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Discussion Starter #1
FYI: Expert Offroad Rock/Step Rails
(original post from JU)

Recently installed a pair of Expert Offroad Rock Rails on the Wrangler. Installation was Simple but Tedious, (22 3/8” holes to drill). Four existing Holes on each side (existing oem step mount) are drilled thru to the other side of the frame. The Rails are then mounted and leveled, marking the rest of the holes to be drilled.

There are no clearance problems on the passenger side but on the driver side you must move the gas/break/air lines on the inside of the frame rail to prevent damage while drilling. On the driver side I fed the bolts thru from the inside of the frame with the nuts and washers on the outside of the frame mounting plates. This left a cleaner surface for the plumbing to secure to (gas/air/break lines).

After tightening, the rails feel like an integral part of the frame, very strong. Besides I’m short and they make great steps! They also protect the side of the jeep from mud spray and debris on the side windows. (leave the spray bottle and squeegee at home)

They have a Rubicon textured finish and measure 2x5” (4” of which stick out the side) and has a large surface area underneath with three mounting posts with 1/4” mounting plates. Usable with High Lift Jack.

This set is made for a 1" body lift but you can also buy for no lift.


 
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I bought them on Ebay from “Expertoffroad” for $219. But I believe his normal price was $250.
 
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I have them too. I have had mine on for about 5 months. Love them. Very stought, and look like they came that way. Excellent design, with it raised to hide the body lift, hides the ugly lift pucks and makes a one inch lift look more stock. Highly recommend.
 

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Hey guys I don't want to be an A-hole but don't you worry about all the clearance you're giving up? I mean you're going to hit all kinds of obsticles that you would normally clear. I would go with something like this - stronger than stock NO drilling 22 holes and has a step as well. The best part is that you keep your clearance. This is the new way of doing it - no more nerf bars.. AEV's brute is a good example. My sliders are like AEV's but cheaper and use factory mounting as well as a sandwich mount to the body mount. Go back to stock by re and re-ing the stock checker..


 
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choices?

The type shown in your pic does have more clearance but a choice has to be made between dispersing the shock of the impact along the bottom on the body tub or the side. If you come down on the tube part of the AEV type, the load is not along the bottom of the tub but along the side of the tub. Side impact may crease the tub. Everything has its pros and cons. The Expertoffroad step rails carry the load along the entire bottom of tub and side impact is against the frame and not the tub. Besides, I picked the “running board type” because it makes a better step for old goats like me and I like the way they looked. With 4" of transfercase hanging out the 1" of extra side clearance isnt important.
 

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Everyone has an opinion I guess. If you want a step that hangs low your type would be best. I do think that it's more than an inch difference though. Every inch counts - otherwise why would we lift our Jeeps. I just don't want to drill 22 holes in my frame either. As with most things Jeep it depends on what type of wheeling you're doing. In this example, clearance under the Jeep is not an issue while clearance on the rocker is. The sliders I showed above took the whole weight of my Landcruiser (note: a hell of a lot heavier than a jeep) and rotated over boulders without damage. In my terrian, that few inches would grab everything in sight, and how much do those boxed steps weigh?


 

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Here you can see how they extend under the body. PS - silver Rubis rock!


 
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