OME 2.5" Lift advice - Rubicon Owners Forum
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-30-2018, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
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OME 2.5" Lift advice

Hi all!

Been lurking for a while and slowly planning my build (read: stashing funds) for my '04 Rubi (auto). I've been researching this site and other forums as much as I can to make it as efficient as I can, but need some additional advice.

Currently, the jeep is sitting on 265/75/R16 KO2s on Moabs with 3/4" Daystar Spring spacers. I have a Warn Rock Crawler Front bumper with a Warn XD9000i and a Bestop High Rock Rear Bumper with Carrier.

I mostly DD my jeep on the rural highway with the occasional wooded trail, but looking to allow for some minor crawling in the future. My planned build out is such:

2.5" OME Heavy Lift, 285/75/R16 Cooper STT Pros on Stock Moabs, JKS Front Discos (until I upgrade to Anti-rock), JKS Front/Rear adj. Trackbars. Will add washers to Tcase as/if necessary.

I'm looking to avoid using wheel spacers and the MML/BL, if possible. And this is where I come to you all for advice. Should the above setup work without issues if i don't include the spacers and MML/BL? What else should I be looking to add/swap prior to pulling the trigger on these?

Also, from what I've read, the 33's should probably be okay if I don't regear, but I do plan to do this in the future. I also plan to upgrade to 35's in the future (way down the line), which will necessitate the regear, but I'm sure will also need the MML/BL, so I'll probably pick them up anyway. Just looking to avoid that for now.

Thanks for the advice!
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-30-2018, 10:36 PM
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Skip the 2.5” lift and go to the Currie 4” lift. You can’t run 35s with any flex on a 2.5” lift and body lift. The OME HD springs are a lot stiff than stock and why lift it twice?
To do it right you need all the track bars and control arms, cv rear shaft Etc....
3-4” for 33s, 5-6” for 35s
With the auto you will need cv shaft and adjustable arms to get rid of driveshaft vibes.
You can run stock moab rims with 285s.
With cv shaft and adjustable arms you shouldn’t need mml.

My recommendation is complete 4” Currie lift, cv rear shaft, 285 tires on the Moab rims.
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Last edited by RickCJ7; 12-01-2018 at 01:17 AM.
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-01-2018, 12:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickCJ7 View Post
..With the auto you will need sye to get rid of driveshaft vibes..
You do not need nor can put a SYE on an '04 Rubicon as it already has a fixed yoke on the transfer case. If anything, to help rear drive shaft alignment and possible vibes with a lift higher than about three inches, get a double cardan rear driveshaft. With that, adj upper and lower control arms will be necessary to rotate the rear diff.
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-01-2018, 10:52 AM
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no matter what I would do the MML it will help the rear drive line angles.
Without spacers the 285s may rub the stock stamped control arms. replacing with longer tubular may help but you need caster correction for better drive anyway. either longer arms or cam bolts.
gears should be fine with the 285s which are about 32.5 actual though the auto may need the od shut off if many hills are on your drive.
im not a big disco guy and would skip them until the anti rocks. I can zip off the nut on my links and zip tie them up as fast as most and faster than some rusted together "quick" discos. Dont have to listen to clanks and rattles on the road too.

Steve

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some scrapes, dents and some skids ,UCF high clearance skid, Hybrid 3" lift w/tera 3", Bilstein 5100s, F&RATB, JJ control arms , on 255/85 KM2's

2013 crush JKU AEV bling 285/75-17s

2006 TJ project truck GR8Tops, flat fenders , 34s , 6' bed are the plan
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-01-2018, 11:43 AM
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I did a 2.5" OME using the heavy rate springs and by the time I had skid plates, roll cage, larger gas tank, bumpers, and a winch on there, the springs were not able to handle the weight. I had to go with the even heavier rate 4" OME springs so now I have $2400 of King adj. shocks and OME springs sitting in my garage.

