Thought most bent arms were for tire clearance or mimicking the OE arms.

Not sure on those specific arms though.

Also straight arms are easier to build.

 

They are not bent in toward frame but down.. so its not straight from axle to frame..
like if you take your arm and hold your mouse.. straight.. vs bending your arm ...

 

Not sure then. Hmmmmmm

 

Bent arms are a neat idea, but generally compromise joint quality in doing so.

A bent arm doesn't lay naturally, as it tends to "fall" to one side or the other. To keep the arms upright, they use poly bushings or OEM style bushings. Both bushings are a downgrade from Currie Johnny Joints.

A normal control arm with Johnny Joints on both ends will perform better, ride better, and last better than anything else.

The bend will do nothing to change geometry. It only changes the clearance compared to a straight arm.



If you want a nice set of arms, check out the Curries arms from Northridge 4x4 or from Savvy Offroad.

 

very good point.. but Andy's arms dont move like a the old teraflex arms(twistyarms). Theres a big lock nut that hold the bend down. and not to flop from side to side.
I ll snap some pictures when i get home this weekend.

 

If, yours are the ones that have JJs on both ends and are not pictured on their site then they will twist. JJs just do that and it doesn't matter on a straight arm if, the JJs are aligned with one another. A curved arm will twist one way or the other with JJs on both ends and the jam nut will just keep the JJs aligned if, I am making any sense. :rotflmao:

 

The bend in the arms themselves will not effect the ride quality. The axle still swings in the same arc with a bent or unbent arm. The only way to effect the ride quality is to move the points of attachment. So a long arms move the arm attachement points at he frame. Some mfrs make drop brackets for the frame attachment points to restore the stock arm geometry with short arms and taller springs. But bent or straight wont effect ride quality.
Andy makes some decent stuff-I run a set of lower arms he made for me with JJ.

 

The bend in the arms themselves will not effect the ride quality. The axle still swings in the same arc with a bent or unbent arm. The only way to effect the ride quality is to move the points of attachment. So a long arms move the arm attachement points at he frame. Some mfrs make drop brackets for the frame attachment points to restore the stock arm geometry with short arms and taller springs. But bent or straight wont effect ride quality.
Andy makes some decent stuff-I run a set of lower arms he made for me with JJ.

I understand this to be a true statement. Mechanical Engineers feel free to comment. Draw an imaginary line thru the center of a straight or bent control arm from one bushing to the other. That is the way the arm will behave. The bent lower arms (roughly straight from the frame and then bent downward to the axle) do provide more clearance. Does anyone remember the Nth long arm? That's the way their lower arms were shaped. It is a nice idea.

 

A bend in the arm isn't ideal--In order to prevent the arm from "flopping", a bushing is required. Bushings suck.

If you want better clearance than stock, among other improvements, cut the stock mounts off and start over. MUCH improved clearance, geometry (if you do it right), and stronger. That's what I've done with my "modified short arm" suspension.

 

A good friend of mine is running Teraflex radius arms on the front of his 2001 XJ. The thing performs unbelievable. No weird unloading at the wrong time. It just works really well.

 

So should i just rebuild my RE arms and be done with it? I still have to get some adjustable lowers since for some reason im getting the springs to hang up on the bump stop cup at full flex.. Sounds like the titanic sinking every time i flex.

 

So should i just rebuild my RE arms and be done with it? I still have to get some adjustable lowers since for some reason im getting the springs to hang up on the bump stop cup at full flex.. Sounds like the titanic sinking every time i flex.

That would be the cheaper route. But it sounds like you could really benefit from the adjustable lowers so you could regain some wheelbase. Which should help the spring snagging the upper bumpstop. Might I suggest either Currie or Rokmen lowers with JJs at both ends. Those work well for most everyone with no issues.

 

I ll end up getting Ironman4x4Fabs bent arms with joints on 1 side only. I dont need double jointed arms.
And im going to pay for a "membership" with ROF again.. all for 2012 resolutions
lol

Mark

 

I dont need double jointed arms.


Mark

What lead you to believe that?

 

i have no need for double jointed control arms.
the RE arms are only single jointed and i flex the hell out of em.

if you see the need for them. Cool! more power to ya!
Bushing in the back and joint on axle.. works like it should!

 

i have no need for double jointed control arms.
the RE arms are only single jointed and i flex the hell out of em.

if you see the need for them. Cool! more power to ya!
Bushing in the back and joint on axle.. works like it should!

I was expecting a more technical approach. A bushing isn't going to limit your "flex", it's just going to be stressed by any given amount of suspension travel, especially with a joint at one end. Anyone can "flex the hell" out of something but do you really know what damage you're doing to a bushing that has very little allowable misalignment? Unless your rig stays on the road or you just do bunny trails, you'll wear through rubber bushings. If you're spending money on new arms, do it right and get some with Currie joints on both ends. The durability, misalignment, and ability to constrain the axle trump rubber bushings while being comparable in NVH absorption.

