I did a 2.5" OME using the heavy rate springs and by the time I had skid plates, roll cage, larger gas tank, bumpers, and a winch on there, the springs were not able to handle the weight. I had to go with the even heavier rate 4" OME springs so now I have $2400 of King adj. shocks and OME springs sitting in my garage.
As for driveline angle, I had to get a rear cv drive shaft because of vibration. I used Tom Woods. For the front, though I just adjusted the adj. control arms and it was fine - no vibration.
I did the MML/BL for a tummy tuck and it gave a ton more clearance. I use ORO dual rate Sway Lock and I like it so much more than an Anti-rock. It's tight for on-road use, and I flip a switch and it's loose for off-road. IT's expensive, but it's awesome!
I run 33's on Pro-comp 7069's with the -19 offset. I get the tiniest bit of rub on the Swayloc in some kind of condition where the wheel is stuffed and I'm turning hard passenger. It just barely touches it, but that's the only rub that occurs.
I regeared to 4.56 and it all runs great.
With all that said, I would not be able to just throw 35's on there. I think the gearing should be 4.88 in my case, but remember I added a lot of weight. Also, I'd have to re-engineer everything again to avoid rubbing or start limiting things like articulation. Or, change to high-line fenders, possibly wheel spacers, etc. My guess is I'd have to limit the turning radius to avoid rubbing against the Sway-lock. Overall, going to 35's properly in my case would require a lot of money and re-engineering. After all that, I wonder how much worse the mpg would be, as well. I'd pick one first - 33's or 35's - and engineer it for that.