Looks very close. Check out this video. I'm no expert but seems to me your drive side looks good but coast is a bit top heel. I'd aim for a tighter backlash of .006", and move the pinion out (decreasing shim) by maybe .002". Not sure which thicknesses are available to you and what you've already tried, but I had a similar pattern as that and .002" was all it took.
I just realized I posted the wrong video originally... I have both bookmarked but linked the wrong one. Here is the one I meant to share that should be helpful when you're doing this fine-tuning:
I think the pinion is still a little bit too deep... if you decreased .002 pinion shim just now (to move the pinion back... to make it more shallow) then I would probably try .005" less than from whatever it was at when you originally posted.
Check out that video to see if you agree. Basically the goal is to get both patterns in the same location heel-to-toe (along both sides of the tooth) then adjust backlash to make sure it is between 1/2-2/3 towards toe. You should be able to bypass a subsequent backlash adjustment step by just targeting .006" backlash before you check the pattern.
Couple side notes:
Make sure you are checking the pattern with resistance. What worked best for me is to do what's in the FSM, which is to wrap, twist and hold a red shop rag around the pinion yoke and with your other hand use a box end wrench on ring gear bolts to pull for one rotation then push for the other.
I'm not sure if you're using a pinion yoke holder, but if you are, make sure you are checking backlash with the pinion yoke completely secured. For me, I put a long breaker bar into the yoke holder and wedged it into the floor using a wood block. In my testing, the backlash was about .002" less when I did not secure the yoke this way.