33ís or 35ís? - Page 3 - Rubicon Owners Forum
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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by SteveVB View Post
I think the AEV wheels are a good choice. I went with them because they were specific to the JK, designed with JK geometry and tire sizes in mind. An excellent value for what they are, JK specific wheels. I believe that extra design thought brings less wear and tear and better handling.

There are tons of wheel manufacture's but the back spacing and offsets are all compromises for the numerous applications that a 5x5 bolt pattern fits, not that most of them are bad they just are not vehicle specific.



Narrow tires and the wheels that fit them are just not popular, my ideal would probably be a 35/6 tire on a 7.5 or so wheel with 5 inches back space, no such animal unless I custom build a wheel and buy a container full of specially built tires...


Yea, when I talked to Paul at AEV he gave me a full lesson on the concept of ďscrub radiusĒ and how their wheels are engineered to maintain the stock scrub radius with 35Ē to 37Ē wheels while still clearing the suspension and frame. However, rlenglishís comment about rubbing with even less BS than the AEV wheels concerns me a bit.

With all the people running AEV wheels and 37ís I have to assume there is ample clearance...

With all the modding of JKs itís still amazing to me how much trial and error is involved.

If this Jeep wasnít geared with 4.88ís (what was the PO thinking...?) Iíd put in some spacers and 33ís and be done with it. But even with 35ís Iím gonna be turning 2600 rpm at highway speed, which isnít awful but itís higher than stock with the 4.10s and 32ís.


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2017 JKUR | 6-spd Manual | Rock Krawler 2.5" Flex | G2 4.88 Gears | Bilstein 5100s | Fox 2.0 ATS Stabilizer | Smittybilt Atlas F & R bumpers | Smittybilt X20 Winch | ARB Diff Covers | BesTop Sunrider | Woods 1310 F & R shafts | Magnaflow axle-back | K & N CAI | ARB CKMA12 | too many cheap light bars
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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 01:40 PM
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I have a few pictures of my Jeep on 35" tires with AEV wheels, but only with the rear stock fenders. These are all with the stock suspension. The tires only stuck out a little bit. Lifted it probably wouldn't be noticeable. I had minimal rubbing on the sway bar arms at full lock before the lift went in but no clearance issues since.




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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
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So these photos are all *before* your lift? And after the lift youíve had no clearance issues? That is great to hear.

I just listed my JL wheels and remaining 3 almost new tires in CL; hopefully I can find a quick buyer.


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2017 JKUR | 6-spd Manual | Rock Krawler 2.5" Flex | G2 4.88 Gears | Bilstein 5100s | Fox 2.0 ATS Stabilizer | Smittybilt Atlas F & R bumpers | Smittybilt X20 Winch | ARB Diff Covers | BesTop Sunrider | Woods 1310 F & R shafts | Magnaflow axle-back | K & N CAI | ARB CKMA12 | too many cheap light bars
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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 12:15 PM
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So these photos are all *before* your lift? And after the lift youíve had no clearance issues? That is great to hear.

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That is correct. If you are going to get AEV wheels avoid the pintlers, they aren't actually hub-centric and I have seen some destroyed on the trails. IMO their 5 spoke design is bad for off roading. It leaves big weak spots that if you come down hard on a rock it just cracks.
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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DK2014JK View Post
That is correct. If you are going to get AEV wheels avoid the pintlers, they aren't actually hub-centric and I have seen some destroyed on the trails. IMO their 5 spoke design is bad for off roading. It leaves big weak spots that if you come down hard on a rock it just cracks.
Thanks. I'm planning on the Borah's (though they are HEAVY at 40 lbs...) . According to AEV, they aren't making *any* of their wheels hub centric any more because of problems with the wheels fusing to the hubs in places that use MgCl to salt roads. (dissimilar metal corrosion). Since the factory wheels aren't hub centric, I figure it can't be *that* important...
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2017 JKUR | 6-spd Manual | Rock Krawler 2.5" Flex | G2 4.88 Gears | Bilstein 5100s | Fox 2.0 ATS Stabilizer | Smittybilt Atlas F & R bumpers | Smittybilt X20 Winch | ARB Diff Covers | BesTop Sunrider | Woods 1310 F & R shafts | Magnaflow axle-back | K & N CAI | ARB CKMA12 | too many cheap light bars
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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 11:04 PM
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Not being hub centric shouldnít be a big issue with tires/wheels that size. My motorhome wheels are tractor trailer size (22.5Ē) and being off center will be noticeable in a sweeping (gradual) turn so I have a run out test made when changing tires (dial gauge.) Tires should be true to maybe 10 thousands? I donít remember exactly.
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post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I pulled the trigger on some Hardrock wheels from Quadratec (same dimensions as the AEV wheels, but 15 lbs lighter (each) and about 1/3 the price of the AEV Borahs I was considering.

Ride seems great so far and the stance is very acceptable. I wish BFG made this tire in a 35 x 10.50, but oh well...

Rubbing at full lock on both lower control arms. I suppose I can live with that, but it is a bit disappointing.

Now I need to get it into the field and do some careful testing while flexed.

This time around I paid the extra $30 a tire to get 100% lifetime warranty against ANY hazard (including sidewall tears from rocks or suspension components).

I suspect I will see some fender trimming in the not too distant future (or if I can find some flat fenders and liners that have an acceptable price).
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2017 JKUR | 6-spd Manual | Rock Krawler 2.5" Flex | G2 4.88 Gears | Bilstein 5100s | Fox 2.0 ATS Stabilizer | Smittybilt Atlas F & R bumpers | Smittybilt X20 Winch | ARB Diff Covers | BesTop Sunrider | Woods 1310 F & R shafts | Magnaflow axle-back | K & N CAI | ARB CKMA12 | too many cheap light bars
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post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 09:54 AM
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Looks good!

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