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Discussion Starter #1
For the last couple days I have had a squeaking coming from under the jeep. Upon inspection I noticed that it was the front driveshaft. The noise is coming from the U joints near the transfer case. I have 2 questions.

1. When replacing U Joints should I just go with the spicer's? They do not have grease zerks, I have a couple friends that say get U joints with grease fittings.

2. After finding my squeak I noticed that my driveshaft has been rubbing on my skid plate. Is that bad? How do I fix it?
I have the 2"BB, 1.25 BL, and 1" MML - Thought this was supposed to keep everything inline - Also I was running the last 4 months without a swaybar attached at all.
I installed the Currie-Anti-rock a couple days ago.
 

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If your DS is hitting the skid I would just notch out a bit of the skid to keep it from rubbing. Now as far as the greasable or non greasable u joints. It is personal preference. I prefer greaseable joints because I hate listening to a sqweeky jeep. But some will say that non greasable joints are stonger but I am still not convenced. Hope this helps.
 

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Minjin said:
2. After finding my squeak I noticed that my driveshaft has been rubbing on my skid plate. Is that bad? How do I fix it?
Heck yeah, it's bad. When I first took my Jeep out after lifting it, I heard some awful grinding noises when I got flexed out and it took me a couple of runs to figure what it was. I had it so bad that the driveshaft interference was limiting my downtravel! So think about that, your entire axle is being supported by the drivshaft hanging up on the tranny skid. That can't be doing your U joints and TC bearings any good. It looked like mine was just rubbing on one little spot, so I ground it down and gusseted it in back nice and neat, thinking that was all it needed. Well it still scraped. It took about 10 iterations of cutting/grinding/welding before I finally got enough clearance. It turns out I had to cut clear though the crossmember to get enough clearance.

Here was my first modification, thinking it was just hitting in the one spot.


By the time I was done, I had completely sawn through the original crossmember, and welded a new crossmember channel below the original crossmember to support the driver's side end of the skid plate.



You can see even with such a huge mod, the DS just barely clears the new crossmember at full droop. Oh, and I also spaced the whole skid plate down 1/2" as well! You can see the spacer on the left side crossmember mount.

This of course is just a temporary hack. I guess my long term fix will be to by a Savvy Under Armor, or something along those lines.

So yeah, it's a huge problem, but don't tell anyone. It's the best kept secret in Jeeping for some reason. :roll:
 

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OBM did a mod on mine that completely eliminated the problem.
It took a little work, but was not that complicated if you can weld or have access to a welder.









 

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KingRubiconMan said:
What are your plans for the oil pan protection? That would concern me too.
 

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Missed that one but, that would be the way to go!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Very nice thanks for all the input. So the aftermarket skids like the Rokmen will eliminate that as well?
 

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Aftermarket skids will fix this issue.

I ended up just cutting that part of the skid off. So far it hasn't caused an issue.
 

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onikage954RR said:
I ended up just cutting that part of the skid off. So far it hasn't caused an issue.
Probably because you haven't hit anything with it yet. You've only got one screw on one side holding it to the frame. I'd say it's little more than cosmetic at this point and will be forced into the tranny with the sightest hit. Truthfully my repair ain't a whole lot better, but at least it's supported on both sides. The right thing is to buy a good aftermarket skid.
 

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f9k9 said:
KingRubiconMan said:
What are your plans for the oil pan protection? That would concern me too.
I tossed that factory front skid plate after teh first 500 miles. There are tons of after market options that attach to the from by the engine mounts instead of hanging that brace under the driveshaft. My suspension droops too far to notch that arm and avoid the driveshaft. from hitting.

I am pulling a Full Traction kit off my Jeep now that has an engine skid which will not get in the way. UCF makes great steel or Aluminum versions. There are lots of options out there.
 

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Please just don't cheap it out and get a Rusty's AT skid. Don't ask me how I know about them and their wonderful customer service.
 

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I also cut my skidplate bracket off and I welded up a new bracket that goes over the drive shaft and is kind of "A"-shaped. I've seen some aftermarket skids that also take this approach.
 
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