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Discussion Starter #1
Is the Currie Antirock designed only for larger lifts, or can it be made to work well for an OME lift? And if so, what is the best way to go about it?
 

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The system is completely adjustable. This will allow you to adjust as you grow. You will install as the instructions say to and it is just a matter of adjusting the links from the axle to the antirock system.
 

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Actually, it is for lifted vehicles (if you want to properly set it up). I have the antirock with my stock 31's and I had to cut off both ends of the verticle threaded bar and that still isn't enough. The horizontal bar (the one with the 5 holes, black and with the AntiRock lable) is not horizontal to the ground (as it should be).

It works, it just isn't set up properly (I will be lifting the Rubicon soon so I'm not too concerned).

You might want to check to see if they have shorter threaded vertical bars...then it might work with the stock set up.
 
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I have the Antirock system installed on my Rubi which has the OME HD suspension system. You will have to cut the threaded rods in order to bring the arms to the proper angle. I talked to Currie and it seems the threaded Rods were disigned with a 4 inch lift in mind. However, if you do as I ststed "cujt the rods" you wont have any issues.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the feedback and photos. Some say the arms should be set at 11 degrees elevated with reference to the ground. And then others say it should be level. I think Currie says it should be parallell to the frame, but the frame curves upward. Which is best? And is there a big difference in roll depending on which hole it is set into?
 

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Ned said:
Rods cut so no threads visable:



Yo Ned, that's not a scratch I see on the flare there is it :D
 

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How much work was it to get it to work with the ARB Bullbar?

Grind or cut? Maybe a photo?

Thanks, Chris
 

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Brian,
Yeah, went out last weekend behind my house (fun little spot that I just discovered) and I keep adding character mark after character mark. :(

Craig,
I thought I had it all planned out and was gonna zip it out in a few seconds with a plasm cutter. Didn't work. I had a bad set up (too small of a compressor) so I ended up with a jig saw and grinder. Not too bad, just takes time. Here is a pic from someone else who had done the mod also.

 
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Discussion Starter #10
Well, we got it installed by cutting the rods and then adding some extra threads for the lock nuts. I have it set at the second hole from the end, and there is a noticible difference in roll resistance, kind of a nautical feel upon sharp steering wheel corrections, that I expected to get, but just the same, I miss the relative crispeness and precision that I had before the change. Have not had opportunity to take offroad yet, but I hope the improvement in the dirt will compensate for the loss of control on the pavement. In which hole do the rest of you position your antirock, and do you keep it in the same hole all of the time? Have you noticed much change in moving from one hole to another? And do you find that the rods and arms get loose and need frequent tightening?
 

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Yes, more roll with the Antirock...even in the hole closest to the front (which should be the least roll). But, you get used to it. It is nice because there isn't any disconnecting to worry about. There is a different feel from one setting to the next but it isn't dramatic.

Once I get my lift in, I'll have it in the middle setting most likely.

Rod ends: I haven't experienced any loosening.
 

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Instaurare said:
Thanks for the feedback and photos. Some say the arms should be set at 11 degrees elevated with reference to the ground. And then others say it should be level. I think Currie says it should be parallell to the frame, but the frame curves upward. Which is best? And is there a big difference in roll depending on which hole it is set into?
i have the same question!

So what is Parallel to the frame? is it following the axel/shock hoops upward or is Parallel with the ground?
any help would be great before i cut my links! thanks!
 

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This is parallel to the frame. I keep it in the last hole (furthest out) in the summer and then in the second hole in the winter (off season) The picture was during inital install thats why its set in the first hole.
 

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I have the OME HD 2 inch with a 1.25 JKS BL, i cut the rods as short as i could and still thread the jam nut and heim on. i measured so the threaded rod bottoms out in the heim and the jam nut got tightened so maybe there is 1 to 2 full threads still showing. it is not totally paralell to the frame it angles up a little but even at full compression the arms don't hit the fenders. I run it in the middle all the time. I guess on extended trips you could set it to the softest setting...i'm planning on leaving it in the middle setting. a small note.....as per the Currie distructions the first(stiffest) setting and the send hole......2 holes closest to the front of the Jeep are for on road only......so i set it in the middle hole. Here are a few pics. the last few poser pics were with the anti-rock installed.....enjoy. 8)

http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=2130204562
 

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Once you take it off-road, you'll think the on-road handling is very small sacrifice. It does a great job of making the rear suspension work better and really levels out your Jeep in off camber situations. I took my wife on one of the test areas at an ORV park (they have a few different things :teeter totter, rock pile, logs, and some moguls). When we drove over the moguls (they're set-up so your suspension is constantly flexing all the way through the course), she couldn't tell which tires were up or down. It leveled the body so well that we could've put a video camera (shame I didn't think of it at that time), pointed it out the front windshield and the whole ride would've appeared as if the road was flat). As far as making the rear end work, when we're climbing ledges the front end gets up and before I know it the back ends up too (other locked TJ's - similar set-up except the Currie anti-rock, need a good bump to get up the same ledges).
 

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I agree....i was totally amazed at how well it works off road. I was used to running discoed since 96' when i bought my 97' Sport new and few a few trips with the Rubi.....after the Anti-rock...i wish i had got one sooner. My buddy and i went out and there was quite a bit of off camber stuff, after seeing me go through with no trouble and the body staying a lot more level then his he wants to pick one up too......i was truly suprised it made that much of a difference. Once you get used to the slight extra roll you'll love it. IMHO. :D
 

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Ned said:
The resulting *mis*adjusted antirock (should be parallel to the ground)....does it work? Yes. Is it mounted per instructions? NO
you are wrong, it is not supposed to be parallel to the fround. Instructions state it should be parallel with the part of the frame which angle upward. I just called then 2 weeks ago to confirm this. Parallel to the ground is wrong
 

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jeepn4life said:
you are wrong, it is not supposed to be parallel to the fround. Instructions state it should be parallel with the part of the frame which angle upward. I just called then 2 weeks ago to confirm this. Parallel to the ground is wrong

Jeepn4life,
Currie told you that the arms should follow the frame upward as it goes back over the front axel, to get the measurments for the links?

so not like the picture above then?

I keep getting different answers for this question...... what to do :p
 

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Tigger said:
Ned said:
Rods cut so no threads visable:



I really don't think it it a good idea to have your arms angled up. as soon as you flex it WILL hit the fender. parallel to the frame gives it room to move without causing damage. I would call Currie again and ask someone else!!
 

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I have always set up the Anti-rock arms to be up from level. Since most TJs tend to have much more droop than compression you can run into a situation where the arm hyperextends ( the arm and link will be in a straight line ). This 'locks' the front axle from drooping anymore and sometimes can cause bent links.

As long as there is clearance ( on compression, between the anti-rock arm and the inner fender area ) you can have the arm up from level as far as you want.

Also remember that on SA TJs the axle will move back while drooping making the hyper extention proplem worse.
 
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