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Discussion Starter #1
Just put new (discount tire siped) 255 85 16 bfg km2's on WIFES 2003 rubicon with moabs (no wheel spacers) . It also has a full 2" ome hd kit with winch and 3/4" spacers in front (added in 05) . Driver side is 3/4" higher than pass side also. Also JKS front TB and discos that are very loose at the bottom. Any thoughts how I can make the wife happy ? shocks, wheel spacers, new bushimgs on discos, HELP and Thanks Sean
 

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Jeepless in PA
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The only way to fix an unstable vehicle is to widen the wheelbase with spacers/wider tires/rims or to lower the rig height.

Personally, I would get the spidertrax for 200 and be done with it. (If legal in your state)
 

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I agree, put on SpyderTrax wheel spacers to widen the stance and restore cornering capability. Sorry but you got the OME springs on the wrong sides and that is what is making the Jeep lean. The Australians drive on the Left (wrong) side of the road and their Jeeps have the steering wheel on the Right - so the directions have to be changed by a US distributor of OME products.

Definately check for worn steering and suspension parts.
 

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semcderm said:
Just put new (discount tire siped) 255 85 16 bfg km2's on WIFES 2003 rubicon with moabs (no wheel spacers) .
It also has a full 2" ome hd kit with winch and 3/4" spacers in front (added in 05) .
Driver side is 3/4" higher than pass side also.
You could have the rear OME coils switched around, or you could have a coil
not sitting straight in the spring perch (there's a "pig tail" that has to sit in a slot).
Could this have happened when installing the spacers or the OME springs themselves?
Sometimes the right rear starts to sag on its own.
Did it happen gradually or after a modification of some kind?

Also JKS front TB and discos that are very loose at the bottom.
What does "very loose" mean? Is it something that can be tightened or are they shot?

Any thoughts how I can make the wife happy ?
That's something you'll have to figure out through trial and error... :cheesy:


shocks, wheel spacers, new bushimgs on discos, HELP and Thanks Sean
Did you buy these items or are you asking if you should?
If the shocks are 5 years old they might be due - does it keep bouncing down the road
for a while after hitting bumps? - it should level out right away.

FYI - I had a very noticeable improvement in lateral stability (tippiness) after adding wheel spacers.
 

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gene p said:
If mine had 255's on it I would think I had a race car.
255/85/16s are a very different animal from 245/75/16s


Metric tires are sized like so, first number is actually the width in mm, second number is the aspect ratio of width to height, 16 is the rim size.

his "255s" are actually 33.1" vs "245s" which are 30.5"
 

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Tippy? I run 255's with OME springs and my Jeep handles just fine.

What condition is the rest of the suspension in? Especially control arms. If your bushings are sloppy or loose fix that first before spending any money on spacers.
 

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I have the exact same setup but with the taller ZJ/LJ springs and 1" BL. I don't think it is tippy at all and I purposely will turn hard sometimes just to see how it feels. Check your other parts first. I love my 255 KM2s with NO wheel spacers.
 

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Sorry I can't help. I'm just signing in for more info. I've considered the 255 KM2s as well and I've been wondering if I would need spacers and how stable it would be without. The only advice I can give, would be to check those loose parts you mentioned first. A loose trac bar could cause trouble and if your sway bar links are loose or disconnected it will definetly feel loose. Keep us informed with what you find out.
 

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I have run my 255x85x16 BFG MTs with and without spidertrax spacers, I felt no differance. The width gained is so small with the spacers that I do not see how it would chnage anything regarding being "tippy." I had the spacers on the jeep while I was running 315x75x16 MTZs and after I swapped to the 255x85x16 BFGs I had them on for a while but pulled them and sold them because I did not need the back spacing to clear the wide MTZs any more. Spacers are made to give more backspacing, they are too small to help with "tippyness."
 

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I run 255x85x16 with a 3" suspension. It doesn't feel tippy at all. I do get a bit of extra lean in corners which I attribute to my Currie AntiRock sway bar. But even that isn't objectionable. I have a pretty heavy foot too. I like the way it handles.
 

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If the sway bar disconnects are loose at the bottom then that could cause a "tippy" feeling, it would be like having the sway bar partially disconnected. I would fix that first.
 

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3rivers said:
Also JKS front TB and discos that are very loose at the bottom.
What does "very loose" mean? Is it something that can be tightened or are they shot?

x2, this is the first thing I'd do...tighten these up. Loose track bar can lead to much more than just tippyness...I'm sure your wife wouldn't like DW, especially if it's her first experience. :)
 

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fix or replace the discos and track bar first. you might think about poly sway bar mount bushings front and rear. it will make it more stable in corners. its kinda the opposite of what most jeep guys want. if it makes the wife happy go with it. you can still disconnect it off road. its a fairly cheap and easy fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
ok here is what the shop said is causing the tippy problem and the fixes

1. front jks discos need to be tightened
2. rear stock sway bar links replaced (w/ zone 2-3")
3. rear stock trac bar with ome trac bar brac has wallowed out axle and ome bracket and it will cost $240.00 to fix by welding on washers

Any thoughts on these suggestions anyone ? thanks for the earlier posts
 

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I'm just now reading this thread for the first time, but the items you just listed could all cause, by themselves, an uneasy feeling. Especially if all are affecting ride quality at the same time. I don't know about cost, but if it's a reputable shop you've done business with before, get it fixed.
 

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Another 3" Nth springs with 255/85r16's and it handles better than stock, and is definitely not tippy.

The worn out suspension bushings (sway bar and track bar especially) could cause squirrely handling. Where exactly is the wallowed out bracket in the rear? It's unusual that it would wear out the OME bracket (a $17 item from Quadratec) and the factory bracket. It could be as simple as replacing the OME bracket with a new one for $17, definitely get more info on what exactly is worn.

The OME bracket bolts to the stock bracket, which is welded to the axle. If the stock bracket is worn, then a new weld-in bracket is a better fix than slapping washers on the existing. I'd try to find an offroad shop that could cut off the old bracket and weld a new one for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
a weld in bracket would be a much better solution than washers, what brand do you suggest, or is stock o.k. ? I also thought a jks adjustable track bar attached to the oem bracket (or a new weld on) made more sense than simply buying another ome relocation bracket with the stock trackbar (read something about roll center one time)

thanks Sean
 
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