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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All - been a while since I've been active on the forum, but spent the last few days catching up as I'm starting to work on the Jeep again.

I need new tires and struggling whether to use my mint condition 2004 MOAB wheels for a metric size or go with the 15" steelies I'm currently using.

Does anybody know if there is still a market for the 03-05 MOAB wheels? Mine literally are bone stock with no rock rash. If I keep them I'll probably paint them black, but if there's still a market I'd probably just sell them as they've been stacked in my garage for years.
 

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The Moab rims are quite good at holding a bead - I've aired down to 10-12 psi when wheeling (now I have beadlocks.) I had no problem selling my Moab rims locally.
 

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We had a couple of threads of people looking for or buying them in the past year, so I would say there is still a market
 

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Every once in awhile we see them for sale in our area. Going price seems to be around $200.00.
My son bought a set with 50% rubber for $250.00 a couple months back.
 

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The real issue is finding people with TJs. They have not been made for 16 years and most people have rims. I would keep them, 16 inch tires are easier to find now and the price differential over 15s has disappeared. It also allows upgraded brakes and holds a bead better. Over the last few years I have moved from 15s to 16s on my jeeps.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks all

The real issue is finding people with TJs. They have not been made for 16 years and most people have rims. I would keep them, 16 inch tires are easier to find now and the price differential over 15s has disappeared. It also allows upgraded brakes and holds a bead better. Over the last few years I have moved from 15s to 16s on my jeeps.
Great points - I agree. Don't mean to open a can of worms but the only reason I'd keep the steelies is for the load range C. As you've made the switch, presumably from C to D/E, has there been a noticeable difference either on/off highway? I'm on the fence! Only ever had C tires and my TJ is pretty light.

The Moab rims are quite good at holding a bead - I've aired down to 10-12 psi when wheeling (now I have beadlocks.) I had no problem selling my Moab rims locally.
Yes I've been reading that... per above, my concern with the MOABs is moving up to the higher load ranges... would the "rigidity" of D/E be effectively negated by enabling a lower pressure (without investing in beadlocks)? If I go the 16" route I'm pretty dead set on 255/85R16, so I'd be worried that benefit (of airing down more while still holding a bead) wouldn't apply since the 8" width of the MOABs is at the high range of the 255/85 approved rim width.
 

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Just to add...the two times I lost a bead with a Good Year MTR, after kicking them back into shape, they sealed on their own with no tricks. I also did 3/4s of a trail on completely flat tires and never realized it till I checked pressure at the end. I don’t necessarily suggest doing that. They had 2 lbs each.
 

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I run larger tires 315/75r16, (35s) so I have a lot of side rubber. I prefer the stiffer sidewalls onroad for handling. Offroad, I prefer the thicker sidewall to avoid tears, but they flex a bit less, so a tradeoff.
 

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My Nitto Trail Grapplers are load range D, I air them down to about 8 PSI for the trail, I wouldn't want a load range E though.
 

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I think you could find a buyer. I have 2 sets of MOAB factory rims. I know the 02-06 Liberty folks use them when lifting the Liberty as well as some XJ for the difference in back spacing. (7in BS for the Liberty)
 
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I think you could find a buyer. I have 2 sets of MOAB factory rims. I know the 02-06 Liberty folks use them when lifting the Liberty as well as some XJ for the difference in back spacing. (7in BS for the Liberty)
Thanks all


Great points - I agree. Don't mean to open a can of worms but the only reason I'd keep the steelies is for the load range C. As you've made the switch, presumably from C to D/E, has there been a noticeable difference either on/off highway? I'm on the fence! Only ever had C tires and my TJ is pretty light.


Yes I've been reading that... per above, my concern with the MOABs is moving up to the higher load ranges... would the "rigidity" of D/E be effectively negated by enabling a lower pressure (without investing in beadlocks)? If I go the 16" route I'm pretty dead set on 255/85R16, so I'd be worried that benefit (of airing down more while still holding a bead) wouldn't apply since the 8" width of the MOABs is at the high range of the 255/85 approved rim width.
I have the original moabs and run 255/85 toyo mud terrains. They are E rated and I air down to 10-12. Never a problem in fact it’s the best combo for me. The rims will scratch more
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Appreciate everyone's replies... I ended up keeping the MOABs and getting the "new" Toyo RT's in the 285/75 flavor. Since my Jeep will be going from garage queen to DD duty I decided on the Toyo RTs rather than a MT and they don't have a 255/85, which is why I went 285/75. Figure I can keep my 15" steelies and get another set of 34x10.5 LTBs in the future if funds allow for a trail-only set.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Oh, and I'm going to be replacing the valve stems with the shorter TR412 as I hear that is the MOABs weakness while wheeling.
 

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Rarely do I find MOABs up for sale and they're gone by the time I can get to them. The PO had put 235/85-16's on them which exposed the valves stems to damage so now I get my 285/75-16's from TireRecappers in L/R D and enjoy.
255/85-16 would be a good choice if it wasn't so rare and so $$$
The 16" steel TJ rims would be great for a 235/85-16 road tire.
 
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