Chris04 said:
Ok so no movement in it (or little as possible), how do you change it out? I have check some prices on it seems to be under 19$.
Does the old one have to be pressed out as well as the new one?
For a better mousetrap look at the Clayton site. They make a bushing that has a 9/16" bore instead of the 10MM. Much more substantial. It's not bad for price either. You'll need to weld a tab on the back of the new nut as it is really hard to get a wrench in there. You'll see what I am talking about if you look at the stock set-up. I always thought the stock bolt is a little wimpy in there.
Getting the old bushing out is a bear! To remove mine I drilled the rubber out as much as I could then used a punch to beat the sleeve out. I actually used a Rubicon Express 1687 bushing in mine with a grease zerk. The RE bushing needs to be modified to fit.
Here you can see 2 RE bushings side by side. I had to cut it down to fit in the track bar housing and the washer is a spacer so the whole works fits snug in the axle bracket. The inner sleeve does not need cutting, just the poly bushing.
So it ends up looking like this.
When the bushing halves are installed in the track bar there is a 1/16" or so gap between them to accept grease.
Note the washer fits over the inner sleeve. Also note the grease zerk.
I installed the washer on the back (rearward) side of the bushing, but it really does not matter which side it's on.
This works pretty good, but I think the Clayton bushing is a better deal. I just did not know about it when I did mine.
BTW, the RE bushing uses a 1/2" bolt.