Dumb "drill a hole" question. - Rubicon Owners Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-12-2019, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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Dumb "drill a hole" question.

Haven't been here for a while. I have 2 Jeeps, a 2006LJR and a 2017 JKUR. I have the JK set up to tow behind my Motorhome. I am in the process of getting the LJ ready as well.

I use the Ready Brute Elite hitch set up which uses a cable to activate the Jeep brakes. After towing the JK a couple thousand miles I have decided it works pretty darn good.

It is best to install the cable on the Jeep as close as possible on the bumper. I have a Rokman bumper on the LJ. Directly behind the bumper is that round front cross member. It's pretty thin wall stuff. I am thinking of drilling a hole through it to run the cable in. Probably a 1/2" hole. This way there will be no really sharp turns with the cable.



I know that tube is structural but I doubt a hole through it will weaken anything.



Thoughts?
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-13-2019, 07:51 AM
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If you're concerned with strength, I would buy a short section of steel tubing that the cable could go through, drill the cross member and weld that tubing in to regain the strength. That cross member is a significant structural member on a TJ/LJ frame, but reinforcing the hole with tubing should keep it strong. Also, you won't be able to run a Currie sway bar if you do this as their sway bar goes through that cross member.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-13-2019, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mouse View Post
If you're concerned with strength, I would buy a short section of steel tubing that the cable could go through, drill the cross member and weld that tubing in to regain the strength. That cross member is a significant structural member on a TJ/LJ frame, but reinforcing the hole with tubing should keep it strong. Also, you won't be able to run a Currie sway bar if you do this as their sway bar goes through that cross member.

Thanks, that is what I am thinking. It looks like an important cross member, but strength wise I's say it doesn't add a lot. Pretty thin tubing. I don't even think it's 1/8" thick. I have heard it serves as a point of alignment during the construction of the frame. Hypothetically you could weld the front bumper down and remove that tube altogether. Not that anyone would. It does serve as the front body mount.



I do intend to run a piece of tubing in and welding up the ends if this idea works out. I'll try and post up some pics if I get to this job in the next year or so. I'm so dang busy with this and that anymore. Should of never retired.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-13-2019, 04:44 PM
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not sure why you done tun the wires down one of the tow arms, then to the jeep. Thinking the drivers side arm then right to the brakes.

Again, not sure why it needs to be in the middle, even if that is where you are drilling the hole. Is there also a hole in the bumper for the wires to go through.

Not totally picturing where the wiring is going to and from.

The tube, as I have read, is part of the torsional stiffness of the frame. agreed that a small hole may not be a big issue, I do like the reinforcing idea from mouse. but not sure where any why go through it. Over/under the tube works and isn't that much farther for wiring.

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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-13-2019, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by inline6 View Post
not sure why you done tun the wires down one of the tow arms, then to the jeep. Thinking the drivers side arm then right to the brakes.

Again, not sure why it needs to be in the middle, even if that is where you are drilling the hole. Is there also a hole in the bumper for the wires to go through.

Not totally picturing where the wiring is going to and from.

The tube, as I have read, is part of the torsional stiffness of the frame. agreed that a small hole may not be a big issue, I do like the reinforcing idea from mouse. but not sure where any why go through it. Over/under the tube works and isn't that much farther for wiring.

Apples/Oranges.

I hook up my wiring via a 4 prong connection on the bumper which goes to a coiled 7 pin to 4 pin cord to the Motorhome. That controls my turn signals/tail lamps/"extra" brake lamps. I drill a hole in the tail lamp housing and run a separate bulb that the Motorhome operates. The only wire on the Jeep I tap into is the brake lamp switch at the brake petal to energize my Demco Coachlink which has a wireless display on the Motorhome dash to let me know the brakes are engaging. Hence the dual brake lights, press the brake on the Motorhome the auxiliary bulb lights up. When the brakes are applied to the Jeep a second brake light comes on.



All that has nothing to do with the hole in the cross member. That is for the brake cable. Not a electric cable. It is best to put this as close to center as possible. The brake cable housing is maybe 5/16"-3/8" in diameter. The break away cable can be mounted on the side just fine.



https://www.youtube.com/redirect?red...readybrake.com


Short video




I have the 8,000 lb Elite tow bar. Been using it on our 2017 JKUR for a while and it works flawless.

No tapping into the sort of complex Jeep system, no worries of warranty issues. No diodes etc. I like simple.
My set-up is modified for the Jeeps. I don't like or trust that cable hanging out in front. Rock can destroy that real easy. On the JK I have a Rock Hard aluminum bumper which I designed a fold down license plate for. I cut out the bumper and behind the plate the cable and electrical connection lives. I'm doing similar on the LJR and Rokman bumper. No folding lic plate though. I moved the plate (required in CA) up over the winch fair lead. I'll use a simple metal plate to cover the hole where the cable and connector will live. I'll try and get photos up soon.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-13-2019, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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See if this pic works.
The cable E3524AEA-83AA-4E1B-AFFD-2283DCB26372_1568415818273.jpg
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-13-2019, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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Here is the JKUR set up.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 8190F83C-D61F-401D-9337-4D61D092D449_1568416042347.jpg (95.1 KB, 2 views)
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-13-2019, 07:13 PM
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good ole Sam and Dave still telling us how ti works and installing the parts that make things go and stop.

I see now what you are doing. Interesting way to apply the vehicle service brakes, cool.

again, I am sure you could go through the tube. I would put a 3/4OD .1 wall or so through it and then your cable through that. Something easy to weld and provide some structure back in.
I guess with this system it would be best to have the cable about level with the tow/brake adapter. could make the actual decision for you.

Thinking about what is behind the tube to get to through the engine compartment to the brake pedal area. Thats some fun routing as well.


feels like my trailer is so much easier now. But I get towing a trailer behind a RV has its own issues.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-13-2019, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inline6 View Post
The tube, as I have read, is part of the torsional stiffness of the frame. agreed that a small hole may not be a big issue, I do like the reinforcing idea from mouse. .
If it is structural, which it is, it sure is a weak sister. Very thin wall stuff that has indentations for the steering box. I am sure the integrity of the structure is meant to keep frame flex at the steering box at a minimum. A 3/8"-1/2" hole in the center won't jeopardize it's function.




Quote:
Originally Posted by inline6 View Post
Over/under the tube works and isn't that much farther for wiring.

It is best to avoid any sharp turns with the cable for obvious reasons. Over the top may be possible. I will try that first. On the bottom will be begging for a rock to smash the cable.

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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-13-2019, 07:21 PM
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fur under, just a quick piece of angle over the cable.

2003 Rubicon, just PR 60s, COs, ...
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2005 Rubicon LJ, stockish
2017 JKU sport, just UD60
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