[03Ruby1]

I have an 03 Rubicon and I am starting my dual battery install. I already have 1 Optima yellow top that I have bee running for 2 years and will be adding another. I have a rugged ridge dual battery tray and a painless dual battery kit. I am getting materials together for the cables and terminals. I was thinking of using an Amazon terminal lug crimper. The hammer style. Is this a good option or do any of you recommend something else. I have done other with copper terminals and just filled them with solder.
I would appreciate any help or feed back on what others may have done.

Thanks Chris

 

[vsheetz]

I've one. Not pretty like a crimper. But gets the job done.

I have a local battery shop make up cables for me. Reasonably priced and professionally done.

 

[hutchman]

I have a hydraulic crimper from Harbor freight that works well on large cable.....and not too expensive

 

[PBR_Stitch]

I have made a bunch of cables over the years with the hammer style crimper. It works, just not super pretty, but cover it with some heat shrink and only you will notice.

Ron

 

[johncanfield]

I have a hydraulic crimper from Harbor freight that works well on large cable.....and not too expensive

Yup, got one of those as well. Their die sizes never seem to match my lugs but close enough for a secure electrical connection. I would avoid just filling the lug cavity with solder, crimping is much better mechanically.

 

[Wildrat]

Yup, got one of those as well. Their die sizes never seem to match my lugs but close enough for a secure electrical connection. I would avoid just filling the lug cavity with solder, crimping is much better mechanically.

Soldering is good if done right. A hot gun or iron is a must.

 

[FLLJ]

I have an 03 Rubicon and I am starting my dual battery install. I already have 1 Optima yellow top that I have bee running for 2 years and will be adding another. I have a rugged ridge dual battery tray and a painless dual battery kit. I am getting materials together for the cables and terminals. I was thinking of using an Amazon terminal lug crimper. The hammer style. Is this a good option or do any of you recommend something else. I have done other with copper terminals and just filled them with solder.
I would appreciate any help or feed back on what others may have done.

Thanks Chris

Here's an option to look at:

Genuine Dealz

I purchased custom cables several years ago for heavy duty jumper cables with quick connects, etc.
They have lots of parts and accessories as well as custom crimping services.
High quality American made and quick free shipping.

I just added the link from my bookmarks so haven't researched it in a while.

 

[Wildrat]

Here's an option to look at:

Genuine Dealz

I purchased custom cables several years ago for heavy duty jumper cables with quick connects, etc.
They have lots of parts and accessories as well as custom crimping services.
High quality American made and quick free shipping.

I just added the link from my bookmarks so haven't researched it in a while.

Genuie Dealz is a great place. They also have the heatshrink with the glue inside to make water proof connections. They also have the sleeving for building custom wire harnesses. They have good splices also. Get the heat gun out shrinkem down, they have glue in them also. The stuff is almost on par with what I used on aircraft.

 

[03Ruby1]

Thanks. Will check them out!

 

[03Ruby1]

Hello

I completed my dual battery install today, but have a question that maybe someone can shed light on

I used two Optima Yellowtops. I already had one in my JEEP so I added another. I used the rugged ridge dual battery tray since it was a Christmas present. I also use a 500amp isolator from Amazon.

I followed the instructions from the Painless dual battery kit as a guide. I have a DPDT center off switch with built in LED’s. One side common terminal goes to the isolator. One side from the secondary battery. The other side gets its power from an ignition on source.

I am not sure if I made an error or not, but the up position enable the solenoid from the secondary battery power. The down position only powers the isolator if the key is on. Does this mean that anyone can hit the switch and enable the isolator?

This may run the batteries down.

Am I missing something?

Thanks Chris.

 

[Mouse]

I think I need a drawing of the circuit or schematic to understand what is going on.

 

[03Ruby1]

I think I need a drawing of the circuit or schematic to understand what is going on.

Thanks for the help!

I wonder if the Painless Kit, 40102/40103 with switch has circuitry built in to it so that it can't operate unless the key is in the Run/Ignition position or the On position.

https://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/40102.pdf

The more I read things, the more I think it is correct and it was just a long hot day of wiring and lifting heavy batteries!

Let me know your thoughts when you can and I appreciate your feedback!

Chris

 

[Mouse]

I'd prefer to see how the switch is wired internally, but given the Painless instructions, I think we can figure this out. Also, for the sake of our discussion, your isolator = solenoid (correct?).

The correct function of the switch: The selector switch has three positions, which operates the system. Switch centered; the main battery is used only for vehicle operation. The solenoid is not activated and the auxiliary battery will not be charged. Switch activating green light position; the main and auxiliary batteries are connected for charging and starting and the green light is illuminated when the key is in the on position. Switch activating the red light position; the main and auxiliary batteries are connected together and the red light is illuminated at all times regardless of ignition switch position.

It appears that mode 2 (green light on) that the auxiliary battery is only connected while the ignition is "on."

To your question: "I am not sure if I made an error or not, but the up position enable the solenoid from the secondary battery power. The down position only powers the isolator if the key is on. Does this mean that anyone can hit the switch and enable the isolator?" Will assume that the "up" position is mode 2 described above - the isolator should close whenever the key is in the on position. For mode 3 (red light), the isolator should be closed at all times. When the switch is centered (mode 1), only the main battery should be providing power (isolator open).

 

[03Ruby1]

Thanks Mouse!

That is all correct and yes the switch in the Mode 3 can be engaged anytime even with the key out of the ignition?!

I think this has to be this way since if the main battery fails completely, you don't have a ignition source anymore to feed power to the solenoid. It comes from Mode 3 switch wired to secondary battery to the solenoid.

Chris

 

[Mouse]

Looks like a neat kit. If you have some finished pictures of it installed, I'd love to see it.

Don

 

[03Ruby1]

Mouse

I will take some pictures this weekend of it. I may add a switch behind glove box to keep people from triggering the solenoid when doors are off but why bother really.

Chris

 

[03Ruby1]

So it is complete and works great!
Most parts from Amazon!
Already had the Yellowtop in the JEEP and it was only 2 years old. I put new battery on the bottom for starting and the old on top for all accessories.

Rugged Ridge dual battery tray. Christmas gift
6 circuit switch panel. Christmas gift.
500amp Stinger Solenoid/Isolator.
DPDT blue lighted switch
All 2 gauge welding cable, wire loom and terminals.
Dual battery volt meter, only on with key on.
Dual USB ports for charging phones.

Switch up allows me to connect the batteries when the JEEP is running and switch down connects the batteries together if main fails, jump starting the JEEP.
Now I have to find a new location for my oil separator on the onboard air system. The solenoid took its spot.

 

[johncanfield]

Well done!!