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Well crap. Yesterday we went wheeling up in the sierra's. Towards the end on the trail I noticed my brake petal was going way down. We stopped at the Shirley Meadows ski resort parking lot to air up. I found my right rear hard brake line was busted right at the joint where it goes into the rubber line. My Bad. I used the JKS brake line relocation kit when I did my lift and really didn't like the looks of it as the sway bar was awfully close. I thought I'd address it later. I didn't. :rolleyes: So count me guilty. We had to ride home with my brother and we got my son's 2500 RAM and my hitch off the motorhome and retrieved it.
So do I attempt to repair this or just get a new line? Me thinky a new line is both prudent and cheaper as I don't have a double flare tool.
Once fixed I'll use new stainless extended lines. I ordered some Crown units for front and rear. LOL Being I had my credit card out I got the DynaTrac big brake kit and some speed bleeders. Love speed bleeders. Just need to go to the dealer and order a new line. It looks fairly easy to replace, but you know how that goes:sneaky:

Any one know off the top of their head what size wrench these fittings are? I have a bunch of standard flare wrenches, but no metric.
 

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I have a very good double-flare tool. Although spendy, I love being able to build brake and fuel lines to exactly what I need. On my CJ-8 I built lines that go from a metric master cylinder to a standard proportioning valve. If you think you'll ever be doing more brake lines, I'd recommend considering buying one, otherwise just get what you need.
 

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Oh brother. I broke a front brake line on a Moab trail but I had a spare with me. I like the idea of replacing the line instead of repair. Speed bleeders are a real time saver.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Any one know off the top of their head what size wrench these fittings are? I have a bunch of standard flare wrenches, but no metric.
I have a very good double-flare tool. Although spendy, I love being able to build brake and fuel lines to exactly what I need. On my CJ-8 I built lines that go from a metric master cylinder to a standard proportioning valve. If you think you'll ever be doing more brake lines, I'd recommend considering buying one, otherwise just get what you need.
Yes I've done a lot of them too. I just don't have access to a flare tool. The line is $26 plus shipping. I ordered it from the dealer as if someone delivered a completely taco folded line off the UPS truck I'd be out more time. The dealer cost more for shipping, but at least it'd be returnable if damaged easier.

I also thought of pulling the old one off and try to get a lenght of brake line and just bent it into shape. I got those tools.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So after a few busted knuckles I got the brake hard line in. I added the Teraflex big brake kit and new Crown SS brake lines. I used my power bleeder to get the air out of the lines, RR, LR, RF, LF as it should be. I find no obvious leaks.
With the engine running the petal goes almost to the floor. Engine off it goes half way down. ?????
No ABS light on.
Getting off the trail was hard as I had minimal brakes. I tried using the hand brake, but I kept automatically hitting the petal.
Could I of screwed up the master cylinder?
Any advice?
Could it be I have hidden air in the ABS system that didn't come out?
 

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You could have damaged the master but probably not. If the brakes actually ran dry then you have to bleed the hydraulics for the abs. You wont have any codes or warning lamps just trapped air.
The procedure involves actuating the valves then bleeding individual wheels. Do you have a scanner or access to? If not then you'll have to get a shop to do it for you.
 
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Probably just go through them again.

There are the simple things, calipers not upside down with the bleeder on the bottom.

Bench bleed the master, basically just run from the output of the cylinder to the tank.


Lastley, I've heard of needing to bleed the ABS. You need a scan tool to do that. I replaced my master and all the calipers and never needed to do the ABS bleed, but that could be it. Guessing that may of been posted while typing this...
 
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Discussion Starter #8
That very well could be it. I have a scan tool. I haven't set it up yet. No sure its the type of unit to do this though. I think this is a Bosch system. I think you go through a procedure where you bleed the rear driver side first (with the key on I assume) and that activates the ABS pump. Then you do the driverside front. This is to bleed the unit. I'll have to research.
 

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LOL Scan Tool=Trip to dealer for Star Scan it appears.
Before I have to take it to the dealer I'll power flush a third time. I'll run a couple quarts through it. I can't remember if the Master Cylinder completely ran out of fluid or not. I kinda think not, but just to be sure I'll re-prime the Master Cylinder just in case.
I hate to take it to the dealer. I read a couple stories where the dealer did the scan thing, but didn't bleed the brakes at the wheels and they ended up getting air in the ABS again.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
BTW I road tested the Jeep. Those Dynatrac big brakes work very well. Brakes seemed fine, but it seems the petal goes down further than before and has some sponginess.
I got on a gravel road and tried to get the abs to come on, Seems I heard it once. I need to fine a wider area and do some hard turns. I did get the brake light to come on momentarily, but I have no idea what that means.
 
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