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Discussion Starter #1
The MOAB run found some weak spots on my 03 Rubicon and the front locker has failed as a result. Over the years I have made a few upgrades to my axles with the Warn front hub conversion to 5 on 5.5 and Alloy CM axles, plus I have built diff/DS U joint skids and added ORO Crossover Steering and Longfellow front U joints, plus I have spare hubs, fuses, axle shafts inners and outers. I am thinking of having this one straightened and trussed, then having an ARB installed to match the rear locker, because of the investment thus far and am looking for a shop to do the work. The jeep is on a 6" AiRock and I was wondering if the end forgings could be trussed as well, or should I have them replaced with the ProRock 44 end forgings by Danatrac.

So far I have entertained the idea of Danatrac D44 rock pro housing if I can still reuse my shafts and knuckles and someone suggested D60 but I think that would not be a wise move on a tight budget

I look forward to your suggestions.

Powell
 

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Please keep us updated with how things go. I'm interested in how this turns out
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The RP44 extreme or standard?
 

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I think I'm going with the PR44 Extreme, after a lengthy conversation with dynatrac last night. I would choose the factory JK e-locker over the arb because its less complicated. I was considering a custom built hp44 using a ford center section, 3 inch tubes, etc. The problem there is the old style 44 gears are no where near as good as the JK style, arb is the only good locker for it, and the price is only several hundred below the PR44. The entire housing except the tubes are far superior in strength to the other one also. I can sell my stock TJ 44 for a decent price to a couple local guys and only have around 1200 more into the PR, compared to gearing and rcv's for the TJ axle. Also add up heavy mounts, sleeving and gusseting, heavy duty cover, etc, and it becomes way less. Plus it would never be equal no matter what you do.

With the stuff you can get in a PR44, I don't know why you'd need a 60 unless you want to make massive horsepower, and use it.

I'm running a RK LA and am intent on running 36/37 tires.
 

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For what My opinion is worth to ya I wouldn't buy another 44 unless you're 35" or smaller. The 60 isn't that much more than a 44 and is way stronger. Not just the ring gear. The ball joints, better steering options, etc. A 36-37 is just pushing the limits and parts will wear faster. Plus if you ever decided to go a little bigger you don't have to baby it and always worry or buy another axle. Just my opinion. I broke my front passenger chromo 3 times in 20 minutes. Shouldve gone 60's
 

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sleepsontoilet said:
For what My opinion is worth to ya I wouldn't buy another 44 unless you're 35" or smaller. The 60 isn't that much more than a 44 and is way stronger. Not just the ring gear. The ball joints, better steering options, etc. A 36-37 is just pushing the limits and parts will wear faster. Plus if you ever decided to go a little bigger you don't have to baby it and always worry or buy another axle. Just my opinion. I broke my front passenger chromo 3 times in 20 minutes. Shouldve gone 60's

What size tire and have you ever run the RCVs? I know it doesn't seem like a lot more, but its a solid 2g more for a 60.
 

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I DD 37's, beadlocks, 5.13's, alloys, etc. Yes I've heard of them, no I have no intentions on purchasing them. I built mine enough to last till I go tons, and sell later. If it were me I would buy a set of junk yard tons or build a 9. While I agree the dynatrac is bling and stronger than the stock 44, I cannot justify the money for them. You could build a waggy/scout 44 for way cheaper. But it is your rig and I'll drool over the pics just the same.
 

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I'll be interested to see as well...

I also run the Warn 5 on 5.5 up front and only plan on upgrading the housing and use my internals (will replace the locker and possibly add larger disk brakes if they don't interfere with the wheels)... for 37's that should be fine. A 60 is ideal but for me that is a significant increase in cost and with plans to stick with the 4.0 I can't justify the extra $$ for that upgrade (figure only 4.88 gearing 5 speed with the 4.0 engine upgraded significantly on 37's) not to mention less daily wear and tear on parts due to the hubs.
 

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yea dynatrac is way over priced, just for the housing. Whats the price is seen umm 1900? Just the housing and nothing else ouch :JerryC:
 

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My quote is 4200 shipped with RCVs, 513s, JK locker, my stock brakes and knuckles. Sell rubi axle for 1500, which is already sold if I decide to do it, I work with a lot of jeep guys, and I have the only rubicon :wink:

What would I have with 2700 invested in the stock axle? Gearing and RCVs alone is almost 1500, control arm skids, cover, maybe an inner sleeve and outer C gusset. It would be cheaper, but the housing, high pinion, better gears and locker, all stronger mounts, are they worth the extra 700-800? I kinda feel like they are. I agree a 60 is ideal, just tough to swallow. I could swing the PR44 this spring probably, and just do gears and chromies rear.
 

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Out of curiousity have you priced a spidertrax or currie axle. Curious how much difference you're looking at. I think they are relatively close, but should be a stronger setup.

The rcvs are warrantied for life to a 39" IIRC. so your shafts shouldn't be your weak link if that's the route you go.
 

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sleepsontoilet said:
Out of curiousity have you priced a spidertrax or currie axle. Curious how much difference you're looking at. I think they are relatively close, but should be a stronger setup.

The rcvs are warrantied for life to a 39" IIRC. so your shafts shouldn't be your weak link if that's the route you go.

No I haven't priced other setups, not yet.
 

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I'm in the same boat as you, trying to decide it it's worth sinking money into the rubi 44's or sell 'em off to offset some decent axles...

Consider this thread subscribed to!
 

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Hope that helps. You can also build a regular currie 9" for cheaper than those. I wanna say the last time I did for front and rear with detroits it was around 7k for both axles.
 

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I love how they don't include ujoints or outers, are you supposed to use the stock D30 stuff wtf?

That axle is still 5 grand easy with gears, locker, joints and stub shafts, and setup of gears. It just doesn't seem like that great of a deal.

The spider roller one I was looking at before, seems great if I had the welding skills required.
 

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I thought you were reusing your outers and brakes? Might've misunderstood ya bud.

They wouldn't be far from your quote of 4200, and the rock jock 60 is alot more axle.

It would be worth it to me to ask around a few local welding shops or offroad shops what they'd charge to weld the spider for ya.

Hope you don't think I'm arguing with you, just trying to help you make the most informed decision thats best for you.
 

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No I appreciate the help, but it seems like theres a lot more lacking from the rockjock than just knuckles and brakes. Whats an ARB+gears for a 60, 1500 easy if you have to pay someone to set them up.

One thing that sucks to me about the prorock44 is that you still have stock balljoints, wheelbearings, knuckles, and brakes. That particular 60 is the same way.
 
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