Yes, plugged in the OBD2 while the engine was running.

Another note that this second replacement PCM from the Chrysler dealer threw codes, lost signal from transmission and dash gage cluster when I plugged in the OBD2.

Cleared these and ended up getting O2 sensor codes and back to the dealer to replace all O2 sensors to clear codes. And also replace OPDA.

I am using a different OBD2 tool now in fear the other one was defective.

Just test drove and some change in the sticky throttle, it's doing it less and idles normal.

Throttle still sticks when I floor the throttle and speed up fast and hold say 60 MPH. When I let off it still stays at that RPM and speed Go to neutral and RPM stays up high. In gear, slam on the brakes hard and RPM goes down to normal. Yesterday the RPM went down but stayed high around 1800 so improving today as it goes to normal idle

Under the hood all looks normal. One more thing...this started after the shift cable came off and I safety wired it back on. Could there be a reason that might cause this or is it a coincidence.

 

Lockers are ok described the problem in another thread.

But another new problem If you have been following and are getting tired of this just think of my suffering, man I just want to pass smog. Still the PCM is in question.

Present action, I'm driving my Rubicon on back roads to get some miles for the computer to gather data so I can pass smog. Today started the Jeep and plugged in the code checker. The RPM instantly shot up to 2800 and would not come down.

I turned the engine off, still high on start up, drove around my property at high RPM and still wouldn't settle down.

So out the back gate on dirt to a country road and off I go with the throttle going up and staying up. Would not try this in town! At 60 mph let off and the engine RPM kept the Jeep going at 60. Tried different speeds and throttle acted like it was set with the speed control. Played with the speed control and no change. Did this after start and stop for 10 miles or so.

Finally found that if I hit the brakes hard the RPM would drop down as if I was braking with speed control on. The idle would drop to 1200 or so but throttling up the RPM would not come down and stay at my max speed. So weird.

Now this is going on with or with out the OBD2 tool plugged in.

Anyone have any experience with the RPM's going up and out of control after plugging in an OBD2 diagnostic tool? BTW I use this tool on other vehicles with no problems so believe this is the Jeep not the tool.

 

Sounds like IAC solenoid.
When was the last time the valve was cleaned? Throttle body cleaned?
PCM sets a reference for IAC at start. If the valve is stuck the reference will be off. I would start with the IAC and cleaning the throttle body before looking elsewhere.

 

thanks I'll be on it.

Is this replacement bushing of the auto trans that I need? I'd call and ask but they are closed now.
http://www.quadratec.com/products/12521_9002.htm

Oh, another fail I forgot to share! Drove the Rubicon off road and put on the lockers... But no locker light and don't think the lockers were engaged. Have not checked anything out yet because of so many other fails. What should I check first for no locker light?

Again this Jeep build design failure is getting to me

 

About the shift cable... Thanks Black Rubi, information I need will and be looking. What is ROF and IIRC? If anyone has a link let me know.

So far from other forums the fix is buy a new cable from the dealer since you can't buy the connector alone.

BTW from reading the connector is just junk plastic the deteriorates over time. What is Chrysler doing making a critical part out of cheap plastic that can fail. I have had the Jeep in steep mountain trails that if this happened then I would be screwed and endangered.

I'm really questioning Chrysler's design/build

 

About the shift cable... Thanks Black Rubi, information I need will and be looking. What is ROF and IIRC? If anyone has a link let me know.

ROF is the forum you're on: Rubicon Owners Forum
IIRC translates to: If I Remember Correctly

As for the link go to Google and type in: "Jeep auto transmission modification" and look for a link from Jeep Forum.

For a link at ROF go to their "search" box and type in the same terms.

 

I know that there's a post on Jeep Forum (and here on ROF, IIRC) concerning modding the auto trans cable connection at the trans. It's simple and cheap to do.

 

Failed smog test two codes, OBD EVAP and OXY SNSR HEAT. Tech said to drive some more and come back, he thinks it will pass. Non the less I'm bummed as I have been trying to smog since Aug. 2015.

There is more BAD JEEP problems. I drove to the country Walmart and parked. Came out and the Jeep started but the auto shift lever flopped back and forth as if disconnected and would not go into gear.

