Boo Boo 2004 Rubicon
81 - 88 of 88 Posts
At some point I want to do that. But the current steering works good.
If I ever lose the front locker, I'll probably replace the whole axle with a Teraflex unit with their High Steering and add the PSC pump at the same time.
I just need to make sure I can get a deal on that cause it's EXPENSIVE
If I ever lose the front locker, I'll probably replace the whole axle with a Teraflex unit with their High Steering and add the PSC pump at the same time.
I just need to make sure I can get a deal on that cause it's EXPENSIVE
Overall it's solid. Most of the stuff I am doing is to make it mine and/or update some 14yr old components.
It needed a bath and some love to the paint. Unfortunately since the vehicle was not cleaned enough, bugs and tar did etch into the clear coat. Monica's detailing helped a lot, but there are areas that could be wet sanded and/or repainted to really bring it back. That's not an issue I am going to worry about and I get compliments about the paint all the time.
Sadly, the MCAI just does not work with the weather we have in PA. In PA we get monsoon like rain, for 30-240 minutes at a time, and that can disable the jeep in a matter of minutes. To avoid getting stranded in some extremely ****** weather, I had to go back to having the Air Filter under the hood. I can see that mod being awesome for the people who wheel all the time in the desert and really high temps, but it just does not work for my area.
I have found it funny that you tended to use electrical tape in a bunch of situations where I would use a Zip Tie.
I also tend to use heat shrink electrical butt connectors for connecting 2 wires where you have twisted them together and then used electric tape.
The only reason I comment on this, is because the electrical tape is starting to unravel due to it's age. It's lost the adhesion.
Some things I fixed
The battery was not tied down. The J hook on the firewall side was missing.
The T-Case mount was missing 3 nuts
I installed a 2" longer rear flex brake line and made sure to route it above the upper control arm and I also hard secured that to the frame rail where the hard line meets the soft brake line.
I tidying up the wiring and stuff that ran down the driver side frame rail.
I did order some replacement Rubicon Express parts and whats crazy is, they just arrived. It is still hit or miss when ordering just about anything. Some of the bolts and jam nuts are seized, which isn't surprising for suspension parts that are 14-16 years old. Once I get those installed, I will finally take it rock crawling. I've decided I am going to keep that, vs swapping out to the Clayton kit.
Its actually become my daily driver and the vehicle I bring to work 3-4 times each week which should speak volumes on how good it drives.
It needed a bath and some love to the paint. Unfortunately since the vehicle was not cleaned enough, bugs and tar did etch into the clear coat. Monica's detailing helped a lot, but there are areas that could be wet sanded and/or repainted to really bring it back. That's not an issue I am going to worry about and I get compliments about the paint all the time.
Sadly, the MCAI just does not work with the weather we have in PA. In PA we get monsoon like rain, for 30-240 minutes at a time, and that can disable the jeep in a matter of minutes. To avoid getting stranded in some extremely ****** weather, I had to go back to having the Air Filter under the hood. I can see that mod being awesome for the people who wheel all the time in the desert and really high temps, but it just does not work for my area.
I have found it funny that you tended to use electrical tape in a bunch of situations where I would use a Zip Tie.
I also tend to use heat shrink electrical butt connectors for connecting 2 wires where you have twisted them together and then used electric tape.
The only reason I comment on this, is because the electrical tape is starting to unravel due to it's age. It's lost the adhesion.
Some things I fixed
The battery was not tied down. The J hook on the firewall side was missing.
The T-Case mount was missing 3 nuts
I installed a 2" longer rear flex brake line and made sure to route it above the upper control arm and I also hard secured that to the frame rail where the hard line meets the soft brake line.
I tidying up the wiring and stuff that ran down the driver side frame rail.
I did order some replacement Rubicon Express parts and whats crazy is, they just arrived. It is still hit or miss when ordering just about anything. Some of the bolts and jam nuts are seized, which isn't surprising for suspension parts that are 14-16 years old. Once I get those installed, I will finally take it rock crawling. I've decided I am going to keep that, vs swapping out to the Clayton kit.
