DPG Super Ultimate vs Metalcloack 3.5 for 35's/TT - Rubicon Owners Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-17-2019, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
Rubi Noobie
 
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DPG Super Ultimate vs Metalcloack 3.5 for 35's/TT

So... after my last post regarding OME lift options (which was very helpful; THANK YOU!), I had essentially decided to run with the Super Ultimate Kit from DPG with a DC DS and regear from the stock setup. Because I'm super critical of myself, and know that Future 72aft will hate current 72aft if I pigeon holed myself to 33's, I did some additional research. While the SU kit appears to handle most everything, I found the Metalcloak 3.5" short arm lift is also very nice. Does anyone have opinions on what the trade-offs would be of the SU kit vs a Metalcloak 3.5" lift?

As I know that 35's right out the gate is a non-starter, I'll be looking to ramp up to 33's then 35's in the future. I see the two options as this:

1) SU Kit w/ DC DS (holding off on the BL/MML) for 33's, then BL/MML for TT/35's

2) Metalcoack 3.5" lift w/ DC DS for 33's, and then again BL/MML for TT/35's

Obviously a regear would be necessary when jumping to 33's and again when going to 35's. Would any additional modifications be necessary to make this jump? I'll be adjusting the bumpstops as necessary as I plan to run stock fenders in all cases.

TT selection would be Saavy or UCF. Not bound to either, but would like to eliminate having to redo it either case.

Thoughts? Opinions? What did I miss?

Thanks!
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-17-2019, 03:24 PM
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I have experience with MetalCloak products and have been very satisfied with them. Their dual rate springs and DuroFlex control arms provide great articulation. If you decide to go with the OME kit, I would recommend the Johnny joint control arms, they will articulate better than the other option. It may come down to price at that point, MetalCloak now features free shipping. Also it may depend on if you are closer to Kansas or California as to which system you buy. Metalcloak attends many 4X4 events with their CGI trailer and they can really flex your rig out. You can see if you need more/less backspacing, bump stops, shock relocation etc.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-17-2019, 07:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 72aft View Post

Obviously a regear would be necessary when jumping to 33's and again when going to 35's.
Regear once for the 35s and be done with it. Not necessary to do it twice, lots of folk do because they change their minds and jump to 35s and up from their initial build as they gain knowledge and driving skills/ info n what they want to do.

If you have the slightest... infinitesimal idea that 35s re in your future near or far, then set it up for 35s would be my advice.
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some scrapes, dents and some skids ,UCF high clearance skid, Hybrid 3" lift w/tera 3", Bilstein 5100s, F&RATB, JJ control arms , on 255/85 KM2's

2013 crush JKU AEV bling 285/75-17s

2006 TJ project truck GR8Tops, flat fenders , 34s , 6' bed are the plan
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 06:27 AM
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there is also the other approach, highland fenders and less lift, or no lift.

re gear once, agreed.
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2003 Rubicon, just PR 60s, COs, ...
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2005 Rubicon LJ, stockish
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 07:59 AM
DAA
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I'm running all of it to clear 35's. The 3" lift, the AEV highline kit and a 1.25 body lift.

Take any one of them away and I'd need to use a chit ton of bumpstop. Which would suck. For me and how I use my LJ anyway.

For just crawling, without need of much uptravel or ride comfort, you could certainly make it work without one of the three. For an all around highway trip, dirt at speed, crawling, you name it Jeep, being on the bumps all the time would make me want to light it on fire and shoot into the flames though.

- DAA
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 01:43 PM
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I have the same thoughts as katswuy... JJ if you go the OME route for sure. Metal Cloak has also had excellent customer service when I have needed it in the past.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 02:39 PM
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My TJ sits on 35s now and if I were to do it all over again this is how I would do it:
  • 1.25" Body lift and 1" motor mount lift to make room for a tummy tuck
  • Tummy tuck and engine and transmission armor
  • High Clearance Fenders (depending on what you choose you can fit 35s with no lift, this would be my choice)
  • After market suspension arms, I have a MC suspension on my JKUR and very happy with it, so I would probably go with their arms, and 2" springs of your choice, like these
  • In lieu of the above you can go with a full 3.5" suspension, in which case I would choose Metal Cloak over DPG
  • Gear to 5:13s from the get go, they work with both 33s and 35s. That is what I did and have no complaints while I had 33s.
Not mentioned above is all the fun stuff you get to do to support the build like: double cardan driveshafts, big brake kit, additional armor (steering box), HD steering, transfer case shifter cable, and I highly recommend you add a transmission cooler.

But getting back to reality, here it is with a 4" suspension (which now is more like 3" because of the weight and sag) and a 1" body lift:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20160430_131343.jpg (77.8 KB, 48 views)

-Art
2004 Rubicon (auto), 4", TW 1350 CV shaft, Skyjacker High clearance transfer skid, 35"s...
2016 JKUR (auto), 3.5", Artec AL armor, MC fenders

Last edited by MxRubicon; 07-18-2019 at 03:04 PM.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MxRubicon View Post
My TJ sits on 35s now and if I were to do it all over again this is how I would do it:
  • 1.25" Body lift and 1" motor mount lift to make room for a tummy tuck
  • Tummy tuck and engine and transmission armor
  • High Clearance Fenders (depending on what you choose you can fit 35s with no lift, this would be my choice)
  • After market suspension arms, I have a MC suspension on my JKUR and very happy with it, so I would probably go with their arms, and 2" springs of your choice, like these
  • In lieu of the above you can go with a full 3.5" suspension, in which case I would choose Metal Cloak over DPG
  • Gear to 5:13s from the get go, they work with both 33s and 35s. That is what I did and have no complaints while I had 33s.
Not mentioned above is all the fun stuff you get to do to support the build like: double cardan driveshafts, big brake kit, additional armor (steering box), HD steering, transfer case shifter cable, and I highly recommend you add a transmission cooler.

But getting back to reality, here it is with a 4" suspension (which now is more like 3" because of the weight and sag) and a 1" body lift:
Agreed, in fact that is close to my plan for the LJ.

JCR highline fenders and armor all around. 1.25 lift, prob 3/4 link the suspension with stock or small lift springs and a 4-5" stretch. I have most of the parts now, still deciding on when to start. Also deciding if I am pulling the 37s off the TJ, or just run 35s for now. Some re-gear will happen as well, but it will be 5:13 in sure for the auto, unless V8...

On the TJ, I ran TNT fenders a BL and OME springs with 37s, no big bumpstops needed.

many ways to fit 35s and 37 while keeping the stock control arms close to stock operating angles. More static lift on the arms, worse the ride.

2003 Rubicon, just PR 60s, COs, ...
2004 Dodge CTD, with stuff
2005 Rubicon LJ, stockish
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 11:27 PM
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really depends about regearing
for 33s

5 speed regear optional

auto regear mostly needed if you want overdrive
6 speed no need to regear


for 35s
5 speed regear needed
auto regear needed and overdrive may still work
6 speed regear optional.


for manual transmissions regear is optional as you can always just downshift 1 gear when needed. I have 4.88 gears on a TJ with 5 speed and 345s and it drives on the highway well. I have a LJ with 4.88 gears and a 6 speed on 35s and it is overgeared. I have another LJ with 6 speed and stock gears on 35s and it drives well on the highway, just have to downshift onsteep hills.
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