Cell phone googled the problem and again found it is a common Jeep auto trans fail... cable connection from shifter to lever falls apart

Crawled under the Jeep in deep melting snow and saw the cable hanging and at the end a donut opening off the levers stud. No locking mechanism for the cable connection in sight. Safety wired the cable to the lever and got home. Loosing the love for the Jeep fellows!

Put on my code checker and no codes so maybe I should have driven just a few more miles before the smog test. Had about 120 miles which should have been enough. I'll try again in a couple days if the Jeep doesn't fall apart

At the risk of boring you guys to death I will continue this thread since it started because this Rubicon could not pass the smog test. On the way the Jeep has been failing parts and in all cases it is a known fail point on these Jeeps. My intent is still to provide useful information for other Jeep owners and hope that is what this is.

 

OP update: The frustration continues but may have the Jeep fixed. My good wife noticed a double rainbow rising over us as we drove out of the dealership and passionately says it is a symbol of good fortune. Then again she might be telling me she is tired of the Jeep thing!

Earlier today leaving Reno stopped by the DMV for a permit, again. The DMV Charged me quadruple for a day driving permit because their computer says I have used up the privilege and said with a smile.

Picked up the Jeep from the dealer and no codes even going up the steep hill out of Carson Valley Nevada. Add another $250.00 to the cost making the total around $2800.00 for this parts malfunction misadventure. Actually I expected to pay much more, looks like being a frequent customer has helped out. One for me

To their credit, Quadratec did sent a new OPDA next day delivery at no charge and free return mail for the bad OPDA. They were responsible sending me a defective Crown OPDA and costing me time, money, effort and frustration. I will send a letter and ask for some compensation. A test of good customer relations.

On the way home I stopped by the DMV again because I was told after spending $400.00 I would get a waiver for smog certificate for the year. I went to the station outside to get this done and was informed that I am a stupid person because the Carson dealer is not on their list of authorized shops. At least that was the tone. So no waiver for me

Didn't smog it yet because I didn't want to risk a fail for not having computer data, too be sure, need a few more miles. I'll go for a drive and smog tomorrow. I live out in the back country, high desert of Nevada, and hope I don't come into contact with a cop since I only have a one day permit and tomorrow I will be illegal. Probably a good bet I will be safe and then use a country garage for a smog test and keep out of the laws way. If I smog OK hope the DMV doesn't have some more tricks up their sleeve costing me more.

 

Got this off the internet so it's got to be gospel

The OPDA is the oil pump drive assembly, the component that houses the camshaft position sensor. The tone wheel is the part on the top end of the shaft that is driven by the gear on the camshaft, you'll notice it has notches along its edge that are picked up by the cam position sensor. The cam position sensor uses the notches to generate a signal to the ECM for camshaft and crankshaft synchronization so it can properly time the ignition and injectors.

If your tone wheel isn't positioned correctly, then your engine won't run. You do have some leeway to adjust it into tolerance by rotating the OPDA housing, but you may need to pull the OPDA and turn the slot a bit in the oil pump so you can rotate the tone wheel shaft a tooth or so and reinstall the OPDA.

 

I wonder if the "tone wheel" is simply a magnet and the sensor is a Hall Effect device. I have an old (and good) sensor somewhere - I need to take a look-see.

 

OP:
At this point in this long Jeep story of failed parts I am like a boxer on the ropes trying to weather the blows. Although it is my wallet taking the hits. Hopefully the rope-a-dope will be over soon.

The dealers service man, Mike, told me that the Mechanic, Eric, traced down why the check engine light comes on and then causes the engine to run bad. He said he was able to duplicate the condition several times.

Specifically, at about 3000 RPM's the timing suddenly jumps up 50 degrees.

The mechanic believes that when the PCM receives that signal it rejects the high advance and check engine light comes on. Mechanically he found that the "tone wheel" has a clearance 10 thousants which he suggested was too loose. I am assuming the tone wheel is the metal part at the top of the OPDA that the sensor is reading.

I just have to hope this is it. The Jeep is running fine with the replacement OPDA. My next worry is the new Crown OPDA from Quadratic which is arriving tomorrow at the dealers. If this one is bad... Just don't want more of this failed design/build stuff.

