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Discussion Starter #1
Don't get mad I started another tread about this, but I have a few other questions.
I crawled under the Rubi yesterday and was checking all the fluids, when I noticed that my Rear did cover is messing all of its paint, like the way they look when they get really hot. There was no water contamination, but I do have what everyone else has been talking about over at JU, my fluid is pretty dark, unlike the front. So should I just change the fluid or should I bring it back to the dealer, just in case there is any damage? It is not acting funny, and I have about 5k miles on the original fluid.


Also, so whats the deal with all this fluid stuff. I am not going to go Mopar, I want to go RedLine being I am a firm believer in there products, and it did wonders for my YJ.

But after reading everything everywhere about the fluids, no one really says what I needed to hear. Does ours take a LSD addative or not? I dont want to take some random guys thoughts on it, like a lot of guys were saying over at JU. One guy even said to over fill the gear oil by parking on an incline... :lol:

Thanks Guys

Damon
 

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i went Mopar...
my Rubi has 5200 miles and the oil was ewwwwwwwwwww nasty.
the black is from the gears breaking in..was lots of gunk in the cover.
the magnet plugs were full of crap.
ALL NORMAL...for gear breakin.
i added the FM it says to add on the metal tag

"75/140 SYN 60oz. + FM 4oz."

the fron diff says "75/140 SYN 40oz."
i added the 4oz.FM to the front due to the same
gear set is in the front as the rear.. made sense to me.
talking to PBR the dealer added 4oz. to his front when they did the re-seal
on his.
i do think there is a mis-label on the front Dana 44.

:wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
But the front is not a LSD??? But I also hear that the addative is a gear conditioner. So I guess it cant heart,

But what do you guys think about my paint peeling part, overheating?
 

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NomadJeep said:
But the front is not a LSD??? But I also hear that the addative is a gear conditioner. So I guess it cant heart,

But what do you guys think about my paint peeling part, overheating?
Take the JP for a 5 mile rip up the highway and then touch the diff. If you can't hold you hand to it then I would have that looked at. I have some paint that is questionable also and I have found that it is just the paint it's self and not a worry.

Cheers
 

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Sorry commin in late. I added 75w 140 synthetic to the front and rear diffs until they came to the bottom of the fill hole, tested with my pinky. I added some FM but it's not necessary. Don't overfill your diffs, also I think the tags are wrong, I didn't add 64oz to the rear nor the full amount to what the tag read on the front. The diffs simply wouldn't hold all of it. I also saw where the guy said to park on an inclined driveway, bad advice just fill to the hole and if you overfill just let it run out, when it stops plug it.
 

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fluid

I've been using AMSOIL and no additive, works like a charm. When pulling the cover for clean out it takes the full 64oz.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well I am a firm believer in RedLine Synthetic oil products. Ever since I put it in my YJ and it stopped my second gear from grinding when cold. I had tried regular synthetic but it still did it. Until I was recommend, and tried Redline.

So I called Redline to ask them about 75W/140. They only list a 75W/140NS on there web site, but when I talked with them. They have a non NS to. The diff is, the NS has no LS addative, and the regular already has it. So for all you guys to know, Redline makes a 75W/140 with the addative. I was able to order it from a place in MD being my local dealers did not have it. It cost $8. a qt.

Hope this helps.

Damon
 

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Also calls for a synthetic, use NS at your own risk!
 

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I had to change my rear diff oil at 3000 miles it was blacker than the ace of spades. The front diff was clean. I put Mobil 1 80/140 in the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
bbusch said:
Also calls for a synthetic, use NS at your own risk!
Yeah Redline only makes synthetic. I only order with the addative in it. It does not cost any extra, and they say it also helps condition gears.
 

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In regaurd to parking on an incline to fill the rear diff, I'm running five inches of suspension lift and a CV driveshaft. Of course I had to rotate the diff to line up the pinion shaft with the driveshaft. With the front of the diff rotated up the fill hole is rotated down. So the more you have to clock the diff the less fluid it will hold before running out the fill hole. Wouldn't it make sence to park on enough of an incline to put the rear diff at a closer to stock angle to insure that you get the proper amount of lube in? That's what I did and why I did it. It's been 6000 miles now with no problems.

