Jk jeep running hot after griiffin radiator - Page 2 - Rubicon Owners Forum
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-14-2018, 07:44 PM
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mine has been running hot as well. I am going to check some of the wiring for the ground of the stock fan. From what I have read and posted here, the stock 3.6 fan is excellent. The only issue with it is its controlled with the can bus. You can not just power it up to verify operation, from what I tried and read.

So, if you want to an aftermarket fan. What is turning the fan on and when?

the stock fan should run slow when the AC is on, then fast when hot.


curious to know what you find out. Ill look at mine again next weekend.

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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-18-2018, 11:50 AM
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any results?

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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-19-2018, 01:55 AM
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Subscribed. My 2013 JK is running progressively warmer over the past year or so. Climbing a 26% grade in 55* weather (Sonora Pass) the high temp was 237*, which isnít too bad, but climbing that grade next summer at +30*, Iím sure will be an issue. Thinking along the lines of a new radiator as I have a yet to be found leak that has lost a quart of coolant in the last 3K miles. Sounds like the consensus is to retain the OEM fan, shroud and thermostat. Now to figure out if a Griffin radiator is the right call.

2013 Rubi, A/T 4:10, 2" Rancho lift & RS 9000XK, LOD Full Front Bumper, ENGO E9000S Winch, Syn rope, Factor 55 Thimble, Rock Hard bumper-tire carrier-cargo basket-can mount, Engine/Trans and LCA skids, BFG M/T 255/80/17 KO2
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-19-2018, 11:26 AM
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When climbing a steep grade, you are lugging the engine, try going into a lower gear or even 4H or 4L.
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-20-2018, 01:41 AM
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Originally Posted by CAJW View Post
Subscribed. My 2013 JK is running progressively warmer over the past year or so. Climbing a 26% grade in 55* weather (Sonora Pass) the high temp was 237*, which isnít too bad, but climbing that grade next summer at +30*, Iím sure will be an issue. Thinking along the lines of a new radiator as I have a yet to be found leak that has lost a quart of coolant in the last 3K miles. Sounds like the consensus is to retain the OEM fan, shroud and thermostat. Now to figure out if a Griffin radiator is the right call.
Id try a flush and fill and add water wetter or a similar product. See if it helps.
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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-20-2018, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by johncanfield View Post
When climbing a steep grade, you are lugging the engine, try going into a lower gear or even 4H or 4L.
Thanks John, I already employ manual shifting for both and down grades. I can appreciate the idea of putting it in 4WD, but road is paved with LOTS of tight turns and hairpins.
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Id try a flush and fill and add water wetter or a similar product. See if it helps.
Did a radiator flush about 12K ago, didnít seem to help one bit, but the problem (heating & losing coolant) is getting progressively worse. From all that Iíve read, the OEM plastic/aluminum radiators are prone to leaking on the drivers side, but I still havenít been able to locate a leak anywhere. Coolant must be drying up or burning off before I can crawl under the beast to locate the source. At this point, I know the coolant is going somewhere, donít think itís a head gasket (no bubbles in radiator and only heats under a heavy load) so Iím fairly certain that a replacement radiator is on the short list. Besides changing out the water pump (with a OEM unit) trying to figure out which brand of radiator, Griffin, OEM, Rock Auto, CSF?

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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-20-2018, 12:23 PM
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You will probably never see antifreeze leaking but what you will see is the orange dried up crystals it leaves behind. usually you can see the crunchy residue on the bottom of the radiator tanks. Look from below and from the top.
On occasion a 3.6 will sprout a leak from the thermostat housing or water pump. Same thing applies, look for the crunchy crystals.
Some of the other forum's talk a lot about 3.6 head gaskets. I have never seen one and question as to if it's real or internet chatter.

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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-20-2018, 03:15 PM
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CAJW,
Just saying, If you wanted to at least stop the leak I have had good luck using "Bar's Leaks Liquid Aluminum Stop Leak"

I was on a club run doing the Arizona BDR when my radiator started to leak bad. There was no replacement radiator available so I took a chance on Bars Leak. It sealed the leak quickly and I took another chance continuing to the Mexican Border. Since the leak was stopped I decided to drive home to Reno and even crossed Death Valley. The radiator held all the way home and then some.

Replacing the radiator I inspected the old one by cutting into the radiator core and found no evidence of Bars Leak. The idea that Bars Leak plugs up the water passages was not seen.

At the USA/Mexican border 2017

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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-20-2018, 03:55 PM
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renglish - I've been looking, haven't seen any tell tale sign and even pulled the top of the shroud off looking for signs. I've checked the tank seams on both sides, paying special attention to the driver side as I've read that is the most common spot, but still no dice. I'm getting back under the Jeep today and will wipe everything down one more time to see if I can locate the source.


SierraBob - Great minds think alike! I haven't used Bars leak for eons, but remember it's good stuff. I'm just being lazy putting off the inevitable as I know it's leaking somewhere, but wanted to see if it was something simple like a loose hose clamp or something like that. If I was on the road, I'd do exactly as you, but I want the beast ready for the annual spring pilgrimage to Moab, so I'm shopping radiators, waterpump, hoses, thermostat etc......
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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 10-20-2018, 04:49 PM
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You might do a compression test and also a leak down test to see if it’s maybe an internal issue.
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