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Discussion Starter #1
I need to get new wheels and thought about putting 35s on them. Currently on 33s. Here are some pictures of the garage with the Jeep's front and back in the doorway. I do have a rake from back to front. The entrance sill is 6 inches from the top of the back of the hardtop. What do you think? Would 35s work?
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35's only lift the jeep up 1 inch. So the garage would work but how about the Jeep. If it were mine and I liked the set up I would stick with what I had. If you go 35's are you going to have to modify lift, change gears etc.
 

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Some 35" tires aren't really 35", you need to check the specs for the particular tire. I would also check the specs for your current 33s so you can make a more accurate evaluation of height change. If you had a TJ, I would also suggest sticking with 33s, however since you have the LJ 35s add quite a bit of capability for rock crawling. Sometimes an inch more clearance makes a big difference doing an obstacle.

If you don't have a tummy tuck, I recommend starting there.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks everyone. I got BF Goodrich on now and will probably stick with those if I upsize. I'll have to visit a store and talk with someone about it.
 

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You are measuring from the flat part of the roof, measure from the top of the ribs on the roof. It's going to be close. You might also be able to adjust the upper travel stop on your garage door opener so the bottom of the door travels a little farther up the track and give you more clearance.
 

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Are your 33's pretty worn down? Going from worn out 33's to brand new 35's will make a pretty good jump, probably closer to 2 inches.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I too see that the garage door could travel a bit further up. I have 80% thread left on the tires. Going from 17 inch wheels to 16 inchers so need new tires. I got it all set up for 35s; lift, gears. My front u joints squeak and need new ball joints so going to have fun and do some maintenance and upgrades up front since I need to tear into it anyway. I've been saving up for this me time, took a week off of work. Same efficacy as counseling but just as expensive so I'll choose to work on the jeep. But hey I'll talk to the dogs as I work...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well. Ran into a snag. I need new wheels and tires. I went to several local places to see what would fit and whatnot and am not getting good info. I am doing the Yukon hub kit upfront so it needs to be 5x5.5 plus enough inner bore to clear it...I'm also switching out the back axles to run a 5x5.5 lug set. I am currently running the AEV Pintlers which have around 5.25 backspacing but I also have an adapter that is 1.5 inches so that it ends up around 3.75 backspacing and that is beautiful with clearances. I don't want to run spacers so....what sort of backspacing would be enough? I was thinking to run 16x8 like the original Moabs (which had 5 inches of BS if I remember correctly....I ran 315/75R/16 on them and I needed 1.5-inch spacers to clear everything). I see a lot of 4.5 wheels out there... There is a Pro Comp wheel with 4 inch BS I think would work but it is on backorder a month out...I could wait but I'm kinda limited on time as I am doing the work this week. I also am not very impressed with most of the fancy-looking wheels out there, but that's my taste... So the question is what would work in this setup?
 

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IMO, you need 3.75” backspace to run 35” rubber.
Wheels are difficult to find in anything other than 15” with 3.75” backspace.
Check out Trail Gear, they have 17” bead lock wheels with 3.75” backspace.
If you go to the 4” backspace wheel you will sacrifice steering angle as you’ll have to adjust your steering stops or you’ll run against the control arms in tight turns.
 

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Bob has a good answer for you. I believe my walker-evans wheels are 3.75" backspace (17x9's)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I almost have the jeep put back together. Wheels are the last issue. Going with the Walker Evans beadlocks as mentioned above. The questions: do I need to buy special tires made for beadlocks or can I still get the Toyo's I wanted? Do I need to balance them? Some say do some don't some use beads. Also, I've never put together beadlock wheels before....watching youtube videos, and seems straightforward enough...
 

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As long as the rim width is compatible with the tire specifications, you're good to go for whatever tire you want. I had my Trailready beadlocks traditionally balanced, never used balance beads. My Nitto Trail Grapplers were very true and needed very little weight. By the way, when I bought my Trailready beadlocks, they were the only ones that were completely made in the USA. The others were/are cast in China and the wheel blanks machined in the US.

Probably no chain/national tire shops will touch a beadlock wheel, I was lucky to have a local shop that mounted my Nittos to the Trailready wheels
 

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Silicon spray is your friend along with your Dewalt 1/4” impact driver.
Labor intensive, not difficult. Make sure you have a torque wrench. Use anti-sieze on the bolts and don’t lose any washers.
And, be sure you get the in’s in and the outs, out. (Tread direction).
My Nitto’s could be mounted 2 different ways.
I had my balanced with a Road Force machine at America’s Tire. (they would not install them) Personally don’t like balance beads as they don’t do what they say they are supposed to do. My experience with them.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So changing the lugs to 5x5.5 I need to get some new rotors for the rear. Does anyone have any idea what would fit stock calipers in the rear?
 
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