Fixing up the JK - Page 2 - Rubicon Owners Forum
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post #11 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-14-2019, 07:36 PM Thread Starter Premium
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Bakersfield CA
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Originally Posted by rlenglish View Post
I am hesitant to change steering on a JK. the flex the factory linkage gives adsorbs some of the shock load. If the shock is too great into the box they are known for breaking steering box sector shafts.
Yes, me thinks that too. The JK stock steering is much beefier than the stock LJ steering.

Originally Posted by katswuy View Post
At the TDS Desert Safari last winter BFG had cutaway samples of their K02, KM2 and KM3 tires. The KM3's were much thicker and heavier. If you end up with 35 or 37 inch tires consider how hard it is to change them when they are that heavy. One of our group lost a sidewall on a 35 inch Cooper STT Pro and it was all three of us old guys could do to lift the flat back on his bumper spare carrier.
Hey MR Brawley!

I'll check weights. I have the same tires as you right now. Wheelbarrow tires seem to be pretty heavy now at 67 years old!
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post #12 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-14-2019, 08:10 PM Thread Starter Premium
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Location: Bakersfield CA
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BFG tire weight. All 17" wheel


34/10:50 - 55.1 lbs
35/12:50 - 66.5 lbs
37/12:50 - 71.3 lbs


305/70 - 64.7 lbs

35/12:50 - 67.1 lbs
37/12:50 - 74 lbs


33/12:50 - 67.6 lbs
35/12:50 - 77.4 lbs
37/12:50 - 77.4

Could be the tire site I went to is incorrect as the 35" KM3 is the same as the 37"
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post #13 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-14-2019, 11:01 PM
Rubi Noobie
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 76
We recently built a 2018 JK on 37s for my wife, here's a partial list of components and why.
  • Teraflex Alpine CT3 lift- IMO 3" is perfect for 37s. I wanted a control arm that was maintenance free
  • Cooper STT Pro- wanted a lighter 37 and something that wasn't E rated. Would have preferred C but hers are D
  • Steersmarts draglink, tie rod & trackbar. Figured we'd replace them right away rather than wait for the stockers to fail.
  • Teraflex big rotor kit front/rear. 37s need more brake
  • Poison spyder fenders- went with steel only because we got a great deal on them
  • Adam's drive shafts front/rear- You will need at least a front, plus you can skip the spacer if you add one.

Since hers was a Sport we also swapped axles
  • Teraflex Tera44 front with 4.88 and ARB lockers
  • Teraflex CRD 60 rear, also with ARB and 4.88.

4 door I would have done 5.13, but we're happy with 4.88 on the 2 door.

My '14 Rubi we built as we went and as things broke. This one we did it all up front. The price tag was hard to swallow but it's been nice not worrying about things breaking

Good luck on yours!!

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2014 JKUR- His
2018 JK - Hers
2016 JKWW- Retired
2013 JKU - Retired
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post #14 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-15-2019, 01:41 AM
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Posts: 286
This is a fun video, shows a 37 inch tire. At the 6 minute mark he weighs it and its 142 pounds. It DOES NOT show him getting it back on the tailgate LOL. I am thinking it was not an easy feat :-p
Its not a BFG, but it's good just to watch.
If you always run with people it would not be a problem, for me I always wheel alone. I am sure I could do it, however it would suck to be injured a long long long ways from anything. I suppose you could flip the winch line over and winch it up hahaha.

Last edited by WayWestJeep; 10-15-2019 at 01:46 AM.
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post #15 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-15-2019, 07:28 AM Premium
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 3,001
On the weight of the wheel and tire topic.

I welded on a piece of tube to the spare tire mount. I lift the tire and wheel onto the tube, then align the lugs. Makes for an easier initial placement.

On how to build a Rubi for 37s. I did that on my 11 by just ripping the guts out of the stock flares.
On the 17, I just run 1 synergy springs and front control arm relocation brackets. Yes I added different control arms, but they are not needed.
I did eventually run different fenders on the 11, and do on the 17. Nemisys flares for reference, but more for looks vs functionality.

My take on belly armor, beat up what you have to determine what you need.

Sport cage, I have the EVO chrome molly bolt in stuff. We all neglect to do cage work imho.

Steering and trackbars. I like the adjustability of the synergy stuff. I have the fusion4x4 steering and synergy trackbars. Dont forget hydro assist.

Axle shafts, Id wait to see what you are getting into. Or do them as part of the regear while you are at it.

My overall take is build a sport with 60s, after doing all the stuff to a Rubi to be almost as good axle and brake wise.

