I just spoke to Dave at Northridge, I asked him the same question, he said do the Ten factory front and rear shafts and I should be good to go. Is there anything he missed?
35's on factory wheels with spacers , what will break next?
Im just curious what will break next, I have 35" Durartacs on factory wheels with spacers. The only thing that has broken so far was the spider gears inside the rear locker, got it fixed under warranty. Drivetrain is all stock with 4.88 gears. With moderate wheeling a couple times a year, what do i need to look into replacing next? Should i do these things proactive or wait till things break??
Thank you for advice from your experience..
Thank you for advice from your experience..
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Is it a DD? If, so, then contact Blaine at Savvy and get the centric premium front rotors and the black magic pads. Best advice is to stay gentle on the skinny. I've got over a year (15K) on my 35s with upgraded front shafts, 5.13s and the only thing that I HAD to upgrade to is the Currie HD tie rod through a trail mishap.
It is a DD. Did you do the rear shafts also?f9k9 said:Is it a DD? If, so, then contact Blaine at Savvy and get the centric premium front rotors and the black magic pads. Best advice is to stay gentle on the skinny. I've got over a year (15K) on my 35s with upgraded front shafts, 5.13s and the only thing that I HAD to upgrade to is the Currie HD tie rod through a trail mishap.
I'm currently only on 33's but grenaded my rear locker early on after the switch to 4.88's. I see 35's for trail use only in my future BUT I'm already equipped to handle them. With an ARB in the rear with alloy shafts, I should be OK there. Will upgrade to superior Evo's when I do the 35's up front for trail use. I definitely agree with the above on the brake upgrade. You'll want all the stopping power you can get. There is NO other pad on the market that compares to the Savvy Black Magics-the EBC Yellows don't hold a candle to them. If you don't already have the Vanco upgrade, he does offer these in standard factory TJ brake configuration for the pads. When you do the pads, do the centric premium rotors at the same time. You'll be glad you did. It's a very in-expensive brake upgrade that will handle 35's just fine. He's currently OUT of stock for the 48mm Vanco upgrade but does have the factory stuff IN stock. Contact Blaine for info. With what you have so far, you should be OK. Assuming you've already done the steering???
Best of Luck,
Mike
Best of Luck,
Mike
Mike ,
Thank you so much, I LOVE this forum. I do have the Currie steering setup. I had my rear locker grenade a couple months ago. I am scared of it happening again. There will be an ARB in the future. I just saw the post about the group buy in for RCV's. Now im really in a pickle. The problem is I rarely get to actually go wheeling, but when i do, I dont want anything to break. Maybe I will just do the front and rear Ten Factory shafts for a lot less.
Thank you so much, I LOVE this forum. I do have the Currie steering setup. I had my rear locker grenade a couple months ago. I am scared of it happening again. There will be an ARB in the future. I just saw the post about the group buy in for RCV's. Now im really in a pickle. The problem is I rarely get to actually go wheeling, but when i do, I dont want anything to break. Maybe I will just do the front and rear Ten Factory shafts for a lot less.
I drove mine for over a year with 37s before I could afford to upgrade shafts and steering setup. I wheel pretty hard, not heavy on the gas and I am not afraid to try a different line if feel I need too much gas to climb an obstacle. If you are doing more rock crawling than mud you can probably wait to do shafts. I also think your choice of tires makes a difference. If you have the new MTRs they are some heavy suckers I would upgrade. It all depends on your wallet, but if you wheel some but not a ton and are not related to Tim Taylor you can probably wait. I also have not upgraded brakes or gears they are on the list but not in a hurry. keep in mind your ball joints and tre's will wearout faster with larger tires.
I would recommend upgrading your trackbar first as the drivers side bolt on the trackbar is usually everyones first cause of death wobble.
I would recommend upgrading your trackbar first as the drivers side bolt on the trackbar is usually everyones first cause of death wobble.
No and I don't want them to think about the fact that I might replace them. They have served me well, so far.mikem04rubi said:It is a DD. Did you do the rear shafts also?f9k9 said:Is it a DD? If, so, then contact Blaine at Savvy and get the centric premium front rotors and the black magic pads. Best advice is to stay gentle on the skinny. I've got over a year (15K) on my 35s with upgraded front shafts, 5.13s and the only thing that I HAD to upgrade to is the Currie HD tie rod through a trail mishap.
On the subject of the rear lockers grenading first..............my front one went first but, I had read somewhere to just lock the rears in at the beginning of a trail ride and leave them locked. It may be an internet myth but, I followed that myth and my rear axles and locker has held up. The front locker was not discovered to be broken until we regeared it and a broken pin prevented reassembly.
on 35s for the last 4 years, I do have upgraded shafts and 4.88 gears. My combo is heavy as i run rock rings, steel wheels, Maxxis Bighorns, staun internsl beadlocks... total about 105lbs/tire. Lockers have held up well, but I do not use them much. Shafts would be the first upgrade, then brakes, steering...
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