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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a M.O.R.E. 1" body lift kit and need to install it. The problem is, I have no experience with body lifts and am a little intimidated. I've heard that I need to be careful to put the body down straight or it will be "crabbing" and that the 4wd shift linkage is a royal pain to do. I really wanna do this right so my question is, am I making too big a deal of this? Should I shut up and put it on or have it done by a shop. I like doing as much work as I can myself, but I don't wanna mess it up either. I'm no mechanic but I managed to install my OME lift myself with no real problems. Thanks in advance.

Craig
 

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With a 1" BL you should not have to adjust anything.......Linkage should be fine.......Just follow the instructions and it will be fine......One side at a time...... :)
 
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Discussion Starter #3
If you managed to get an OME kit in, this should be fairly easy. I can understand the anxiety. The biggest thing that you have to worry about is in the rear with the gas filler hose on the driver side, and the charcoal canister on the passenger side. Make certain you pick the body up only far enough to slid the spacer in. The gas filler hose is stretched a little with my lift 1 1/4" JKS. With the Charcoal canister you have to be worried about the plastic lines that connect it to the gas tank. There is enough clearance, just don't jack the body more than you need it. The other point to be concerned about is the front grill support, when I pulled mine out the grill shifted so you may need a little help getting it lined back up. The 4wd shift lever is really easy to do. Just remove the bolts from under the carpet and pull out the bracket. Install the adaptor plate and to put it back in you will need to apply a little pressure to the shift linkage to get the shaft back in the bushing. To adjust the shifter after you get it installed, place it in 4wd high and loosen up the bolt on the trunnion (looks like a block on the shaft). All you should need to do is give it a little giggle and the block will shift to the correct position. Tighten it back up and you are done. I didn't have any problems with it crabbing, just make certain you lift it just far enough. Oh put the floor jack towards the rear half of the door, this should put you at a good lift point. I need to update this page a little, but here is my lift. If you have any more questions just ask.

JKS Body Lift

Ron
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the help! Ron, I feel much better now after having your descriptions to help me out. I really appreciate it. I think I'll probably try to do it myself rather than pay to have it done. Thanks again.

Craig
 

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PBR: It says on your website that you took out your raised motor mounts. Was there a reason for this? I was thinking about going this route so I don't have to do any t-case lifts or rad shroud cutting.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Ron - that is a great website you've got there! I'll be checking for updates to see how your buildup is going. I'd like to hear why you opted to take out your motor mount lift as well. I was planning on doing the body lift and then seeing if I had any vibes. If so, I was planning the same motor mounts you went with as a cure. Thanks again for the link.

Craig
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Okay I thought you guys were trying to confuse me, but I went and looked at the page and realized that I had fixed an old page and uploaded it. AARRGGHH... Websites. Okay here is the scoop. I put the prothane 1" body lift in my '99, it was terrible for me, I took it out. I put a JKS BL in my Rubi with a MORE MML. Both of these are still in. I can see how it sounds like I pulled the MML. I will fix that page when I update in the coming weeks. I don't have any problems with either lift. The MORE went in with none of the associated problems that I have seen and heard. Check out my MORE page for my way of putting in the kit and what I found. My buddy's MML hits on his '02, yet mine doesn't and the lifts were purchased at about the same time. We are going to play with his to see if we can clear up the contact.

Here are some upcoming Updates:
OME 2" suspension lift with lots of measurements (I am getting springs directly from ARBUSA to help settle the height issues with winches)
OME Steering Stabilizer
Skyjacker T-case shifter relocation bracket
Teraflex 3/4" Spring Spacer (to level out the front)
Teraflex rear shock relocators

Oh ramped it this weekend with the discos installed. 82.5" up a 20deg ramp. Tire 28" off the ground. For those with desire for scores that is 883. I was limited by my shocks. My buddy with his OME kit installed ramped 1000. The wife let me ramp her Grand..538, really smooth.

Ron
 
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Discussion Starter #10
I'm sort of in the middle of my install and what a royal PITA it's turning out to be!! Putting the pucks in was a piece of cake - dealing with the issues arising from lifting the body is where the trouble lies. I removed the shroud from the radiator and took the fan off, but I can't figure out how the fan and the shroud are supposed to come out. Unless you are supposed to remove parts of the pulley system and that seem like asking for trouble. Fitting a regular drill in on the drivers side for the lowered holes is near impossible. So I'm at an impass. Should I just go get the motor mount lift and avoid some of these issues? Or am I asking for a new set of headaches with that? Ron...feel free to chime in. I haven't even gotten to the 4WD lever yet!! :puppydogeyes:

Help.
 

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The MM lift is a PITA in its own right. Do what 4x4mac and I did - cut out the bottom of the shroud with a Dremel tool. Quick and easy.

The TC linkage drop bracket is a piece of cake. Didn't need to adjust anything after installing mine.

Jerry
 
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Discussion Starter #12
The shifter bracket it easy, so don't worry about it. Heck the hardest part on it is getting the bolts back in. I used a cordless screwdriver, and help from the wife on that one. Case of couldn't hold bracket, and put screw in hole. Arms not long enough.