 

Ummm for 250 bucks I would spend 40 more and get Clayton Arms. They have the bushing on one end and Johnny Joints on the other which is what you are after. Clayton products are amazing and def can handle ANY abuse you intend to put them through. Just my 2 cents

Mark

 

its my understanding having two joiny joints vs 1joint-1 bushing.. when you hit a rock theres more "dampening" to a bushing then with a joint. Most long arms i ve seen have bushings on the frame side and joints up front. Must be for that reason ..

 

You're understanding is wrong. If you're going to spend money on arms-I don't care if they're Clayton, Rokmen, Currie or this Ironmikewhateverfab, do yourself a favor and have them built with Currie JJs at both ends. I don't care what design or shape you want the arm, whether it is long or short, bent, strait or twisted like a pretzel for the "cool" factor-get them with JJs at both ends. You'll thank yourself later. I spent FAR too much time and hassle which was wasted swapping arms with bushings. The JJ's perform better both on and off road, period. The vibe myth and bushing superiority is nothing more than internet rumor and gossip that folks put FAR too much stock into. My JJ's ride better on the street, hold the axle in place FAR better than the bushings could ever hope too, eliminated front end vibes I could never rid the rig of with bushings, last far longer than bushings could ever hope to and out flex bushings as well. Honestly, if you're buying new arms, there is no reason NOT to run JJs at both ends. If cost is a factor, you've made it this long without so continue saving a bit more till you can afford them. It will be the last set you buy.

Best of Luck,

Mike

 

[quote='05TJLWBRUBY]You're understanding is wrong.........The vibe myth and bushing superiority is nothing more than internet rumor and gossip that folks put FAR too much stock into.................... no reason NOT to run JJs at both ends. If cost is a factor, you've made it this long without so continue saving a bit more till you can afford them. It will be the last set you buy........[/quote]+1

I couldn't agree more. Then, there is the faction that staunchly refuses to admit that they made a mistake with their first lift choices and will defend them to the bitter end. I believe in accepting that I screwed up (I did) and researching other avenues. I am glad that I bit the bullet, took a loss and moved up to better CAs. It would have been better if, I did it right the first time.

 

its my understanding having two joiny joints vs 1joint-1 bushing.. when you hit a rock theres more "dampening" to a bushing then with a joint. Most long arms i ve seen have bushings on the frame side and joints up front. Must be for that reason ..

With a jeep that is taken off road very much, the only suspension setup that it is either nessecary or acceptable to have a bushing at either (one) end of the control arm is a radius arm setup. And with a radius arm suspension the bushing is always at the axle end. Other designs like the four link, and three link you should always strive to have a solid joint at each end. Sure a bushing can and does absorb some road vibration. But to have a bushing on a control arm and in order for it to last (be durable) the material used much be extremely hard. In other words, have a high durometer rating as found in some hard types of polyurethane. If you have a control arm with that type of bushing in it, it is not going to have any more or any less road vibration than a joint like the Johnny joint which has a spherical ball surrounded my either polyurethane or Teflon races.

 

I just converted from stock (3rd set) to curries on all arms. So far all handling aspects are better than from the factory including a particular corner with ripples that the jeep always kicked out on , today barey noticed a slight twitch.

Some people may notice expansions joints in concrete are a little more pronounced but that goes away after a day or so of driving.

So far braking, accelerating, cornering are better. Body roll seems to be reduced and the springs appear to be doing more work than before where the body/suspension didn't appear to be well connected

john

 

[quote="jeepgeek2002" either polyurethane or Teflon races.

Currie JJ's use a urethane bushing around the center ball. Teflon races will wear much, much faster.

 

Rokmen installs JJs on their top custom Freak builds, like Fledge. It rides very smooth. What road vibration?

 

As others have said, Currie Johnny Joints at both ends are the only way to go!

Currie figured this out long ago, and has been running JJ's at both ends before all the other companies even started doing business. John Currie wheels nearly every weekend on the hardest trails known, and test the products he puts his name on.

In running JJ's, you will be amazed at the ride quality both on and off road. If you run run poly bushings at one end, you will be disappointed with the off-road quality. As the poly bushings wear, they develop "slop". This "slop" is amplified when playing in the rocks. JJ's on the other hand will not develop slop, will not start squeaking, will not stress your brackets, and are quick and easy to repair if needed.

The thing people don't realize, is the actual difference till they experience it first hand. I originally ran the "all mighty" Rubicon Express Long Arm kit with poly bushings at one end. After replacing bushings a few times, I cut the poly bushings off one end and welded on Superflex joints. At the same time, I converted the poly bushings on the axles to JJ's. The only poly bushing was on the upper arm where it connects to the lower arm. The first offroad trip convinced me that I had made a great decision. It was simply a night and day difference. Fast forward to today, new suspension with JJ's sitting under the Jeep all around. Only JJ's and FK Rod Ends are on the Jeep.

If you want a mall crawler, get poly bushings. If you are serious about performance, get JJ's at both ends. And if you want something really trick, get the billet joints.