JKUR Death Wobble - Rubicon Owners Forum
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
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JKUR Death Wobble

Our 2016 JKUR has only 32,000 miles, with a small fraction of that off-road. It has started to exhibit the classic death wobble symptoms at around 47 MPH. Tires are good, and have been balanced, they were just slightly off. Specs on alignment are within parameters. The problem started recently and has been getting worse. I had a respected 4X4 shop take a look at it and they recommended a complete front end rebuild. Heavy duty tie rod ends, drag link and tie rod. They also recommended new ball-joints. I can see the tie rods maybe are worn, but has anyone had their ball joints go bad at this low of a mileage? Running 33.5 tires, wheels have 4.5" offset. Probably going to go ahead with the HD steering components, then if wobble persists I will do the ball-joints.

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2006 LJ Rubicon, 6 sp. 3.5/4 in. RE lift, Rockhard front bumper, Hanson rear bumper, ORO spare/dual jerry can carrier, Moab wheels with Spidertrax 1.5" spacers, 285/75R16 BFG KO2's, Misch overhead shelf, Black Box 2-way, Kenwood Excelon double din nav/cd/dvd/am/fm/sirius system, Rigid SideShooter front LED's, Warn winch, custom Viair OBA, Banks Cat-back exhaust
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 06:32 PM
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I haven't heard of a ball joint going bad with that mileage, not unless heavily wheeled and/or big tires. but I guess there is that one in a million which goes bad.
Here is how you can check them:
https://www.moog-suspension-parts.co...k-ball-joints/


Why did the shop recommend a complete rebuild? did they found something wrong?, or do they want to change everything because they couldn't?
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2004 Rubicon (auto), 4", TW 1350 CV shaft, Skyjacker High clearance transfer skid, 35"s...
2016 JKUR (auto), 3.5", Artec AL armor, MC fenders
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 08:05 PM Thread Starter
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I think that they figure if they replace everything they will fix the problem. Bill would be just over 2 grand for doing it all. They would use the Rubicon Express HD steering system, I am not a big fan of RE. I will probably go with either MetalCloak or Currie. I have the tools to do it all myself, just finding the time is tough.
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2006 LJ Rubicon, 6 sp. 3.5/4 in. RE lift, Rockhard front bumper, Hanson rear bumper, ORO spare/dual jerry can carrier, Moab wheels with Spidertrax 1.5" spacers, 285/75R16 BFG KO2's, Misch overhead shelf, Black Box 2-way, Kenwood Excelon double din nav/cd/dvd/am/fm/sirius system, Rigid SideShooter front LED's, Warn winch, custom Viair OBA, Banks Cat-back exhaust
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 09:34 PM
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If you want a full HD steering kit then go for it. If you just want your DW fixed then get that addressed.
There are a million threads and posts across the internet about DW. Also a million claimed solutions.
I have dealt with DW with Jeeps and Rams. One of my best friends works at Ford and deals with this regularly. We have talked about this a lot.
DW is a common concern with any solid axle that has a multi link suspension.
The most common culprit is the Track Bar. Loose/Worn/Oblong mounting holes. Get someone to move the steering wheel back and forth while you look and touch the track bar. Is there play?
The second favorite culprit is the steering shock. A lot of smart people claim if your steering is tight you don't even need a steering shock. That is a false statement. Maybe if you had metal bushings in all your control arms and a narrow tolerance you could get away without but this is the real world. If your shock is original then replace it. You could take it off and move it back and forth but this doesn't always show it's bad.
Ball joints either have play or not. Side to side/ up and down. No play then they don't need replacing.
Daily driven Jeeps don't seem to use up ball joints.
I posted a couple pictures awhile back that showed the new axle seals. If they pull your axles to do ball joints then the seals can come apart. Prepare for some new seals.

2014 JKU, JKS lift,Poison spyder flares, bombshell covers,Rancho D2 control arms, JKS adjustable track bars, 35" Tires. GrabBars, Crawler Conceptz rear bumper, Smitty front bumper, Winch. Rough Country inner fenders, Teraflex Disco Mud Flaps
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 09:36 PM
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https://www.rubiconownersforum.com/f...xle-seals.html
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2014 JKU, JKS lift,Poison spyder flares, bombshell covers,Rancho D2 control arms, JKS adjustable track bars, 35" Tires. GrabBars, Crawler Conceptz rear bumper, Smitty front bumper, Winch. Rough Country inner fenders, Teraflex Disco Mud Flaps
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 01:31 AM Thread Starter
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Track bar is tight, fairly new MC Game changer lift has been installed, new steering stabilizer. When it starts shaking it is the most violent DW I have had. Our 93 Grand Cherokee, our 97 TJ, our 04 TJ, our 06 LJ and now this JK have all had it to some extent. Just got to find the cure for this one!

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2006 LJ Rubicon, 6 sp. 3.5/4 in. RE lift, Rockhard front bumper, Hanson rear bumper, ORO spare/dual jerry can carrier, Moab wheels with Spidertrax 1.5" spacers, 285/75R16 BFG KO2's, Misch overhead shelf, Black Box 2-way, Kenwood Excelon double din nav/cd/dvd/am/fm/sirius system, Rigid SideShooter front LED's, Warn winch, custom Viair OBA, Banks Cat-back exhaust
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 08:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlenglish View Post
.....Get someone to move the steering wheel back and forth while you look and touch the track bar. Is there play?....
Yes - do this check! Look for any play in any steering component. That 4x4 shop wants to throw parts at the problem (not a bad strategy for a shop to get you fixed and out the door with money in their pocket) which you could probably do yourself. The track bar might feel tight to your hand but that's not the ultimate test under load.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 10:12 AM
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Fairly new lift? I suspect something has come loose. Star tightening up everything you can get to.
DW is no fun.
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2014 JKU, JKS lift,Poison spyder flares, bombshell covers,Rancho D2 control arms, JKS adjustable track bars, 35" Tires. GrabBars, Crawler Conceptz rear bumper, Smitty front bumper, Winch. Rough Country inner fenders, Teraflex Disco Mud Flaps
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 10:36 PM
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I know you said tires were OK, but rotate & balance them again after going through all of the retorquing of control arms and track bar. Put the two best tires on the front. Make sure all links are loosened and the bushings neutral (No twist or tension) retorque is done with tires on the ground and full vehicle weight on them with suspension bushings in neutral. Don't let them do it up on a lift.
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some scrapes, dents and some skids ,UCF high clearance skid, Hybrid 3" lift w/tera 3", Bilstein 5100s, F&RATB, JJ control arms , on 255/85 KM2's

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Last edited by SteveVB; 05-11-2019 at 10:38 PM. Reason: spelling
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 09:07 PM
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The factory ball joints on our '14 lasted about 20k before they failed, running 37s.
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