Fan Shroud. I am not certain if you can do what I am going to suggest, so let me know if it doesn't work. I am going to assume that you already pulled the overflow bottle off, if not, pull the hose off the little nipple on the side of the radiator, and then look in the front of the bottle. You will see a part of the bottle protruding into a hole about 4-6inches down. Push that in and lift the bottle up and out. Now that you have the bottle out and the fan disconnected, see if you can rotate the fan shroud around to get to the other holes. To get the fan itself out you would need to disconnect the fan clutch. That silver fined object in front of the blades. This can be a real pain, so see if you can rotate the shroud around.

It's pooring here so I can't go look at mine. FYI, I just spent 7 1/2 hours wrenching on a Jeep putting a RE 3.5 superflex kit in. Swaybar end links in, Front LCA's bolted in and one spring removed. Losses - 5 Sawsall blades, both front cam adjusters, lots of missing skin, blood and that is all for 1 day. I am beginning to hate Canadian Jeeps, this one came from somewhere in Yukon territory and every bolt is seized.

Ron
 

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I think the TC linkage is luck of the draw on whether it goes smoothly or is a pain. Mine was a pain and took a long time to get adjusted before the shifter matched what gear the TC was really in and how smoothly the lever operated.

I've heard a lot of people say (including the 4x4 shop where I bought the MORE BL) if you don't use a linkage bracket, the TC can pop out of gear while on the trail.
 

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If that Jeep came from the Yukon it has been well used!
 
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Discussion Starter #15
Quick update on the RE 3.5 lift. The Jeep now sits in my garage vice on a lift with air tools around it. (shops closed until Thursday). It is drivable (if you can call it that, it wandered all over the place at 25mph), but after 15 hours. We have springs, shocks, front LCA's and a partial install of discos and rear track bar bracket. I still have to install the rear LCA's, pull the front trackbar (drill and reinstall), reinstall the rear trackbar, install front brake lines, install front cam bolt (had to be hacked off), and install the T-case drop. RE instructions, for lack of better word SUCK. My friends wife is being very patient with him. It is her Jeep, he has limited mechanical skills and I am a machine when I work on things (I turned wrenches for 7 hours straight today). Bathroom brakes are optional. :D I hope to have the rest of it completed by Saturday. The Jeep is in great condition for a '98. I only found one leak, and I really think it is an overfilled rear pumpkin. Whoever had it up in the Yukon took care of it right.

Ron
 
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Discussion Starter #16
Ok guys, I'm sorry for being a continuous pain about this, but I really appreciate the feedback. It's been helping a lot. I got home from work today and got the shroud done. Rented a 90 degree drill and it was a lot easier. I think some sleep helped too. Put the TC bracket on, smooth...but I haven't tested it yet because I tried to get the steering bracket raised. This steering bracket is looking to be as big a PITA as the shroud was. Any help on this? Mike, since you have done this lift maybe you can shed some light. Ron, any thoughts on tools in tight places here? Any help from anybody would be appreciated. I stopped for tonight, but plan on picking it up again tomorrow. Again, sorry for all the questions but the help is fantastic.

Craig
 
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Discussion Starter #17
Having a set of stubbys (real short combo wrenchs) around are great. Also ratcheting box end wrenches and pivioting ratchets work wonders. We also can't leave out the universal for sockets. If you are talking about the bolts that hold the shaft bushing (about middle of the engine compartment driver side), you could try reaching up from the bottom to get to it. Then again you could just say forget it and leave it out. Don't worry about being a pain, I really enjoy talking Jeep and helping people out with things. I've spent 17 years trying to figure out how to get things in and out, and what tools to use, while desiring to choke the design engineers, so ask away.

Ron
 

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Theep said:
Ok guys, I'm sorry for being a continuous pain about this, but I really appreciate the feedback. It's been helping a lot. I got home from work today and got the shroud done. Rented a 90 degree drill and it was a lot easier. I think some sleep helped too. Put the TC bracket on, smooth...but I haven't tested it yet because I tried to get the steering bracket raised. This steering bracket is looking to be as big a PITA as the shroud was. Any help on this? Mike, since you have done this lift maybe you can shed some light. Ron, any thoughts on tools in tight places here? Any help from anybody would be appreciated. I stopped for tonight, but plan on picking it up again tomorrow. Again, sorry for all the questions but the help is fantastic.

Craig
i know your pain... takes 2 people to do this.
what i did to adjust the transfer case bracket was put it in 4 low and then
pull the handle all the way back leave enuff room so it looks right.
then thighten the bracket underneath the Rubi ...
then drive it ..work through the positions try shifting into 4 hi then nuteral and 2 hi.. should be fine if not repeat as needed. took us 3 try`s to get that shifter just right.
good luck.
mac
 
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Discussion Starter #19
Finally got it!! The T-case lever wasn't a real big deal, just a little trial and error. As far as that damn steering bracket, I took Ron's advice and have left it out. Maybe someday when I'm feeling sadistic, I'll give it another go. In any case, the lift looks great. Thanks again to all who have assisted. I really appreciate it.

Craig
 
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Discussion Starter #20
No problem Craig, glad you finally got it installed. Enjoy the ride.

Ron
 
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