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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The driver side rear axle shaft has twisted on me three times since I installed Superior chrome-moly shafts. Upon checking the axle shaft engagement into the diff. I foung the driver side to be about 3/8" less than the passenger side. The driver side splines only engage the diff. about 1" but according to the gentlemen I spoke to at Superior, that is sufficient. Has anyone had a similar experience? I know the shafts in a Dana 44 are not the same length and that the driver side is shorter than the passenger side so the problem can't be that they are installed backwards or the problem would be even worse. Thanks for any input you have.
 

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I thought the shafts were the same length. Mine are. :? I have the same shafts and have beat the hell out of them without any twisting. I am interested in this thread!
 

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The axles are different lengths, but only differ by like a half inch or so. If you're still using the factory locker then the axles go in the same way the stock ones did. If you're running an ARB, then you have to swap them.

Before I upgraded to 35-spline I had a set of Superior Discovery series axles in there with an ARB. I never experienced any twisting, but I did break an axle, which in turn took out the flange cap assembly in the ARB. Hence my upgrade to 35-splines :D The only twisting I've done is on front axles. But really, it can happen front or rear. It's just a sign that you're about to snap an axle.
 

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I've read a couple of threads of late talking about shorter axles. I don't recall EV 45's being different lengths. If they are, it's not even close to 3/8's of an inch. Anyway, no issues with EV 45's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
From the factory the left (drivers side) axle is 29.25" and the right side is 29.75". You can confirm this with any axle shaft manufacturer. I hadn't heard that you need to switch axles when you go to a ARB locker (forgot to mention that in the original post) so I called ARB and they confirmed that you do not switch axles with the installation of the ARB locker. So I still have a problem that is without a solution, but thanks for the input none the less. I hope someone will offer a solution because I am a little baffled by this one. Thanks
 

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Well obviously, any axle shaft manufacturer that claims that the two axles are interchangeable has halved his inventory and much increased his profits. But now that you have confirmed that this is not in fact true, you need to look for some other manufacturer than Dana, who will supply you with axles where one shaft is 1/2" longer than the other. You have experience that says Superior is wrong about this, and will probably have to buy another brand.

But I also agree with Atheist, whatever your tire size and driving style, you are twisting the axle past the yield point which is just below the breaking point. You need to upgrade to stronger shafts or downgrade to smaller tires, or start driving more conservatively to spare your equipment. I have broken an axle on the trail before and it truly is miserable.
 

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There's a recent post where the new Alloy shafts-now TenFactory is a fair amount shorter than the stock shafts. A lot of companies are doing this. It's not a new thing, and has been happening for years.

You are correct though about the ARB-there is NO need to change shafts or swap shafts just to run an ARB locker. I run alloy rears with my ARB but have had stockers in as well without issue. Don't make a particle bit of difference, ARB is correct, you are correct, no worries there.

Best of Luck,

Mike
 

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Superior lists the axles as having different lengths in their catalog for the EV45's. 29.2 / 29.7 half an inch difference. You can see the difference when standing the axles up next to one another, and for me they matched up with what I was taking out. Save for the bend in the stock shaft.

Now if the bearing and retaining ring are not pressed all they way to the lip, that is maybe if you stop pressing after you hear the pop, then if may not fully engage in the splines as it should. I would think though that since you had repetitive failures that that would not be the case.
 

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My bad...I thought I remember swapping them when I put in the ARB. It's been a while and several broken axles since then, so I guess my memory is a bit fuzzy.
 

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If those are EV 45's and you are pushing the yield point, all I can say is wow. There have been video's posted on this site, and others, of various models being snapped in a machine, including EV 45's. It takes a lot. I think ARB, at one point, even had some videos that made it on here. If I remember correctly, (which I may not because I don't remember a 1/2" difference from only 4yrs ago), they were snapping axles and destroying Yukon lockers to show how much stronger their stuff was.
 

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I agree, I'd be surprised if they were the Evolution series and doing that-especially for 3 different sets now. The lower end discovery series though made overseas-not so much. Course if running 37's, then you are pushing the limits of the Rubi 44's regardless of what shafts are in it.

Best of Luck,

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
They are Evolution shafts, and it twisted three times all on the drivers side where the engagement is only 1"! The twist always has started right where the axle shaft leaves the differential carrier. Since the passenger side has never twisted, I can only conclude that the shaft is too short, yet I'm not aware of anyone else having this problem. I was hoping someone out there had experienced a similar paroblem. You guys have been great with ideas. (jciocco ) had a good idea about the bearing not being pressed on all the way but I'm quite sure that isn't the problem especially three time in a row. Just to help you guys out I think I should maybe give a little more information; 35" tires, Evolution shafts (as already stated), 4:88 gears, ARB locker, and and of course a 4:1 low ratio in the transfer case. Keep up the brain storming and maybe an answer will appear. Thanks
 

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Hummm... You're setup like me. I twisted a couple factory rear shafts, but never broke. I kept one set that wasn't too bad for spares as they still work for that. The original set that twisted was when I blew the factory locker-consequently that's also when the ARB went in. While the bearing fitment is a good idea, I don't think that would be your issue here-you'd have other issues getting it to fit, mounting the brakes and everything else if that was the case, and if it was off by 1/2" or so (from memory, forget what you said the difference was now...), you'd certainly know it. When did this start? Assuming everything setup properly inside? What has lead you to determine they were twisted-what happened when it occured and what made you pull them?

Best of Luck,

Mike
 
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