As for driveline angle, I had to get a rear cv drive shaft because of vibration. I used Tom Woods. For the front, though I just adjusted the adj. control arms and it was fine - no vibration.

I did the MML/BL for a tummy tuck and it gave a ton more clearance. I use ORO dual rate Sway Lock and I like it so much more than an Anti-rock. It's tight for on-road use, and I flip a switch and it's loose for off-road. IT's expensive, but it's awesome!

I run 33's on Pro-comp 7069's with the -19 offset. I get the tiniest bit of rub on the Swayloc in some kind of condition where the wheel is stuffed and I'm turning hard passenger. It just barely touches it, but that's the only rub that occurs.

I regeared to 4.56 and it all runs great.

With all that said, I would not be able to just throw 35's on there. I think the gearing should be 4.88 in my case, but remember I added a lot of weight. Also, I'd have to re-engineer everything again to avoid rubbing or start limiting things like articulation. Or, change to high-line fenders, possibly wheel spacers, etc. My guess is I'd have to limit the turning radius to avoid rubbing against the Sway-lock. Overall, going to 35's properly in my case would require a lot of money and re-engineering. After all that, I wonder how much worse the mpg would be, as well. I'd pick one first - 33's or 35's - and engineer it for that.
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-02-2018, 09:05 AM
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Welcome to ROF!

John - WB5THT
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2006 LJ, not stock
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-03-2018, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you all for the input!

For the sake of this discussion, I'll throw out the 35s and accept re-engineering in the future to accommodate.

To summarize what I've gained here (and correct me if I missed it): Add F/R adjustable control arms, DC Driveshaft and MML.

Final build out for 285/75's would look like this: OME HD 2.5" lift, 3/4" spring spacers (due to weight of winch/bumper), F/R Adjustable control arms (I'll likely look at Currie), DC rear Driveshaft (Tom Woods), MML (Brown Dog), F/R Adjustable trackbars (JKS), Some swaybar revision (JKS Discos or Antirock/ORO).

Re-gearing can hold off and I shouldn't need the BL or wheel spacers.

I subscribe to the "buy once, cry once" mantra, so if anyone has a brand recommendation over what I've got listed above, please chime in!

Thanks!
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-03-2018, 10:44 AM
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May just be me... but with only a 2.5" lift and if you get a DC driveshaft there shouldn't be any reason to get a MML. That just causes potential shifter etc alignment problems.
Wait on the 3/4" spacers until you see how it sits.

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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-03-2018, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geroux View Post
May just be me... but with only a 2.5" lift and if you get a DC driveshaft there shouldn't be any reason to get a MML. That just causes potential shifter etc alignment problems.
Wait on the 3/4" spacers until you see how it sits.
agree if you get adjustable rear lowers and the double cardan shsft you wont need mml, original post didnt mention adjustables and dc shaft. if you do the lift and the mml you may not need the dc shaft or adjustables.

Steve

2004 Sienna Pearl
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some scrapes, dents and some skids ,UCF high clearance skid, Hybrid 3" lift w/tera 3", Bilstein 5100s, F&RATB, JJ control arms , on 255/85 KM2's

2013 crush JKU AEV bling 285/75-17s

2006 TJ project truck GR8Tops, flat fenders , 34s , 6' bed are the plan
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 12-03-2018, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 72aft View Post
Final build out for 285/75's would look like this: OME HD 2.5" lift, 3/4" spring spacers (due to weight of winch/bumper)...

I subscribe to the "buy once, cry once" mantra, so if anyone has a brand recommendation over what I've got listed above, please chime in!

Thanks!
Having run the OME springs, both regular and HD, before going to the AEV/Nth 3" progressives, I would heartily suggest getting the 3" Nth progressive springs instead of the OME's. Will net you about the same overall lift as the OME's + spacer, with better ride and handling under all conditions (my opinion after running all of them on the same Jeep).

- DAA

'06 Silver Rubi Unlimited, 6 spd, Currie arms, Nth springs, AEV Highline, 35" KM2's.
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