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Discussion Starter #501
I keep seeing where the mtb folk wear out 2-3 chains per 1 cassette IF you swap out worn chains soon. "Soon" I thought was .75..... apparently I need to keep it to .5.

Cassettes and chains are too dam expensive to have to replace both every 800 miles.

Very possible, given the low RPM of the MTB. Also, paying more money for something does not make it better. I purchase my Shimano cassettes, and the SRAM 1130 chains and they wear good with my wax bath. I had an easy year, only 6,000 miles, I changed two chains and two cassettes.

11 speed chains are changed at .5, an inexpensive Park Tools chain wear gauge with .5 and .75 can be purchased on Amazon.
I have used all kind of chains, and the SRAM has been the best to date. Most chains are marketing hype, and users pass it along to justify their paying an exorbitant price for something that will not last. Most people also forget most of these chains are used by race teams and are replaced every race. They can afford it, I can't. I want something which will last. It's like all these whackadoodle lubes that are sold, it's hype! Make your own, it'll be better.
It all boils down to what works for you! Do you want longevity or do you want to be GQ. I go for longevity. It's like people with Dura Ace, Ultegra, I've left plenty behind me with my 105. Your legs get you down the road, not a name on a derailleur or on a bike frame.
 

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Oh I can certainly dig all that, sound advice. I generally search the internet on an idea to see what works and what doesn't based on a general consensus of what I read from a variety of sources and draw my own general conclusions in an effort to avoid the marketing BS, weed out the fanboy junk, and come to a more sensible truth of product performance. So far, and I easily could be wrong (time will tell), in the MTB world of SRAM the higher end (XO1 or XX1) cassettes and chains reportedly last longer by 2-3 times vs the mid range GX or NX series. That said you also have to weigh the price vs frequency of replacement. Which in my head scratching knocks XX1 out of the equation which is really just their XO1 products with a little more weight shaved and a lot more bling. I guess one negative to a 1x12 system on a MTB is that there is not a whole lot of options, especially price effective ones. Sunrace has a few cog sets, and KMC as some chains. But neither has outstanding reviews that I have found so far. That may change, maybe I have not come across the right research yet.

I got my new xo1 cassette in last night and compared it to my GX cassette. WOW! Just WOW! The weight is phenomenal the way they machined everything out of bar stock vs pinning the cogs together. I have not ridden on it yet, but when I did the install and checked everything over on the rack my shifting went immediately back to that ultra crisp, precise, quick shift that I thought I still had but obviously didn't. I also went ahead and got me another chain, I am going to start swapping them out so one is always ready to go. I am certainly going to be checking the chains more frequently and changing them out more often.
 

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Discussion Starter #503
ON MTB you can't change individual cogs?
I check my chain every 2nd or 3rd ride depending on when I get near 120 miles, which is when I take the chain off and bathe it in wax. Since I went to the wax bath I get exceptional chain wear now. I used to change chains about every 500 miles, which was insane.
 

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ON MTB you can't change individual cogs?
No. Many, many years ago I had a cassette group that would allow for me to change the lower tooth number cogs, maybe the last 2. But all of the SRAM 1x12 groups are pinned together or machined as one. If you wear one gear out.... then you either quite using that gear or replace the whole cassette.
 

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ON MTB you can't change individual cogs?
I check my chain every 2nd or 3rd ride depending on when I get near 120 miles, which is when I take the chain off and bathe it in wax. Since I went to the wax bath I get exceptional chain wear now. I used to change chains about every 500 miles, which was insane.
Same on road bikes. Modern cassettes of higher quality (ie Shimano 105 or better, SRAM 1170 or better) have shift ramps specifically designed to each cassette group. Cogs from an 11-23 can be different from cogs in an 11-28 cassette even when the individual cog has the same tooth count. And on the larger cogs, all the manufacturers put the cogs on larger carriers. This helps reduce wear on the freehub body, which is also a source of issues and can cause shift alignment issues. It's possible to swap out a cog in the mid to high gears, and shifting will work, it just might be a bit rough.


On a MTB, its usually the bigger cogs (ie granny gear) that wear out first from time spent climbing. And those are on the big carriers.
 

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Last year I ran a e13 cassette and you could change the granny by itself. It doesn't make sense to me because it costs about half of a whole cassette.
On my XC bike I rotate a couple chains then there comes a time when you just leave it until it's new drivetrain time. If a person gets carried away you can go through a lot of chains to try and make your drivetrain last. But chains aren't cheap either and no matter what I do I have to replace the drivetrain after a season.


I agree with making your own chain lube. The bike industry has all these elixirs and concoctions but they are still way behind other industries.
I don't have the patients to make my own lube so I do use some commercial wax lube and have good luck around here until it rains. Then I need a oil base lube. Experiment then use what works for you.


I ordered a new XC race bike. Anyone else upgrading?
 

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@rlenglish what XC did you get? Evil just release a sweet looking gravel/cyclecross bike.

Get this.... ordered a XO1 chain to add to my rotation from Amazon... It came in today, sort of.... The seller (but fullfilled by amazon) apparently has a person somewhere in the mix that is taking the XO1 chains out of their box and sliding in the cheaper GX chain in place. Was soo pissed.
 

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My LBS (sponsor) deals in Norco/Kona/Giant. I ended up with a Norco revolver 120. The updated Geometry works for my area.
Some of the problem up here is that bike companies offer their complete lines but don't deliver until the US has taken what they need. You guys are just a bigger market so you get priority.
 

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A FS. I bought a Kona Honzo HT last year because the Norco was a dated design. This year they revamped their xc line up and I am excited.
 

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You were up early!
 

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So I finally got outside for a ride. I made a new friend but we are social distancing. We were about 60 feet apart. As you can see we still have snow when you try to gain a little elevation.
IMG_20200412_173038_090.jpg
IMG_20200412_173038_097.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #516
Looks like a brown Wolfus. I have been riding quite a bit, nothing new with that though. I have no worries of seeing anyone all the wannabe cyclist are hiding in their houses. It's been nice for the most part cycling with decreased traffic, and the animals like it as well. I just hope they don't get to used to it, the fools will be back on the roads soon.
It's bad when you prefer animals over humans.
 

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Discussion Starter #517
We had a curfew here, so my very early morning cycling was not allowed. I had been having to wait till 0500 to ride, which is early for most humans.
I've been getting up around 0230, but have not made it out the door before 0500 yet. lol I guess I have developed the Lazy Arse Virus created in a lab in most inner cities.
Here is my latest sunrise pic from my last ride on 5 May 20.
 

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Where do you order from
 
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