario above, and a few others.
Other fluids-you mentioned a couple years ago changing TC, Tranny, diffs. I'd recommend changing those as well, even with such little mileage. Wheeling is hard on stuff and fluids are cheap insurance.
On the axle joints-believe it or not but with the hard use I've done on my rig and the 75K miles on it now, I am STILL on the factory shafts. I recently tore them apart though to change joints and was glad I did-they showed signs of excessive heat and were bone dry, in my mind-ready to take a dump at any moment. I'd swap them out too just for giggles so you know it's done and won't have to worry for another 5 years. Standard spicer 760's is what I put back in and what I'd recommend. They're cheap, work well, and last.
Best of Luck,
Mike[/quote]
Thanks Mike. I'll have 3-4 days to do this between Christmas and New Years. I'll start buying stuff now. What is funny is, I have been to 3 different places and none of them have a air filter for the Jeep of any brand? They all have the smaller MCAI filter that goes inside, but not the stock Jeep filter Weird. So you don't go with grease zerks in the driveline?
Brake fluid should be changed. When I've done it my tow rig, I was amazed at how much better it stopped after having it done.
viewtopic.php?f=23&t=60469&hilit=brake+fluid
viewtopic.php?f=23&t=60469&hilit=brake+fluid
Wow, I think I'm still stuck on removing the built up farts from the seats... :rotflmao:
No, I'm still running the factory driveshafts with no grease zerks in the joints. Granted my shafts have been rebuilt a time or two but used all factory parts.
Maybe I misunderstood you-did you mean driveshaft joints, or axle joints? No to both. My front axle shafts are still stock and I recently replaced the joints in there. No, they don't have zerks either and standard spicer 760s went back in.
Best of Luck,
Mike
No, I'm still running the factory driveshafts with no grease zerks in the joints. Granted my shafts have been rebuilt a time or two but used all factory parts.
Maybe I misunderstood you-did you mean driveshaft joints, or axle joints? No to both. My front axle shafts are still stock and I recently replaced the joints in there. No, they don't have zerks either and standard spicer 760s went back in.
Best of Luck,
Mike
Now, here's a question I have never got a definitive answer to. I have done searches and get loads of different info as well.
I fully intend to get all my junk together before I start working on it. I have the filters, oils, coolant, brake fluid but I am confused with getting u joints. I want Spicers and I am a grease zero kind of gut. It looks like the X1203 joints on the front, but it also looks like the pinion front joint is a combo 1310/1330 joint on some Jeeps.
I have also heard the LJ uses a different rear pinion side joint than a TJ. Very confusing to me.
I fully intend to get all my junk together before I start working on it. I have the filters, oils, coolant, brake fluid but I am confused with getting u joints. I want Spicers and I am a grease zero kind of gut. It looks like the X1203 joints on the front, but it also looks like the pinion front joint is a combo 1310/1330 joint on some Jeeps.
I have also heard the LJ uses a different rear pinion side joint than a TJ. Very confusing to me.
I bet David at Northridge can hook you up with the right parts.bob1340 said:I am confused with getting u joints. I want Spicers and I am a grease zero kind of gut. It looks like the X1203 joints on the front, but it also looks like the pinion front joint is a combo 1310/1330 joint on some Jeeps.
I have also heard the LJ uses a different rear pinion side joint than a TJ. Very confusing to me.
Okay Looks like the Unlimited LJ does use different joints that the TJ.
Front Axle end: 5-793X or 5-212X
Front T/C end: 2 of the 5-790X or 5-213X
The rear shaft uses the same joint front and rear: 5-785X or 5-153X
Wow, there sure is a lot of u-joints out there!
Front Axle end: 5-793X or 5-212X
Front T/C end: 2 of the 5-790X or 5-213X
The rear shaft uses the same joint front and rear: 5-785X or 5-153X
Wow, there sure is a lot of u-joints out there!
CV Repair kit #??
Spicer 211355X ??
Spicer 211355X ??
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
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