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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I tried hopelessly to get the transmission pan down without moving the exhaust cross member, but alas it will have to move to complete my transmission fluid change.

Any advice for getting bolts that look like this (see photo) out without the use of special methods (ie welding a nut on, using a right angle drill). Any have experience with this?

I have them all soaking in PB Blaster now...

Many thanks!!

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Those bolts are history. The lower one is ready to break because of corrosion and the upper one is probably the same.
Hopefully they are through bolts because if they aren’t you have a project on your hands.
It doesn’t look like you’ll be able to get a wrench on the bolt or nut because they are in such bad shape.
If you have clearance I’d suggest cutting the bolts between the flanges. If they are through bolts both ends will then just slide out.
 

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Hopefully those are through bolts like Bob stated. If so, just cut in the middle and they should fall apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
From what I understand there is a nutsert on one end from the factory which can become the heat and beat nightmare. MAP gas and penetrating oil seem to be the keys. If I can’t get it out totally I’ll get one of those flange clamp kits, but hopefully I can clean it out and dress it up with some new stainless hardware! Mostly I just need this sucker apart so I can clearance the transmission pan 🤬
 

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Although it’s a little hard to see, that doesn’t look like a nutzert set up to me. Nor does it look like an oem installation. I’m thinking maybe the exhaust has been separated before and someone used common bolts to reattach and that’s why the corrosion issue with the bolts.
Have a feeling you’re going to find out. Use exhaust specific bolts and nuts for your reinstall.
 

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Undo the mount for the transmission and throw a block of wood and a jack under the transfer case. If you jack it up to angle the pan it will slide past the exhaust.
The nuts are fused to the flange but it is no big deal to drill them oversize and put a regular bolt and nut through them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Undo the mount for the transmission and throw a block of wood and a jack under the transfer case. If you jack it up to angle the pan it will slide past the exhaust.
The nuts are fused to the flange but it is no big deal to drill them oversize and put a regular bolt and nut through them.
I tried and tried and still needed like another 1/8” of clearance to get the pan out. Maybe I just chickened out but things were making weird noises and I didn’t know exactly what I was crushing or stretching with the tranny lifted that high so I stopped. Going to attempt a combination tonight...free the exhaust for clearance, (hopefully get some stainless hardware in there after) and lift the tranny a reasonable amount.

BTW...topsider vacuum pump was a lifesaver for this project so far. Very little ATF spilled. I would have even been angrier if I was dealing with no clearance and 5qts of ATF on the floor haha!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I’ll grab some pictures of the under carriage next time I’m out, but here’s the story:

I used my occillating tool to cut the center off the bolts in all 4 spots. The one side of the bolt fell right out clearing 4 of the 8 flange holes. The otherside was in fact a dreaded nutsert. I heated, I beated, I punched, I pounded, and I drilled, but alas I said screw it. I used a dremel to cut the back side of the bolts off and ground it down as flat as I could, then I just fit the exhaust with 4 Nickson 149 split flanges. I ended up using the longer M10 stainless hex bolts and nuts that I had bought instead of the hardware provided. Mostly just because I already had it and it initially didn’t look like the provided hardware would have had the reach. After it all cinched up I realized it would have been fine. It actually doesn’t look as bad as I thought it would. Ideally I would like to get the OE flanges cleared out and just use those for a cleaner look, but for now this works.

As far as the transmission, after I had cut the exhaust free it was real easy to slide the pan out. I did still lift it a bit from the transfer case for extra clearance in reaching the back pan bolts. Biggest lesson though....100 in-lbs is not a lot..... I didn’t have a baby torque wrench so I guesstimated. And stripped out one of the tranny pan bolts. At least it’s an easy to reach one. I still have a few threads of engagement so I’m going to leave it for now but I’ll need to get a helicoil kit in 60k miles or when it starts weeping. Whichever occurs first 🤣. She is shifting really nice now though. Probably need to check the fluid once more to make sure I’m at a good level. I ended up replacing 4.5 qts.

Lastly! On Monday my baby got new shoes! Goodyear Duratrac 295 70R17s on the stock Rubicon wheels. She looks good and balanced now with the little 1.5” Taraflex lift and level kit. I also added 1.5” wheel spacers to mitigate any potential back spacing issues.

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I’ll grab some pictures of the under carriage next time I’m out, but here’s the story:

I used my occillating tool to cut the center off the bolts in all 4 spots. The one side of the bolt fell right out clearing 4 of the 8 flange holes. The otherside was in fact a dreaded nutsert. I heated, I beated, I punched, I pounded, and I drilled, but alas I said screw it. I used a dremel to cut the back side of the bolts off and ground it down as flat as I could, then I just fit the exhaust with 4 Nickson 149 split flanges. I ended up using the longer M10 stainless hex bolts and nuts that I had bought instead of the hardware provided. Mostly just because I already had it and it initially didn’t look like the provided hardware would have had the reach. After it all cinched up I realized it would have been fine. It actually doesn’t look as bad as I thought it would. Ideally I would like to get the OE flanges cleared out and just use those for a cleaner look, but for now this works.

As far as the transmission, after I had cut the exhaust free it was real easy to slide the pan out. I did still lift it a bit from the transfer case for extra clearance in reaching the back pan bolts. Biggest lesson though....100 in-lbs is not a lot..... I didn’t have a baby torque wrench so I guesstimated. And stripped out one of the tranny pan bolts. At least it’s an easy to reach one. I still have a few threads of engagement so I’m going to leave it for now but I’ll need to get a helicoil kit in 60k miles or when it starts weeping. Whichever occurs first 🤣. She is shifting really nice now though. Probably need to check the fluid once more to make sure I’m at a good level. I ended up replacing 4.5 qts.

Lastly! On Monday my baby got new shoes! Goodyear Duratrac 295 70R17s on the stock Rubicon wheels. She looks good and balanced now with the little 1.5” Taraflex lift and level kit. I also added 1.5” wheel spacers to mitigate any potential back spacing issues.

View attachment 76373
Nice...glad you got it together...can you post a photo of the fix? Unfortunate re the stripped pan bolt...it probably is better to under torque because the steel bolt easily strips the softer aluminum threads and that is why I picked up an inch-pound torque wrench...otherwise you can sneak up on the torque a little at a time but if the pan has been off in the past there is no guarantees because the threads get weaker with age (what else is new)...have lots of fun!
 

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I’ll grab some pictures of the under carriage next time I’m out, but here’s the story:

I used my occillating tool to cut the center off the bolts in all 4 spots. The one side of the bolt fell right out clearing 4 of the 8 flange holes. The otherside was in fact a dreaded nutsert. I heated, I beated, I punched, I pounded, and I drilled, but alas I said screw it. I used a dremel to cut the back side of the bolts off and ground it down as flat as I could, then I just fit the exhaust with 4 Nickson 149 split flanges. I ended up using the longer M10 stainless hex bolts and nuts that I had bought instead of the hardware provided. Mostly just because I already had it and it initially didn’t look like the provided hardware would have had the reach. After it all cinched up I realized it would have been fine. It actually doesn’t look as bad as I thought it would. Ideally I would like to get the OE flanges cleared out and just use those for a cleaner look, but for now this works.

As far as the transmission, after I had cut the exhaust free it was real easy to slide the pan out. I did still lift it a bit from the transfer case for extra clearance in reaching the back pan bolts. Biggest lesson though....100 in-lbs is not a lot..... I didn’t have a baby torque wrench so I guesstimated. And stripped out one of the tranny pan bolts. At least it’s an easy to reach one. I still have a few threads of engagement so I’m going to leave it for now but I’ll need to get a helicoil kit in 60k miles or when it starts weeping. Whichever occurs first 🤣. She is shifting really nice now though. Probably need to check the fluid once more to make sure I’m at a good level. I ended up replacing 4.5 qts.

Lastly! On Monday my baby got new shoes! Goodyear Duratrac 295 70R17s on the stock Rubicon wheels. She looks good and balanced now with the little 1.5” Taraflex lift and level kit. I also added 1.5” wheel spacers to mitigate any potential back spacing issues.

View attachment 76373
“On the road again” 😎
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Here’s some pics of the exhaust “fix”. Honestly, it will probably stay like this forever. In the first pic you can kind of see and rusted end of the bolt still sticking out of the flange hole. You can see by how the split flanges seat I needed to clean up up the back sides as much as I could to get a good stack up.

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[Nickson 149 split flanges] Wow, that looks like a great product. I wish I would have thought up something like that! Where did you source those?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Nickson 149 Split Flange 2 1/4-2 1/2


Good old Amazon! There were some other options, but this was the only one I could for sure confirm was compatible with the 2.5” exhaust pipes. Note: I had to order 4 so got twice as much hardware as I needed....(then proceeded to not use any of the hardware 🤣) But I’m not sure why this product would not be sold in a 2 pack..
 

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Nickson 149 Split Flange 2 1/4-2 1/2


Good old Amazon! There were some other options, but this was the only one I could for sure confirm was compatible with the 2.5” exhaust pipes. Note: I had to order 4 so got twice as much hardware as I needed....(then proceeded to not use any of the hardware 🤣) But I’m not sure why this product would not be sold in a 2 pack..
I've been around a very long time and have never seen these...thank you for the update and now I know where to turn when the exhaust will not cooperate!
 
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