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While doing a 5" stretch, I had to relocate the EVAP system on the Jeep. Once completed, I've had a few questions on how its done... so though a writeup might help those thinking about doing the same.
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The goal here is to safely and effectively remove the charcoal canister from the LDP assembly.

Step 1: Remove the entire assembly from the Jeep. To do so, you will have to remove an upper bolt/nut and a lower bolt/nut. In the picture below, you can see the unit and the bolt/nut locations indicated with the red circles.


Once the two bolts/nuts are removed, you will have to disconnect two hoses and an electrical connection. On the two hoses, one is a larger gray connection. The second connection is a smaller gray connection. In the picture below, you can see the two hoses and the electric lines indicated by the three red circles:


With the assembly removed, the inside of the fender will look like:


Step 2: Re-configuring the LDP assembly. With the unit out of the Jeep, it will look like:


To remove the charcoal canister, simply unbolt the 4 bolts at the top of the unit. In the picture below, these are indicated with the red circles:


When dropping the tank out of the unit, disconnect the two 5/8" hoses from the top. At the same time, you can disconnect them from the LDP assembly. The lines are indicated by the two green lines:


Once the canister and lines are removed, the LDP assembly should look something like this:


Now, you can add a new 5/8" line to the LDP assembly, You will need to remove the white connection from the old 5/8" line and re-use it. Once the line is connected to the unit and the connection, it will look as follows:


Step 3: Remove part of the factory charcoal/LDP assembly support on the tub. Simply cut the existing support out that was holding the LDP assembly in place. In the picture below, the green lines show you where to cut. Once cut, buff/polish out all the rough edges and paint everything.


Step 4: Altering the LDP frame. The assembly is now setup properly, but you will have to alter the metal frame so everything fits back into the Jeep. In this step, you will basically be cutting the excess frame material from the unit. In the picture below, the green lines show you where to cut. For cutting, I used a 3" air cut-off tool. Also, I removed all the LDP equipment to make cutting easier:


Once the metal is cut, it should look something like this:


Once everything is bolted back up, place the unit back into the Jeep to make sure you will have plenty of room. You can orientate the unit in whatever direction you like, However, I placed the unit as far back as possible. You want to get the most tire clearance. Somewhere in this location is what your going for:


When everything fits, remove the unit, along with the LDP equipment and buff/polish everything down so you have no rough edges, followed with a coat of paint.

Step 4: Mounting the new LDP assembly: Now, you are ready to mount the LDP assembly into the Jeep. All I used was 2 - 9/16" bolts. At the bottom of the unit, drill 2 holes an inch or two apart. Place the unit back in the Jeep, mark the two holes, and drill the factory support. The green dots in the picture below show where the bolts are placed:


Once drilled, bolt everything up. Once bolted up, you can now re-connect the two hoses back, along with the electrical connection. When connecting everything, make sure the lines are not against anything sharp. Once you have the lines where you want them, zip-tie them in place and you should be set. It should look like the following:








With everything connected, you should have zero codes with the computer. ;)



In doing the research, I found this thread that really helped out.

http://www.rubiconownersforum.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=47026&hilit=EVAP+Location
 

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Nice write up. The second pic from the top would have come in handy when I was searching for the single brake light wire for the other project I was working on.

BTW, a box will be mailed to ya wed or thurs.. :D
 

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Ironic :D I just posted my writup on Pirate about a half hour ago. I didn't go into as much detail as you but I posted as much as I have patience for. I relocated mine under the body so I can comp-cut the rear. Here it is if anyone's interested:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=662992
 

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Nice write-up Phillip, I have done alot to my jeep, but you have gone so much farther.
 

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Will be doing this to my rig this week
 

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You never mentioned how easy it was to cut all that metal off the body in that tight little spot!!!!
:D
Still have all the scratches on my arm to prove it and a slight mishap with the grinder.



 

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provfirescott said:
You never mentioned how easy it was to cut all that metal off the body in that tight little spot!!!!
:D
Still have all the scratches on my arm to prove it and a slight mishap with the grinder.




At least the hinge covers the cut. Everything else Looks good!

I should have mentioned... a plasma torch makes cutting the excess metal out easy. :laugh:
 

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gregert12 said:
why are you removing the charcoal canister, besides the fact that it takes up room.


Room was 100% of the reason for re-working everything and removing the charcoal canister. :wink: Moving the axle back 5", combined with the outbound shocks... there wasn't many other options.
 

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Phillip
What was the reason for getting a new 5/8 hose? I am about to do this to mine as well and wonderedw hy the new hose. Does it need to be longer moving it to the new location? I am going to open up the wheelwell so this project needs to be done first. Thanks for the write up also!
 

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Doghouse said:
Phillip
What was the reason for getting a new 5/8 hose? I am about to do this to mine as well and wonderedw hy the new hose. Does it need to be longer moving it to the new location? I am going to open up the wheelwell so this project needs to be done first. Thanks for the write up also!

The factory 5/8" hose has a few bends in it, and is a harder type of rubber. Being harder, it wants to "kink" when being bent. The 5/8" hose I picked up, is softer, and allows for a smoother bend. Also, the bends in the factory hose didn't line up like it should. A new 5/8" hose is cheap, and easy to use.
 

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I'm going to try this out this week. I'm getting ready for a comp cut.

Those of you who've done the comp cut, did you relocate the canister as JeepGuy did or did you do as Philip did and remove the canister but left the rest of the emission stuff tucked back in the corner... or is it really exposed with the comp cut? And have any codes been thrown either way?

I'm stopping by Napa on the way home and pick up some hoses. :D


Thanks for the writeups!
 

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I dont have a comp cut so cant help you there but I have had it done this way for a few months and not a single code.
One thing if you do alot of mud or are concerned about the elements hitting it, It is very exposed, so some type of metal work to cover it would help.
 

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Okies said:
Nice write up. The second pic from the top would have come in handy when I was searching for the single brake light wire for the other project I was working on.

BTW, a box will be mailed to ya wed or thurs.. :D
Which wire is it? I'm planning to mount a brake light in the hard top so I can see out the back window at some point in the future....
 

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Great detailed write up Phillip,, though yours is different that my 05. I think I can make mine smaller since it appears to have less parts.
 

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thanks for this excellent write up, Phillip :D
used it last week before installing LED tail lights.

one note, i removed the mount for the LDC and the jeep threw the P1495 code. to fix it, i grounded one of the posts on back of the solenoid and the code was cleared.
 

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Mine is an 03, but I just tucked mine in between the tub and fuel tank. No need to remount it to the tub. I didn't reuse any of the bracketry, and have no codes. I just connected the hose together and used hose clamps, no 5/8 hose was needed.



 
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