I have about 3" of lift and the stock lines work fine when discoed. The rear sway bar is a lot smaller than the front and flexes more, not need to disconnect them.johncanfield said:
I have about 3" of lift and the stock lines work fine when discoed. The rear sway bar is a lot smaller than the front and flexes more, not need to disconnect them.johncanfield said:Thinking about sway bar options and I've done lots of forum reading. I like the Quicker Disconnects since I don't want to sacrifice on-road performance.
Our Rubi has 33" tires and a 3" lift - would it be necessary to extend the brake lines?
Also, I don't see many kits available for the rear sway bar - what's up with that?
Yup, sure did Gary - the Rubi is on the lift! The mechanic called me and said both rear axle seals were leakingKaiserJeep said:Got the new gears in yet?
I would question that. I have never heard that before from any installer or manufacture. I may be wrong but I think a proper break-in is very important.johncanfield said:I asked him about oil for the differentials post gear install and he said with good quality gears (which I bought from Dave at Northridge), a quality oil is okay right off the bat and break in is not necessary.
Free is good - great tip!Red Dog Leader said:FREEBIE!
That's just a dumb and a very unsafe statement. :jpshake: I'd much rather have all 4 on the ground because I can flex than be trying to figure out where and if my tire is going to come down.flex is over rated when you have lockers!
I am not trying to start a bickering match because its all in preference for the kind of wheeling you do.Red Dog Leader said:That's just a dumb and a very unsafe statement. :jpshake: I'd much rather have all 4 on the ground because I can flex than be trying to figure out where and if my tire is going to come down.flex is over rated when you have lockers!
Welcome to ROF!!!johncanfield said:With it on the lift, he was concerned about the length of the front driveshaft - it was compressed all the way and suggested I get the splines lengthened allowing it to compress more, or use longer control arms allowing the front axle to stay more forward when it drops. There is no driveshaft shop in town - the nearest one is an hour away so I guess I'll look into longer control arms. I have an acetylene torch and a mig/stick welder (I'm not an accomplished welder, just okay), so I suppose I can tackle that project
Yup - not a problem now. The mechanic and I had a long discussion and the conclusion was with one wheel up and one down, there is no drive shaft compression problem3rivers said:I guess I haven't heard of people bottoming out their front drive shaft with a 3" lift and stock arms.
That combo is so common around here, I would think the topic of "front drive shaft adjustability" would
come up more often if it was a problem.
Yeah... I took a 12 week adult-ed welding class a couple of years ago and boy did I learn a bunch. I want to address my 'problem' with some metal projects :cheesy: . I'm okay with the stick welder on horizontal surfaces, but when I get into odd angles (odd = anything other than horizontal), I struggle a bit. (I really want a 175-200 amp MIG setup - my MIG is only 75 amp (at least it has shielding gas) which is good for up to 3/16" stock.)I appreciate your can-do attitude, you'll fit right in around here, but just out of curiosity,
how do you plan to address this [perceived] problem with your stick welder?!?! :wink: