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Discussion Starter #1
As I read and read and read in my free time I got to wondering about helping me with trails such as the beating I took on Drummond Island this past weekend. Has anyone beefed up the Rubi's steering yet and what they have learned from the experience and any pro's/con's with the setup they went. Tube or rod tierod replacements, steering stabilizers, with lift or stock height. My current plan is to wheel as long as I can before going with my RE 4.5SF lift and 35" tires. I will most likely get a spacer kit to run 33's next year sometime as I already have a body and motor lift installed. I was thinking of improving my steering at stock height and hopefully not having to replace it once I lift it. So, let the debate begin :p
 
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I am pondering this same thing myself. It hasn't happend to me yet, but the shop guys, tell me to mangle the tie rod and keep bending it back into place, then when it starts to get really bad go ahead and replace. The Tie Rod does seem extra vulnerable thats for sure. They tell me the steering stabalizer used in the Rubicon is actually pretty good, even with a high lift, nobody so far has suggested I change it.

How many people here have replaced their Shimmy shock or stabalizer, or whatever it is called these days????
 
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I did both times. My OME kit had the OME stabilzier and now my RE kit has a Monroe Stabilizer. The OME appeared (probably is) a shock turned on it's side. Didn't really notice a big difference between it and stock except for size. My RE kit now has the Monroe, it is smaller in size than the OME, but larger than stock, it is also heavier (compression/ extension force) than the stock and OME.

Ron
 

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PBR would you recommend the Monroe or is stock just as good? Been reading about this for awhile and everyone seems to like the Monroe but just want the last confirm before I buy one!! Thanx Chaz
 

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Get the Monroe. You won't regret it.

Jerry
 

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I beefed up my tie-rod a little while with a GoFerIt 1 1/4" tie rod. It really does seem beefy but I think it is going to take a little tiny bit of grinding/filing to 100% prevent it from binding with the drag link. I really like the Currie HD steering conversion too.
 

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I have changed out my tie rod with a 1 1/2 3/8 DOM with 1989 dodge ram tie rod ends. I am running a Skyjacker steering stabalizer and I am fairly happy with the setup. I have managed to bend my Drag link and I am currently in the process of building a new steering system. It will be as follows:

Over the kunckle steering.(Going to Ream the top of the knuckles to fit a 1 ton GM tie rod.
Reverse Z system (meaning the tie rod will go Knuckle to knukle and the drag link off that)
Links to be made of 1 3/4 3/8 DOM.

This will raise the steering approximatley 3" and will almost indestructable. Will utilize the stock stabalizer point on the axle and connected to the new drag link. This will also elimiate most bumpsteer and also any rubbing issues on the diff guard.

Cost...$400 CDN....or $300 US.

When I have the system up and running I will do a write up with part numbers ect.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok, so now my question is, is it necessary? Especially with stock tires and no lift for at least the next year it seems. My plan is to eventually run 35's but would like to reduce bumpsteer right now which I can only assume will get worse with larger tires. The Currie setup is $350 about it seems and with the negative comments about their service/customer care as of late makes me hesitant to deal with them.
 

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I oriignally had the OME stabilizer. It performed pretty good and definitely better than the stock one with 33s.
The mechanic that rebuilt my front axle after the accident used an impact wrench on the drag link side of the bolt and ruined the bushing.
From the suggestions of numerous people I decided to try out the Monroe one and I am glad I did.
It is beefier than the ome and can be found for barely over $20 at a lot of Napa stores

And
It is black!!!!
 
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Hmm It may have been posted before, but do you know the exact Monroe part number. Or would I just go to NAPA and tell them what I am looking for?

I just don't ever have much luck getting the right parts from any of the auto parts stores out there, for whatever reasons and of course I am always try'n to complete the work when they are closed.
 

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Lothos said:
Ok, so now my question is, is it necessary? Especially with stock tires and no lift for at least the next year it seems. My plan is to eventually run 35's but would like to reduce bumpsteer right now which I can only assume will get worse with larger tires. The Currie setup is $350 about it seems and with the negative comments about their service/customer care as of late makes me hesitant to deal with them.
You have bumpsteer with stock suspension and tires? Usually bumpsteer is caused by changing the angles of the front linkage and the angles are pretty good from the factory. Once you go with taller suspension you start accentuating the difference between the angle of the drag link and the angle of the tie-rod. Maybe you just need a heavier steering stabilizer.

Just to make sure we are on the same page, when you say "bumpsteer" are you talking about how the Jeep will suddenly steer off of a straight line if you hit a bump with just one of the front wheels or are you meaning that it will steer when both the front wheels hit a bump at the same time and are moved up or down at the same rate?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It's a little bit of both. On some rough trails it can really wear you out during a day. Its never enough to move the vehicle more then a foot off course, but its enough to be annoying.
 

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WrathOfRubicon said:
Hmm It may have been posted before, but do you know the exact Monroe part number. Or would I just go to NAPA and tell them what I am looking for?
It is
sc2928
 

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That sounds like your steering "feel" preference calls for a heavier steering damper. Try the Monroe that everyone is talking about.
 

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SC 2928
ask for a steering stablizer for a 1997 thru 2001 most auto parts will carry the Monroe.

The Horizontal Shock Absorber for Trucks, Vans and 4WD's

• Heavy-duty mounting with additional arc-weld
• Nylon piston band helps prevent leakage past piston
• Gas cell
• Swage-hardened pressure tube
• Multi-lip fluid seal designed for smooth performance, long service life
and reduced friction
• Multi-stage, full-displaced valving automatically adjusts to changing conditions
• Heavy-duty, large-diameter chrome-plated piston rod
• Boot Kit sold separately
• Sintered iron rod guide


Acting as a horizontal shock absorber, Magnum® steering stabilizers reduce vibrations that travel through the steering system to the driver.
Installed between the main movable component of the vehicle's steering system and the frame, Magnum® steering stabilizers come complete with all mounting hardware and brackets. Easy-to-follow instructions are also included.



its about 23.00 with lifetime warr.
:wink:
 

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I bent my drag link bad enough to cause an almost death wobble effect. Dealer did an allignment changed out the stabilizer replaced my Front drive shaft didn't have a clue as usual. I put the Currie HD setup in with a cheap pro crap stabilizer and it handles better than stock with BB & 265 m/ts. Currie has always been great to deal with in all my experiences with them. I know when I put on the 3.5" RE springs that are in my garage I won't have to change anything on the steering.

It is pricey but I feel it is worth the investment. This thing is BEEF.

matt
 

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Eventually I will be getting that as well.

All you hear is compliments about it.
 
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