 

Count me as skeptical, but hopeful this is the solution. I have low expectations for mechanics I do not know...

 

Wow! Maybe too much slop in the bearings or gears? Hopefully this is really, really the fix.

 

Wow! ..... Hopefully this is really, really the fix.

Indeed.

 

OP update: Found the problem

Dealer service man called today and informed me the brand new Quadratec Crown OPDA is defective. Damn this is also going to cost me but I am relieved that the problem was found.

I was told the mechanic has spent at least 3 days on the Jeep. Hopefully this is not total time. The mechanic tested the OPDA and found that at 3000 rpms the signal fluctuated and cause the PCM to reject the signal thus throwing the check engine light and code. He changed out the OPDA with a used shop spare and rode tested it with out any codes.

I will call Quadratec and have a new OPDA sent out ASAP. I have no choice at this point but to have it sent to the dealer and have the mechanic install it. I'm guessing the bill will be many hundreds of dollars

 

Ok I'm trying to answer my own question but doing so to hear what you guys think since it looks like I've got a stumper.

Read at least two posts on other forums that you can move the OPDA around to make the engine happy and removes codes. So some are doing that. But no one is saying what is technically happening. Just do it I guess.

 

=====
Simply compensating for an incorrect OPDA install that was slightly off. As you know the thing rotates during install and removal and the movement is hard to replicate so the OPDA ends up off. I have removed and installed mine several times and once I had to do the slight rotation. The other times I got it correct and no CEL. If you use the technique with the marker stripes it is less likely to be installed wrong because you can see the error and do over.

 

I'm usually a do it yourself but the problem occurred while at the dealers so it's there. I'm sure it will cost me several hundred Fixed or not.

If a fix is not found I will set the OPDA were the Jeep likes it and hope for the best.

I do like the idea of replacing the old OPDA but it was at the 12 degree mark at the beggining and by chance put the new OPDA there after codes and the Jeep ran OK with no codes. Guess it was at that setting all along.

If anyone has a knowledge of what is happening when the OPDA is off like this please let me know. I am assuming it is being read by the PCM to coordinate the fueling with the timing but I don't know.

 

If anyone has a knowledge of what is happening when the OPDA is off like this please let me know. I am assuming it is being read by the PCM to coordinate the fueling with the timing but I don't know.

I'm just a hobby/novice but as I understand it you are correct... . The cam sensor in the OPDA is used to communicate valve timing(opening/closing) so that the fuel injectors are firing relative to valve opening.

The timing is controlled by the crankshaft position sensor located on the on the bell housing reading off the flywheel. Timing fires the spark plugs when the piston gets to TDC(or so)


Since yours runs better advanced, both before the swap and after, that means at "factory setting" the CPS is late delivering the fuel. The valves are closing and not letting enough fuel into the chamber and would give the effect of low fuel pressure or running out of gas- no power under load etc.

why that's happening I'm not sure.
Could be the relationship between the camshaft and the crank is off- any work done to engine?
Could be the mapping relationships in the CPU.
I'm wondering if there is some conflict between the Cam and crank sensor either mechanical or logic.
Since you can "correct" it mechanically by advancing the ODPA, it could be mechanical- a timing chain/ a tooth off, maybe stretched, or the opda might be a gear tooth off on reinstall.
Not sure if that is helpful, just some thoughts.

 

:banghead::banghead::banghead:

Your rig is haunted!

Trade: you take my brakes and I'll take your engine. I know how to solve that engine problem!:evilbat:

 

I see you think the cats are bad. I will check that out. But the symptoms make me wonder if the cats are the problem. Here is why.

When the OPDA is set at 12 degrees off the Jeep does not have any power problems or codes even under load and engine runs normal.

If the cats were bad wouldn't the engine have the symptoms all the time?

My issue is when the OPDA is set to spec the problem occurs and that happens when the engine is under load!

Just why does the Jeep like 12 degrees off on the OPDA is the question.

