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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I’m about to remove my 42RLE transmission and replace it with a re-manufactured unit in my 2005 LJ. I have the Jeep up on the lift and have removed the exhaust system (for room and a y-pipe weld repair), belly pan and drive shafts. I have never done this before and welcome any advice from those who have completed this process themselves. What to do, what not to do, what makes the process easier, what did you learn, etc. I wanted to rent a telescoping transmission jack, but nobody near me rents them. Closest is about a three hour round trip. So, I’ll probably just purchase a cheap one since I’ll probably only use it once.

I’m also changing engine oil, filter, diff fluids, diff gaskets, transfer case fluid, brake fluid, front and rear brake pads, pins, boots, etc., turning all rotors, oil pan gasket, rear main seal, valve cover gasket, etc. I have quite a few codes, so I’ll also be inspecting and repairing multiple areas of the wire harness. And, most likely be obtaining a WranglerFix PCM.


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If you are even entertaining a PCM replacement, I would do that before all that work. Your Jeep brain making inaccurate decisions could make things appear to be broken. I know a guy who went through two transmissions and it was the PCM all along.
 

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I have no idea where you are located, but you are welcome to use my telescoping tranny jack (I'm an hour north of San Antonio.) I've never pulled a 42RLE so no words of advice other than reading the FSM - they should detail the process.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If you are even entertaining a PCM replacement, I would do that before all that work. Your Jeep brain making inaccurate decisions could make things appear to be broken. I know a guy who went through two transmissions and it was the PCM all along.
Good point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have no idea where you are located, but you are welcome to use my telescoping tranny jack (I'm an hour north of San Antonio.) I've never pulled a 42RLE so no words of advice other than reading the FSM - they should detail the process.
That’s a generous offer, but I live about an hour East of Dallas. Thank you though.
 

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I never quite understood turning rotors. Why grind off some of the remaining thickness? If the surface is a little rough the new pads will quickly wear into them. If they are warped, resurfacing won't accomplish much. And new rotors are pretty cheap anyway.
 

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I’m about to remove my 42RLE transmission and replace it with a re-manufactured unit in my 2005 LJ. I have the Jeep up on the lift and have removed the exhaust system (for room and a y-pipe weld repair), belly pan and drive shafts. I have never done this before and welcome any advice from those who have completed this process themselves. What to do, what not to do, what makes the process easier, what did you learn, etc. I wanted to rent a telescoping transmission jack, but nobody near me rents them. Closest is about a three hour round trip. So, I’ll probably just purchase a cheap one since I’ll probably only use it once.

I’m also changing engine oil, filter, diff fluids, diff gaskets, transfer case fluid, brake fluid, front and rear brake pads, pins, boots, etc., turning all rotors, oil pan gasket, rear main seal, valve cover gasket, etc. I have quite a few codes, so I’ll also be inspecting and repairing multiple areas of the wire harness. And, most likely be obtaining a WranglerFix PCM.


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my 03 requires computer reset to accommodate the new transmission
 

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He’s got a 2005 with four harness connectors. We have three. The fourth is for transmission control. WranglerFix sends out the 05 and 06 PCMs ready to go according to the VIN number.
 

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42RLE's , no matter what year, should be reset with a scan tool after replacement.

Now to be realistic, many are replaced in home garages and they turn out fine, I have always reset any I have been involved with and recommend you to do the same.

There are two parts. One is a scan tool assisted "quick learn". You force the transmission to shift into all the gears to learn what the CVI's should be. CVI is the Clutch Volume Index. It is the required amount of time it takes to fill a clutch pack. If you don't do this it can shift pretty bad until the pcm learns it on its own. I really don't think this is a big deal as long as you drive it easy for the fist hundred miles or so.

The other part is to reset the torque convertor values. some times this gets done with a Quick learn and with some pcm's you need to do this separate. I feel this is more important because the torque convertor lock up clutch is not very durable. I feel that if you have a convertor that has failed and you put a new one in the shift that the pcm will perform would be a value from the worn part and could greatly reduce the life expectancy of the new part.

If you replace a PCM, Valve body, Transmission solenoid pack, or transmission assembly you should do this.

Now like I said transmissions are replaced all the time without this being done but for a small added cost after the repair is done take it somewhere and pay the $50 to do it right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I ordered a transmission through Best Buy Transmissions last night. I read a ton of 42RLE posts on several forums and everyone that used BBT, was happy with their transmissions. Well, I received a text stating that my order was placed on hold. I called them and they stated that they no longer remanufacture the 42RLE. I guess I’ll order a Jasper. Almost $1,000 more though. Bummer.
 
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