Another Brake question - Rubicon Owners Forum
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-10-2019, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
Rubi Wheeler
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 103
Another Brake question

Hello Ladies and Gents,

I am about to change my front rotors and pads to Centric premium and black magic pads. Before i went about doing it I checked the rears to see how they were and discovered that one fo the brake pads (inner side on the passenger wheel) was totally worn to metal. The outer pad still has some life left on it. Curious about the wear I checked the other side and the inner pad was ok but was worn put considerably more than the outer side. What could be the reason for uneven wear ?
I did see that the inside of the parking brake was little wet may be brake fluid leaking in there ? The bleeding valve was also wet but not dripping. The fluid in the reservoir was tad bit low but close to full. My parking brakes are also not set very well i can pull them all the way but they don't to stop the jeep from rolling.
Oh and while trying to take the seized pad off i did score inside of the the surface which pushes the pad against the rotor.

20190810_131952.jpg

I have already ordered set of rotors and pads for rear but want to know whats going on with the pad wear and is it ok to install the new rotors and pads with the minor scoring on the surface of the piston.

Thanks for advice and comments

lavi
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File Type: jpg 20190810_124210.jpg (510.1 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg 20190810_132059.jpg (146.1 KB, 7 views)

Last edited by bathindian2; 08-10-2019 at 03:11 PM.
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-10-2019, 03:26 PM
Rubi Bad Ass
 
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I started to reply and see you edited your post and added pics of the piston.
The inner part of the piston is okay, you may want to hit the part that contacts the brake pad with a file just to get it flat.
It looks and sounds like your caliper is not releasing enough pressure when the pedal is released.
By the looks of the pics that is a lot of corrosion - may just be the pic- the caliper needs to slide, and more importantly retract easily when pressure is released.
Also, are the pads in the picture in the position as they were removed? Not following the inner/outer in respect to the pics.
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-10-2019, 03:40 PM
Rubicus Maximus
 
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It's brakes. Don't mess around, for the few dollars replace your calipers also. If it were mine I would also replace the brake hoses. Do the complete job then you will be done.


Pads can wear uneven just because of the way they mount. The calipers could be sticking or the slides have corrosion inside the boot. On older vehicles the brake hose can collapse internally and not let brake fluid through or not let it back so the caliper can release.

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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-10-2019, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
Rubi Wheeler
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLLJ View Post
Also, are the pads in the picture in the position as they were removed? Not following the inner/outer in respect to the pics.
Thanks for quick reply FLLJ. My bad on the pics I got them mixed up along with inner vs outer pad. The one with pads on the caliper is from the front not rear. But on all the brakes outer pad is wearing more than inner as you can see in the pics.
The corrosion is by product of living in Chicago area. I do plan to do a thorough clean up and great he guide pins (which i read could be the cause).

I want to put in the good stuff, black magic, on the front but want to make sure if cleaning and greasing will fix things up.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-10-2019, 03:57 PM Thread Starter
Rubi Wheeler
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlenglish View Post
It's brakes. Don't mess around, for the few dollars replace your calipers also. If it were mine I would also replace the brake hoses. Do the complete job then you will be done..
I wouldn't mind replacing caliper if its needed. I would rather have the old original part , if it doesn't need replacing, then aftermarket stuff which i think is inferior in most cases. I do have new brake lines which will go in now that you mentioned those could be a problem, i was putting it off for one reason or other. Fronts already have braided lines from AEV replaced around 40k miles ago so i am assuming those should last some more time.
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 04:38 AM
Rubicus Maximus
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bathindian2 View Post
I wouldn't mind replacing caliper if its needed. I would rather have the old original part , if it doesn't need replacing, then aftermarket stuff which i think is inferior in most cases. I do have new brake lines which will go in now that you mentioned those could be a problem, i was putting it off for one reason or other. Fronts already have braided lines from AEV replaced around 40k miles ago so i am assuming those should last some more time.

Rebuild the calipers yourself. It's very easy. Pistons are about 8 dollars and Centric seals are about the same cost. Once the caliper is off it took me about 10 minutes to rebuild working at my slow pace.
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MARK

2005 Rubicon Sahara Unlimited #890
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 11:57 AM
Rubicus Maximus
 
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Before you start make sure your brake bleeder screws aren't seized.
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 06:25 PM
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I just did my brake lines on an '06 LJR. The rear brake lines, as you have probably noticed, are different on the Rubi than on other models, in that they are a combination of hard and soft lines.


I have heard that the older soft lines wear on the inside, especially if the brake fluid is not changed regularly (every year or two), causing little flaps on the inside of the hoses. These flaps retard the flow of fluid back to the reservoir when the pedal is released. The symptom is that the brake piston does not retract and you get what you've got. I cannot tell if that's the cause for your issue, but it is probably time to change the lines and replace the fluid.


I bought speed bleeders and installed them. Makes bleeding much easier. Also, three of the original bleeders were rusted in place and had been rounded off by the PO or his mech. Ended up removing them with a pipe wrench, which worked just fine. I have heard people complain about the speed bleeders, but I've had them for a couple of months and no signs of leakage.
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
Rubi Wheeler
 
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Thanks for the replies and tip on rebuilding the caliper. I am all about factory parts unless the aftermarket part provides benefit like black magic pads so I may end up rebuilding the caliper as the Mopar one is expensive. I hope its as easy as wildrat says but with all the rust here in Chicago everything takes much longer. If it turns out to be easy i may rebuild all of them. Heck for the price of the kit i wont mind trying.
I have bled my brakes few times already and changed the fluid so i know the bleeder valves turn except one which i stripped so that will be replaced too. Rear rotors and parts on order to be delivered on Tuesday so hopefully will get this taken care during next week.
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-12-2019, 05:54 AM
Rubicus Maximus
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bathindian2 View Post
Thanks for the replies and tip on rebuilding the caliper. I am all about factory parts unless the aftermarket part provides benefit like black magic pads so I may end up rebuilding the caliper as the Mopar one is expensive. I hope its as easy as wildrat says but with all the rust here in Chicago everything takes much longer. If it turns out to be easy i may rebuild all of them. Heck for the price of the kit i wont mind trying.

In the kit there is one seal and a dust cover. There are videos on You Tube, but glean them so you find the people who have common sense and mechanical abilities. One tip, before disconnecting the brake line to the caliper, pump the brake a couple times to push the piston out a bit, otherwise you will need to use compressed air and blow into the brake line hole to push the piston out. I suggest replacing the pistons also. They were the problem with my brakes, at least so far. LOL

MARK

2005 Rubicon Sahara Unlimited #890
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