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Discussion Starter #1
I'm running a separate fuse box in the rubi. For rock lights, cb, off road lights, power inverter ect... I want this fuse box to be powered only when key is on. so my question is where can I pull power from and still have it keyed. the box runs up to 6, 30 amp fuses, so I need a good source.
thanx for any help.

rubi will be done this weekend and I'll post pics then.
 

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I would wire the fuse box directly to the battery (or other sufficient power source) and use a big relay to turn everything off when the key is off. You could even wire it with parallel inputs to turn things on with a separate switch (in case your engine dies and you want the extra lights). If you did that you would want to put a diode on the key power side to prevent everthing else from coming on when you flick the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
how?

ok I'm dumb as dirt when it comes to wiring. can you give me more details. this sounds good but how would I go about doing it?
wouldn't matter if engine was running as long as the key was on correct?
 
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Triver525 is right on target with the relay suggestion. I did something similar:

My inverter (500 W) is cabled directly to the battery. It has its own fuses, and I want it to be available whether the ignition is on or off.

I purchased a Painless7 fuseblock (about $40 from Quadratec). It provides three 20A circuits that are always on and four 20A circuits that are switched with the ignition via a relay. This relay only requires a small amount of juice to switch it on. I hooked mine to the back side of the stock fuse block.

I don't know if I will do lights, but, if I did, I would use a separate, Heavy relay connected directly to the battery to power them. The relay could be activated by a dashboard switch that could be connected to either side of the Painless7 (or switched from one side to the other).

Dan
 

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good acc wire?

go 2 http://www.bulldogsecurity.com for info on which wire for what located where. I made the mistake of just finding a hot wire with the key on and the blower just happeded to be off to use for my york clutch/pressure switch relay. Everytime I needed the heater, my Airock was starving for air. So when I needed air, I would shut off the blower until I found time to rewire.

pschoggens
 

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Ok here is a photo of what I did..statred out with..economical parts like 89cent relays and stuff from http://www.partsexpress.com I used to install my own alarms, stereos, and auto starters which use a lot of relays and 5bucks apop adds up tooo quickly. I have never had one of these relays fail yet, but I have never held one under water either. The power amp 4 to 8ga distribution block helps get plenty of juice from the battery to be broken up into smaller easier to manage 8 ga. wires to feed the 6 terminal fuse block. I have another one of the 4 to 8 ga. distribution blocks under the dash fed by an 8ga wire with solder on the end to make it fatter. This one brings in needed juice for the Ham radio but is interupted by a Charge Guard ( http://www.mobilemounts.com/chargegu.htm ). The Charge Grard will allow me to listen to my Ham, CB, and leave my rock lites or GPS on for a predetermined amount of time and ensure 11 volts will be left in the morning. This balanced the books fo the chea...the economical electrical parts thus far.
The power leaves the Charge guard goes to the distribution to be split up to 4 additional 8 ga ( or however many 16ga.s you want to stuff in there), the power supplies the ham, CB, GPS ( looking for a good one now), and 4 rocker switches on the console ( which sends a 300ma signal back to 5 of the relays in the photo )
The frist relay gets it's power from the charge guard and sends the much needed ground signal to the other 5 relays for them to work when I flip the little rocker switchs to make lites come on etc. When the Charge Guard says times up, then all goes dark and cold.

Soon I plan to build a little box to stroe all this electrical in so I can power flush out the engine bay and not corrode out my electrical.

 
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