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Mark,

Did you order the piston from Napa or the caliper. I am seeing this part number on their website SE4890S. Can you confirm if that is the part. The piston itself is 17.99 and the caliper with the steel piston is 33.

I ordered phenolic pistons from Rock Auto. I have misplaced the p/n for the metal pistons from NAPA. Online at NAPA they did not have them in stock. You should have no issues with phenolic, not unless you are hauling a heavy trailer or some other activity that the brakes could get extremely overheated.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I ordered phenolic pistons from Rock Auto. I have misplaced the p/n for the metal pistons from NAPA. Online at NAPA they did not have them in stock. You should have no issues with phenolic, not unless you are hauling a heavy trailer or some other activity that the brakes could get extremely overheated.

I couldn't find rear caliper with Metal Piston or Metal Piston for rear caliper but was able to order front with Metal Piston (P/N SE4890S). I am assuming fronts with metal are more important since fronts brake do most of the work. Since the price difference is not much I went with Metal Piston to avoid any issue down the line.
Parts are in but I am taking my time cleaning up and adjusting parking brake which are rusted mostly the dust shield on which they ride. (i put new shoes little while back so need some cleaning and grease only).
I couldn't find any good write up on doing the rear brake lines but looks like I will have to get hard and soft line separate to replace the one piece line on now. Will report back how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I just did my brake lines on an '06 LJR. The rear brake lines, as you have probably noticed, are different on the Rubi than on other models, in that they are a combination of hard and soft lines.
Dr. Interrnet,

Did you do a 2 piece line as replacement ? Can you please share the pics ? I purchased braided lines from AEV a while back (label says 2002 -2004 TJ) but I am thinking I can add a hard line to the bracket on end of axle and use the flexible hose from there to caliper.

Does anyone know why the back lines were one piece instead of 2 like front on the Rubicons. Is is OK to replace back with 2 piece line?
 

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Dr. Interrnet,

Did you do a 2 piece line as replacement ? Can you please share the pics ? I purchased braided lines from AEV a while back (label says 2002 -2004 TJ) but I am thinking I can add a hard line to the bracket on end of axle and use the flexible hose from there to caliper.

Does anyone know why the back lines were one piece instead of 2 like front on the Rubicons. Is is OK to replace back with 2 piece line?

I would like to replace my lines with braided, at least the front lines. My Jeep is a stock Rubicon Sahara with no lift or anything.

All the braided lines I have looked at have been for Jeeps with some kind of lift.
I'm guessing the reason the rear was done the way it was is because the rears only give about 30% of braking power so no need for extra pressure, I'm only guessing though.
If it weren't so hot here I would go ahead and put the new rotors on, but I guess they can wait, everything else does. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #25
New rotors, pads and caliper (i decided to go with new calipers as the old calipers were in pretty bad shape and reviving them was not worth it when new ones were not that expensive).

20190824_183348.jpg

Waiting on the soft hoses for rear brake to arrive. I went ahead and replaced the rear brake line from the Junction box down as per comments that they collapse from inside. I bought the plastic coated lines from NAPA the bend pretty easily with hand.
In the process of removing the line from passenger side i may have pulled a hose from the differential. It goes in a hole on top of differential on passenger side. What is that hose for ? How do i get it back in ?

Other than install has been smooth. Its taking more time to clean things than to install. I pulled the calipers from Front and cleaned things pretty good. Surprisingly I don't have the notches, on the part of knuckle where caliper slides, as mentioned bu lot of folks on the forum. I read that the caliper is floating caliper so do i grease that part fo the knuckle or i can buy clips like the one on rear.

Any tips on installing the front rotors with black magic pads?
 

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That hose from the rear diff is most likely the locker air hose. There should be a small right angle flared tube for that air hose. Sometimes they will rust and break off at the diff case, not a good situation.

I didn't use any lube when I changed my front pads and rotor (with Black Magic) - nothing jumps out that is unusual about changing the pads (and rotor), just the break-in requirements.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Nice.... would've been a good time to brush excess rust off the hub/axle ends. Anti-seize on the wheel studs is a good idea too :wink2:
It looks worse than what it with shiny new rotors :) plus I was tired fo scrapping the rusty dust guard and knuckle.

Here is the tube I am talking about

20190827_203157.jpg

Here is where it goes in the differential

20190827_203319.jpg
 

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Did you follow that hose? If it's the locker air line it will lead forward to the air pumps which are in the area of the transfer case. Does the rear locker work? Turn on the rear locker and check the hose end for air coming out.
 

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It looks worse than what it with shiny new rotors :) plus I was tired fo scrapping the rusty dust guard and knuckle.

Here is the tube I am talking about

View attachment 71174

Here is where it goes in the differential

View attachment 71176
It sure appears to be the air line with the 90* connector broken off inside the hose end.
The location in relation to the indicator switch is what I'm basing it on.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Does anyone know the gap between Master Cylinder piston and push pin from brake booster. Reading through some stuff i am thinking that since i am replacing my MC i may need to check/adjust the gap. Is that true ? New piston is OEM replacement from Centric so should be same in all ways. I really don't want to trial and error with driving. Is measuring the piston length out from MC good way of measuring the gap since i didn't adjust the push rod in brake booster so as long as the piston length is same the gap should be same.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Thank you everyone for all your help and responses. Brakes are all done and buttoned up. I had minor hick up bench bleeding MC but using the bleeding kit helped, i was trying one port at a time and that didn't work very well.
One of the hard lines, one from the distributor to the rear passenger was too long and i didn't cut it so took a while to route and bend. I rented tool from Autozone but it doesn't work very well. Factory bends are more like 90 degrees but with bending tool i get rounded bend which is not very helpful especially with the distributor side. At some point I may redo the lines but for now they are good as i have to get it back on road for Mrs to drive.
Did the brake in as per instructions ..i think there is a difference in stopping, but that may be psychological, as I put in the hard work I want to see a difference. I will let Mrs decide is she sees any difference.
And yes the broken hose is indeed air locker, I hate what salt and chemicals do to the underside fo the jeep.
I see the broken connector. How do I fix it ? I probably have to open the differential which I am planning to do anyways for changing oil so it would be a good time

20190902_121747.jpg

At first I though the hose goes in this hole but I was so wrong. I think its just a design which servers no purpose.

20190902_121759.jpg
 

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Those pics really hurt me.
I feel for you guys up north.
The opening should be at the top passenger side of the housing. (see attached image)

I hoping you have enough usable nipple left to simply reconnect the line.
Several people have used Ty-Wraps (aka zip ties) to help secure the line to the nipple because of air leaks.

I'm hoping it goes well, but if you need to replace the actuator plate here's a source:
https://www.crownautomotive.net/Axle-Locker-Actuator/52104611AA.html
 

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Those pics really hurt me.
I feel for you guys up north.
The opening should be at the top passenger side of the housing. (see attached image)

I hoping you have enough usable nipple left to simply reconnect the line.
Several people have used Ty-Wraps (aka zip ties) to help secure the line to the nipple because of air leaks.

I'm hoping it goes well, but if you need to replace the actuator plate here's a source:
https://www.crownautomotive.net/Axle-Locker-Actuator/52104611AA.html
I feel for them too, the only time I see rust in AZ is when I am looking at pics of jeeps out of state. Always makes the think of that movie Fargo and them talking about the TruCoat, I wonder if those undercoats really work.
 
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