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Discussion Starter #1
First off, I finally hit the 12k mark and changed out my diff fluids. Noting that my front diff fluid came out nice and new looking with a modest amount of metal powder attatched to the drain plug magnets. The rear came out near black and quite a bit of the same metal dusting paste on the plugs. I decided to also remove the rear's cover plate and clean it out thoroughly. There was a metal paste like coating over everything although alot thinner than from the plugs. Aside from that all looked well. Whats funny is the manual stated 85W90 for the gear lube and noted 75W140 if you towed but on the diffs themselves the tags stated 75W140. Sadly I had already gone to the store and got the former. Not knowing what the viscosity numbers mean I am wondering the difference between the two and if its a big deal that I ran the 85 instead.

The other thing I finally got done was wiring the old Daylighters I had onto the new A pillar light mounts. I had gotten a KC wiring kit that came with the relay/switch instead of a seperate relay. Sinec I planned on another military switch from Kilby to go next to my OBA switch I decided to mount the KC switch down below the bank of OEM switches in front of the Tcase shifter. Let me tell you my newfound joy of a side cutter bit for a dremel. I had seen these for B&D drills and finally found one for a dremel and decided to give it a whirl :lol: The darn thing cost me $25 but was well worth it. It makes a nice clean professional looking hole just the shape you need. Wires to the KC's I snuck under the cowl as I did not want to drill into the body at all. I'm sure I may rethink that plan later on, but at least right now I can change my mind. To ground them I ran a wire to the cowl screw right next to the mount.

My snorkel will be here this week and I need to get that on before Saturday as I have a date out at the local mudhole known as the Mounds. ( Medic, you gotta come man. I need more Rubi support out there :twisted: ) Pics will come soon as I've been very busy keeping the big brown truck driver employed :D
 

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Lothos, I've been real busy with my skids, my farm and work. I am planning on a few trips there this winter, right now planning on the Badlands on the 18 of October. After the moundzaloopa in Feb, my Rubi will be up on blocks for a few months for the next set of mods.

On a side note, I have had royal purple in my diffs for about 3k, and havent checked yet, but I did get the same metal residue on the plugs as well. When I changed my rear diff in my dodge which has 4.56 gears and a locker in it it was black and consistant with water. Now I use royal purple with Lucas gear lube. I'll see how that faired here in a few weeks, when I change that out again...Jerry
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Now thats no fun for a Jeep to sit on blocks for months on end. I would love to go to Badlands but already have a trip scheduled that weekend to Silver Lake. I'll make it to the Badlands eventually. My club goes at least once a year and usually the same weekend I am out at MIS for Nascar.
 

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Yep the first fluid change on the rear diff was pitch black for me also. The front was good as new.

I ordered 75W-140 synthetic from Amsoil and put them in at 1500 miles. Now I have almost 7000 miles and yesterday I checked the fluid in the rear diff again - good as new! Amsoil is awesome!

Do yourself a favor - order 75W-140 synthetics from Amsoil for about $9.50/quart. This is top of the line oil. 75W-140 is very hard to find otherwise.

And no I am not an Amsoil reseller. Just came away real impressed with their product after checking my diffs yesterday.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Actually, the 75W140 was right next to the 85 I grabbed. Granted it was Mobil1 or QS, I don't remember which, but given the $2.99 a quart I can change it often enough to make me happy. Would axle seals ( as in my drivetrain thread) help?
 

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Dont forget the
Slip-Lock Differential Additive from Amsoil.

If you go offroad or tow, 75w-140 is the recommended type.
 
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