Another Brake question - Page 4 - Rubicon Owners Forum
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post #31 of 34 (permalink) Old 08-31-2019, 01:08 AM Thread Starter
Rubi Wheeler
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 108
Does anyone know the gap between Master Cylinder piston and push pin from brake booster. Reading through some stuff i am thinking that since i am replacing my MC i may need to check/adjust the gap. Is that true ? New piston is OEM replacement from Centric so should be same in all ways. I really don't want to trial and error with driving. Is measuring the piston length out from MC good way of measuring the gap since i didn't adjust the push rod in brake booster so as long as the piston length is same the gap should be same.
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post #32 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-03-2019, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
Rubi Wheeler
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 108
Thank you everyone for all your help and responses. Brakes are all done and buttoned up. I had minor hick up bench bleeding MC but using the bleeding kit helped, i was trying one port at a time and that didn't work very well.
One of the hard lines, one from the distributor to the rear passenger was too long and i didn't cut it so took a while to route and bend. I rented tool from Autozone but it doesn't work very well. Factory bends are more like 90 degrees but with bending tool i get rounded bend which is not very helpful especially with the distributor side. At some point I may redo the lines but for now they are good as i have to get it back on road for Mrs to drive.
Did the brake in as per instructions ..i think there is a difference in stopping, but that may be psychological, as I put in the hard work I want to see a difference. I will let Mrs decide is she sees any difference.
And yes the broken hose is indeed air locker, I hate what salt and chemicals do to the underside fo the jeep.
I see the broken connector. How do I fix it ? I probably have to open the differential which I am planning to do anyways for changing oil so it would be a good time

20190902_121747.jpg

At first I though the hose goes in this hole but I was so wrong. I think its just a design which servers no purpose.

20190902_121759.jpg
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post #33 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 12:19 AM
Rubi Bad Ass
 
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 378
Those pics really hurt me.
I feel for you guys up north.
The opening should be at the top passenger side of the housing. (see attached image)

I hoping you have enough usable nipple left to simply reconnect the line.
Several people have used Ty-Wraps (aka zip ties) to help secure the line to the nipple because of air leaks.

I'm hoping it goes well, but if you need to replace the actuator plate here's a source:
https://www.crownautomotive.net/Axle...2104611AA.html
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post #34 of 34 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 12:27 AM
Rubi Crawler
 
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 290
Quote:
Originally Posted by FLLJ View Post
Those pics really hurt me.
I feel for you guys up north.
The opening should be at the top passenger side of the housing. (see attached image)

I hoping you have enough usable nipple left to simply reconnect the line.
Several people have used Ty-Wraps (aka zip ties) to help secure the line to the nipple because of air leaks.

I'm hoping it goes well, but if you need to replace the actuator plate here's a source:
https://www.crownautomotive.net/Axle...2104611AA.html
I feel for them too, the only time I see rust in AZ is when I am looking at pics of jeeps out of state. Always makes the think of that movie Fargo and them talking about the TruCoat, I wonder if those undercoats really work.
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