Brad
 

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Brad W. said:
In regaurd to parking on an incline to fill the rear diff, I'm running five inches of suspension lift and a CV driveshaft. Of course I had to rotate the diff to line up the pinion shaft with the driveshaft. With the front of the diff rotated up the fill hole is rotated down. So the more you have to clock the diff the less fluid it will hold before running out the fill hole. Wouldn't it make sence to park on enough of an incline to put the rear diff at a closer to stock angle to insure that you get the proper amount of lube in? That's what I did and why I did it. It's been 6000 miles now with no problems.

Brad
Brad you are correct. That is a good practice to get into when you change your diff fliud. You will need to put more fluid in so that the oil will make it to the pinion bearings and such. You got to have a good quantity to slosh around.

Cheers
 
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Fluid change

Well after reading the posts about how bad the diff fluid may be I changed mine. Since I wanted it done yesterday I had to settle for Mopar. Anyway my rubi has 1388 miles and luckily the fluid came out pretty clear with hardly any metallic deposits on the plugs. I probably didn't need to change it after all but now I've got some synthetic in there. Next time though I will definitely be using a pump to put the fluid in. Let's just say I'm glad I bought extra fluid.
 

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Re: Fluid change

jaco said:
Next time though I will definitely be using a pump to put the fluid in. Let's just say I'm glad I bought extra fluid.
ok....that last statement call for more details


:D
 
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I spilled quite a bit of the fluid trying to use the bottle and the little pour spout it came with. Until the bottle got too empty I just squeezd and the fluid shot into the hole even with the bottle in an upright position. I had to keep refilling the bottle for this to keep working. Finally I got enough into the diff. It was messy so I'm gonna get one of those suck guns next time.
 

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jaco said:
I spilled quite a bit of the fluid trying to use the bottle and the little pour spout it came with. Until the bottle got too empty I just squeezd and the fluid shot into the hole even with the bottle in an upright position. I had to keep refilling the bottle for this to keep working. Finally I got enough into the diff. It was messy so I'm gonna get one of those suck guns next time.
i kept it simple....
used tubing attacthed to the spout approx 8" with a hose clamp
held up higer then the diff
goes right in.
:wink:
 

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I posted this on JU, but will repeat it here.

FYI - Mobile 1 makes both the Mopar Synthetic Engine Oil and the Mopar Synthetic 75W-140 Gear Lube.

The Mobile 1 75W-140 (and Mopar Syn 75W-140) have a Friction Modifier in it already for Limited Slip differentials, you do not need to add anything to it.

There is a Mobile 1 75W-90 synthetic, about half the price, not the same stuff and does not have a FM in it.

There are several companies making a 75W-140 synthetic (Coastal is one) they do not have a FM in them.

Does the TRU-LOK need a Friction Modifier - NO, it is not a clutch operated Limited Slip differential.

Does the Dana 44 tag say use a FM? Yes, because it is tagged for a Limted Slip differential (Trac-Lok - clucth operated), that's what Dana makes. Will adding a FM hurt anything in the TRU-LOK, no. Use it if you want to, makes no difference.
 

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FWIW....Someone told me (on JU) that some gear driven limited slips require the additive. I figure it can't hurt to add it.

I also pulled mine on a incline to add fluid after my lift install/diff rotation. Can't hurt to add the required quantity, correct? Also, I noticed that my front diff wouldn't hold the 44oz, even on an incline. So I drove it around a little and checked the fluid level......it went down enough that I was able to add the correct amount.

Amsoil says to do some figure 8's to work the fluid out the shafts.
 

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Thanks for all the helpful info I plan on changing the fluid when my diff guards go on.

Adam
 

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canadianrubi said:
Thanks for all the helpful info I plan on changing the fluid when my diff guards go on.

Adam
Anyone off hand know what the manuel says the 1st gear dif fluid change should be? I have about 6000 miles and after reading all these posts maby i should change my dif fluid...hmmmmm...
 
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