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Discussion Starter #1
Because it looks like it. 05 LJ. 3” of suspension lift and a SAVVY tummy tuck. I have some bad driveline vibes above 50mph. I adjusted the pinion angle and it helped a little but while under the Jeep I spotted this DS angle at the t-case and it looks gross. Am I in the right track?






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Discussion Starter #2
From this picture angle and u joint angle it doesn’t look as bad. DS angle is 15 degrees.






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I don't know if you NEED one... but for the money, it's nice knowing you won't ask yourself the question again.

Put it on the lift with the rear axle at full droop. Does the axle rotate 360* without binding/rubbing?

I have one on my '04 SWB Rubi with 4" lift.
 

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I've been running the factory shaft on my LJ with 3" lift and Medic TT for 125K without vibration. Except when the u-joints were letting me know they were tired.

There is a MML installed too, which definitely helps with the angles.

If I'm remembering right (never a sure thing...), I had to adjust my pinion angle down slightly (not up, as you would with a CV) to match the t-case.

Anyway... CV might be your solution. But you can definitely make the factory non-CV live a long happy life on the LJ with your lift height.

- DAA
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks! Yesterday I rotated my pinion down and pulled my front DS which eliminated my driveline vibes. I appreciate the responses!




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I have the same problem and more. I put in a HD 1350 CV rear shaft in my 06 auto LJ. I disconnected the front shaft, strapped u joint and bungeed the shaft to the frame. This takes that shaft vibration out of play. I was able to get 72 mph before vibration began. Many tries adjusting the control arms/pinion angles to get this result.
Reinstalled the front driveshaft and vibrations began again at 55mph. Took to local shop. Balanced OEM front shaft, adjusted angles numerous times and got 64 mph as best result. Local shop said this is common problem with LJ 3” lift and 1” body lift and recommend changing to manual lockout hubs. I like shift on the fly. I’ve decided on trailer, beadlocks and under 60mph.
This is my experience. Not what I wanted and very disappointing. Cost me $1900 for driveshaft and hours of local shop trying to fix. Hope this helps.
 

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Once you get to a certain level of suspension and chassis modifications for serious rock crawling, I think at that point you don't have a daily driver but a trailer queen.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have the same problem and more. I put in a HD 1350 CV rear shaft in my 06 auto LJ. I disconnected the front shaft, strapped u joint and bungeed the shaft to the frame. This takes that shaft vibration out of play. I was able to get 72 mph before vibration began. Many tries adjusting the control arms/pinion angles to get this result.
Reinstalled the front driveshaft and vibrations began again at 55mph. Took to local shop. Balanced OEM front shaft, adjusted angles numerous times and got 64 mph as best result. Local shop said this is common problem with LJ 3” lift and 1” body lift and recommend changing to manual lockout hubs. I like shift on the fly. I’ve decided on trailer, beadlocks and under 60mph.
This is my experience. Not what I wanted and very disappointing. Cost me $1900 for driveshaft and hours of local shop trying to fix. Hope this helps.
That's discouraging. I'd sooner drop the TT and BL before dealing with the vibrations. Seems like there has to be a way...

Once you get to a certain level of suspension and chassis modifications for serious rock crawling, I think at that point you don't have a daily driver but a trailer queen.
3" suspension and 1" BL shouldn't be that level.
 
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I'm not seeing how a body lift is even a factor in driveline vibration?

3" suspension lift on an LJ, even in conjunction with an aggressive tummy tuck, no way are vibrations at speed to be considered normal or unavoidable. Even after 125k miles with 4.88's and a 6 speed, mine runs up to the speed limiter at 90+ MPH with no vibes and one hand steering. And mine is not unusual.

- DAA
 

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Discussion Starter #10
BL doesn’t. I meant tummy tuck.


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I was responding to the guy who said: "Local shop said this is common problem with LJ 3” lift and 1” body lift and recommend changing to manual lockout hubs."

His local shop is feeding him a line of bull crap.

- DAA
 

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To the guy who called BS. Contact Mike Starkebaum at 4x4Land in Topeka Ks. He’s been doing it for 25 years and has an Rubicon LJ himself. I’d love to have different results.
 

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The recommendation to change to manual lockout hubs seems odd; I guess it could help if this is for the 3" suspension lift and 1" BL where the rear of the transfer case is aligned lower than the front output creating problems with the front driveshaft u-joints. Unlocking the hubs would prevent the front driveshaft from spinning while cruising down the road.
 
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^^ yeah, I don't get the manual hub recommendation either ^^
 

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I don't even get the claim that it's a common problem with LJs on 3" lifts. It's not.

- DAA
 

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Discussion Starter #16
^^ yeah, I don't get the manual hub recommendation either ^^

Stops the front driveshaft from spinning which apparently is the cause of many people's driveline vibrations


I don't even get the claim that it's a common problem with LJs on 3" lifts. It's not.

- DAA

I've read many accounts of LJs with 3" lift and a tummy tuck having driveline vibrations. It's certainly more common than I'd hope. I just don't know what causes the front DS vibrations.
 

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Stops the front driveshaft from spinning which apparently is the cause of many people's driveline vibrations
Right, I got that but that's not addressing the root cause of the vibration. Having manual hubs would be great if you flat towed though.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Right, I got that but that's not addressing the root cause of the vibration. Having manual hubs would be great if you flat towed though.


I agree. I also don’t want to spend the money on a manual hub swap.

My plan is to rebuild the front DS. Maybe even give Woods a ring and talk to them. If that doesn’t fix the vibes I’ll go after the pinion angle. I’m not sure what I’ll do after that, but it may involve finding a way to tilt the drivetrain.


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I read on another forum that the root cause was the transfer case shaft out of balance. The guy went through all options and then tore into tcase and found it to be the cause of the vibrations. IDK. I’m putting mine on a trailer, running beadlocks and may get a Currie D-60 setup someday. Tired of spending money on mine for awhile. Gonna wheel it till something breaks. Moab in late spring, Ouray in late summer. 67 GTO conv project starts in spring. Lol You guys figure it out, let us all know. Peace
 

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Good luck with the Goat. That will be a treasure.
 
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