 

This is a frustrating situation for sure and the suggestion to repower probably gets your heart rate up even more!! Plugged cat/cats could be the answer. Back in the early days of catalytic converters there were several local GM pick-up owners that had their rigs power reduced way down while climbing a steep grade near us. This was prior to OBD systems, and it was hard to come up with a solution, but turned out their cats were broken up/plugged inside. Resulted in a foot-to-the-floor 20 mph top speed on a long 6% grade.

 

So the engine runs fine until it's under a good load?

Idea #1 - I would get a scan tool that can record in real time all of the PIDs and start recording when you start up that grade.

Idea #2 - install your original OPDA

Idea #3 - check for plugged cats like Frank suggested

Idea #4 - (my personal favorite) - repower

 

Frank are you kidding me?

 

Nope. Sorry but it sounds as if the engine is choking its self at higher rpm.

See JC's item #4.

 

I sure hate to say this but that sure sounds like plugged exhaust symptoms.

 

OP update: Jeep is back in the dealers shop and still the PCM is in question!!!

Took the Jeep in to the dealer today driving 50 miles with out codes or trouble to set the OPDA with required Chrysler scan tool. Reason was I thought I screwed up the OPDA position. More on that later.

Picking up the Jeep was told that the OPDA setting was 12 degrees off, now set to normal. Drove about 10 mile towards home then climbing a long hill the Jeep started to buck and surge and the check engine light came on with code P0344.

Barely making it to the top of the climb to a point where I could turn around and went back to the dealer.

The service guy took the Jeep back into the shop, mechanic checked the OPDA again, saying it was right on, cleared the code and gave me back the Jeep.

I knew, but had no choice but to repeating the 20 mile drive and hill climb then check engine light, P0344 code, bucking and surging barely making it to the top then back to the dealer.

After some discussion with the service guy the previously unseen mechanic came out and we had a threesome discussion hanging over the open hood of the Rubicon.

The mechanic was saying, "I can't do anything more" and the service guy was quietly and nervously observing so I had to take the lead.

Trying to keep my cool and with as much tact as I could muster gave a review of the PCM, O2 sensors, OPDA and that I was not going anywhere until this was fixed and finally we came to a plan.

The mechanic will check wiring/connections and if all looks good then change out the electronic sensor on the OPDA.

If problems continue then may need to change out the PCM again.

I know this is getting long but I need you guys to hang on and give me your opinion about this.

When I changed out the OPDA it's position was not the same as the original, and driving it gave the code P0344. Thought I screwed up the install!

So I eye balled it and put it back to the original OPDA position. The Jeep liked it , ran good and didn't throw any codes. But that now turns out to be 12 degrees off. The mechanic even suggested putting it back to 12 degrees off. But but I'm not good with that. Must be a reason and may be the PCM.

What do you guys make of this odd situation? That is Jeep likes 12 degrees off normal! If I do put it there what long term issues might happen?

BTW my wife was following me the whole way and the Highway Patrol pulled me over to check my temporary permit!

 

Frank and Steve,
Your advice makes good sense. I'll call the dealer tomorrow and head on down.
Although got to say, going to the dealer is like going to get your teeth pulled.
Thanks partners

 

You are welcome. I feel for folks that have Richard heads for dealers. The guys I had in Sandy, UT. In fact I still call Mike and order parts from him for delivery.

 

I think with the problems you had with the CPUs that you would want the dealer to ok the replacement and set it accurately so there are no questions when it comes to computer problems and codes.

 

OP update

PCM appears to be holding up with no codes but...

Replaced the OPDA and screwed up the simple job and got the timing off. I know

On the test drive code P0344 came up indicating the cam shaft timing was off. Did a lot of reading and tried to move the OPDA back to where it was. That simply was eye balling it.

Drove again and the check engine light went out and code went away My luck may be changing!

Question: Am I OK? Or do I need to go to the dealer and have them set it with their DRB scan tool.

Also read that I can set it by putting the engine in TDC and aliening the OPDA holes up again. Should I do that and then don't need the DRB scan?

Thanks for hanging in for me.

 

OP

Question: Am I OK? Or do I need to go to the dealer and have them set it with their DRB scan.....

Thanks for hanging in for me.

You have all this time and money invested. If it was mine I would have the dealer set it just to make sure it is dead on.