I have about 3" of lift and the stock lines work fine when discoed. The rear sway bar is a lot smaller than the front and flexes more, not need to disconnect them.johncanfield said:
Extended brake lines necessary for JKS Quicker Disconnects?
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Yup, sure did Gary - the Rubi is on the lift! The mechanic called me and said both rear axle seals were leakingKaiserJeep said:
, so there goes a few more bucks out the wallet for maintenance and not upgrades!I asked him about oil for the differentials post gear install and he said with good quality gears (which I bought from Dave at Northridge), a quality oil is okay right off the bat and break in is not necessary. He said with cheaper gears and synthetic oil, they do need a break-in period but won't break-in due to the synthetic's 'slippery-ness.'
With it on the lift, he was concerned about the length of the front driveshaft - it was compressed all the way and suggested I get the splines lengthened allowing it to compress more, or use longer control arms allowing the front axle to stay more forward when it drops. There is no driveshaft shop in town - the nearest one is an hour away so I guess I'll look into longer control arms. I have an acetylene torch and a mig/stick welder (I'm not an accomplished welder, just okay), so I suppose I can tackle that project
yea I want to add my .02 here as well. when I bought my jeep it already had a 2" BB and 1.25" BL. it also had Rubicon Express gen2 disco's on the front. before I went wheeling the first time I took the jeep to a local warehouse that had a loading ramp, disco'd and flexed it out
this was the end result
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needless to say I did not disco while wheeling. I am lazy and have yet to relocate the stock lines lower as mentioned above, I just dont disco while wheeling. flex is over rated when you have lockers! I will say that disco'ing for me is more about smoothing out the ride on the nasty access roads, than it is about flex on the trail.
this was the end result
needless to say I did not disco while wheeling. I am lazy and have yet to relocate the stock lines lower as mentioned above, I just dont disco while wheeling. flex is over rated when you have lockers!
I will say that disco'ing for me is more about smoothing out the ride on the nasty access roads, than it is about flex on the trail.
Welcome to ROF!!!johncanfield said:
(3 weeks ago... I've been busy lately and not online as much.
)I'm a little confused by this part of your post.
With 3" of lift adjustable control arms would be ideal but you wouldn't be lengthening them that much any way.
I have a little over 2" and my lower arms are set to 1/8" longer than stock - maybe.
I guess I haven't heard of people bottoming out their front drive shaft with a 3" lift and stock arms.
That combo is so common around here, I would think the topic of "front drive shaft adjustability" would
come up more often if it was a problem.
I appreciate your can-do attitude, you'll fit right in around here, but just out of curiosity,
how do you plan to address this [perceived] problem with your stick welder?!?! :wink:
EDIT: As mentioned, I have 2.5" of lift or so, and I just pull the bolt out of the brake line
bracket when I disconnect, which isn't very often.
This isn't the "right" way to deal with this issue, but I always seem to find other places
for my jeep money to go...
Yup - not a problem now. The mechanic and I had a long discussion and the conclusion was with one wheel up and one down, there is no drive shaft compression problem3rivers said:
Yeah... I took a 12 week adult-ed welding class a couple of years ago and boy did I learn a bunch. I want to address my 'problem' with some metal projects :cheesy: . I'm okay with the stick welder on horizontal surfaces, but when I get into odd angles (odd = anything other than horizontal), I struggle a bit. (I really want a 175-200 amp MIG setup - my MIG is only 75 amp (at least it has shielding gas) which is good for up to 3/16" stock.)
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