Its actually become my daily driver and the vehicle I bring to work 3-4 times each week which should speak volumes on how good it drives.
Haven't had much time on the weekends lately, so I finally got around to installing my hand throttle.
The DV8 shifter worked great since it is the perfect diameter to secure the shifter.
![Automotive tire Vehicle Speedometer Automotive lighting Automotive design]()
I can reach it easily with my ring and pinky finger with it mounted like this and it does not interfere with shifting at all.
![Automotive tire Steering part Hood Automotive design Motor vehicle]()
It's lockable, so I can use it to hold the rpms at a set amount for driving down washout roads, or using the OBA to fill up my tires.
Here is how I connected it at the Throttle body
![Tire Wheel Automotive tire Bicycle tire Tread]()
The DV8 shifter worked great since it is the perfect diameter to secure the shifter.
I can reach it easily with my ring and pinky finger with it mounted like this and it does not interfere with shifting at all.
It's lockable, so I can use it to hold the rpms at a set amount for driving down washout roads, or using the OBA to fill up my tires.
Here is how I connected it at the Throttle body
Did another simple install today.
Due to the fact that I am running 35s with 4.88's my speedometer has been off by almost 10%. I decided to fix that by installing a Speedo Healer.
It was super easy to calibrate and install. I just measured the speed via GPS and noted the indicated speed on the speedometer. My Speedometer was at 80MPH when I was actually going 72.5mph. Plugging that into their online generator resulted in this
![Rectangle Font Parallel Screenshot Logo]()
When you click Generate it gives you some simple instructions.
![Font Darkness Terrestrial plant Screenshot Number]()
Once I had this, it was a matter of installing it. It comes with a harness that has the stock Jeep connectors so it is plug and play. In the past, I had a dakota digital and I connected it first to the T-Case, then connected the AiROCK.
This time, I installed the SpeedHealer after the AiRock. My thought was, if the AiRock receives a signal for Active Mode that is a little fast, I am ok with that. The signal will be unchanged when received by the SpeedoHealer which will then modify it and send that signal to the Jeep.
I mounted the control module here, [The module comes with Velcro] to keep it and the wiring away from the exhaust. It loops around towards the middle of the engine bay, then down to the driver side frame rail and back to the T-Case.
![Automotive tire Tire Tread Motor vehicle Synthetic rubber]()
After a test drive, everything is working as expected. It's dead on from 5mph all the way up to 75mph. I'll keep an eye on this to make sure it stays that way, but I've seen lots of good reviews on this brand compared to some of the others.
Due to the fact that I am running 35s with 4.88's my speedometer has been off by almost 10%. I decided to fix that by installing a Speedo Healer.
It was super easy to calibrate and install. I just measured the speed via GPS and noted the indicated speed on the speedometer. My Speedometer was at 80MPH when I was actually going 72.5mph. Plugging that into their online generator resulted in this
When you click Generate it gives you some simple instructions.
Once I had this, it was a matter of installing it. It comes with a harness that has the stock Jeep connectors so it is plug and play. In the past, I had a dakota digital and I connected it first to the T-Case, then connected the AiROCK.
This time, I installed the SpeedHealer after the AiRock. My thought was, if the AiRock receives a signal for Active Mode that is a little fast, I am ok with that. The signal will be unchanged when received by the SpeedoHealer which will then modify it and send that signal to the Jeep.
I mounted the control module here, [The module comes with Velcro] to keep it and the wiring away from the exhaust. It loops around towards the middle of the engine bay, then down to the driver side frame rail and back to the T-Case.
After a test drive, everything is working as expected. It's dead on from 5mph all the way up to 75mph. I'll keep an eye on this to make sure it stays that way, but I've seen lots of good reviews on this brand compared to some of the others.
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