Congrats on your son getting an LJ
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2003 Rubicon, just PR 60s, COs, ...
2004 Dodge CTD, with stuff
2005 Rubicon LJ, stockish
2017 JKU sport, just UD60
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post #16 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-18-2019, 12:48 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: North Dakota
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I also have an LJ on 255/85R16 and I have a friend who used to have a JKUR (traded it for JLUR) that I go wheeling with. We've covered most of the easy to moderate trails in CO (Yankee Boy, Imogene, Engineer, etc) and drove the Jeeps 1000+/- miles from ND to get there. So our Jeeps are built for both Overlanding and trail riding duties. I've done lots of comparisons between the 2 Jeeps during our trips and his JK was setup exactly the way I would set one up again if I was to get a JK. I love my LJ, but I think his JK outperformed my LJ in everything except rock crawling and tight maneuvers.

The build;

He had 35" tires. I would recommend the same. In part because, as mentioned above, that is already a big and heavy tire to change out. Secondly, as I understand it, the JK axles are not that strong. Anything over 35" tires runs the risk of bending axle tubes. Look into this more if you really want 37s. I don't think its worth the risk. If you like your 255/85s, check out the 285/75R17. That is nice looking tall and skinny tire. I've seen them on a few JKs and they look really nice. But they are smaller than a 35"

For a lift I would run the AEV 2.5". My friends JK was the best handling Jeep that I had ever been in. Arguably better than the stock JLUR. He ran the AEV 2.5" with 1" spacers on top of them because he wanted a little extra height after he had everything installed. For him the 3.5" might have been better, but a 35" tire fits with the 2.5" lift.

He also used the AEV geometry correction brackets. Using the correction brackets not only set your geometry at the correct angle to correct anti-squat and other geometry changes, but it also corrects pinion angles. My friend did have to replace the front driveshaft with a Tom Wood shaft because at full droop the factory shaft would rub the oil pan. The Tom Wood is a narrower shaft and had more clearance room. I expect that issue was unique to his Jeep.

In short, I would just do my shopping over at AEV. I know a lot of guys think they are over priced, but as a whole package, they really got it right with the JK. So much so in fact, that if you look at a new JL next to a JK with AEV lift. You will see that Jeep copied every engineering design from AEV for the new JL.
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post #17 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-19-2019, 08:01 PM
Rubi Noobie
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 6
Fixing up the JK

On the topic of saving weight with aluminum parts - Check out the offerings from RockSlide Engineering.
All made in the USA
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post #18 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-20-2019, 11:37 AM
Rubi Wheeler
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: wellington NV
Posts: 185
If your planing on playing on rocks..and a daily driver get 60's and 5.38's.
Tires IMO Nitto Trail Grapplers.
min 3.5" 3 link front-rear.
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2011 JKU custom XD60/PR80 5.3LC9 6L80e Trail Grappler 40" Atlas 3.8. Custom RK Pro Aluminum long arms frt with Triangulated rear uppers and lower trailing arms C/O's and Bypass all 4 corners. TK 1 Racing/Currie rear swaybar, Poison Spyder everything except front Expedition One front bumper with Warn 9.5 CTIS
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post #19 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-22-2019, 09:18 PM Premium
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Location: Brawley, CA.
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We just got back from our annual Lone Pine trip. We ran the Big Pine to Bishop via Coyote Flats trail that includes a section of USFS triple diamond rated. With the 2.5 Metal Cloak lift and some CAREFUL spotting we made it through unscathed. Might have drug something once. I still have the KO2 34X10.50--17's, but I will go a little bigger next time. A true 35 inch tire should be all I will need for the type of trails we run. We drove up and back, about 1400 miles with no highway problems. (That is after chasing a death wobble problem for 6 months--finally cured) We also did Goler Wash, Mengel Pass and a few other more moderate trails. Going to 37's would entail upgrading brakes, axles, gears etc.
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2006 LJ Rubicon, 6 sp. 3.5/4 in. RE lift, Rockhard front bumper, Hanson rear bumper, ORO spare/dual jerry can carrier, Moab wheels with Spidertrax 1.5" spacers, 285/75R16 BFG KO2's, Misch overhead shelf, Black Box 2-way, Kenwood Excelon double din nav/cd/dvd/am/fm/sirius system, Rigid SideShooter front LED's, Warn winch, custom Viair OBA, Banks Cat-back exhaust
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post #20 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-23-2019, 09:19 AM
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We just got back from our annual Lone Pine trip. We ran the Big Pine to Bishop via Coyote Flats trail....

John - WB5THT
2006 LJ, not stock
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