good ole Sam and Dave still telling us how ti works and installing the parts that make things go and stop.
I see now what you are doing. Interesting way to apply the vehicle service brakes, cool.
again, I am sure you could go through the tube. I would put a 3/4OD .1 wall or so through it and then your cable through that. Something easy to weld and provide some structure back in.
I guess with this system it would be best to have the cable about level with the tow/brake adapter. could make the actual decision for you.
Thinking about what is behind the tube to get to through the engine compartment to the brake pedal area. Thats some fun routing as well.
feels like my trailer is so much easier now. But I get towing a trailer behind a RV has its own issues.
In the center behind the tube is a the front tub mount which is welded to the tube.
LOL, on this LJ getting the cable routed will be duck soup. It was difficult getting a good shot on the JK. On that JK you can toss $15 worth of dime under the hood and only $3.80 will make it to the floor. Gonna get at least $12.60 back on the LJ.
And yes, I love this hitch. If you ever get one install a 1/4" turnbuckle on the cable to get it adjusted just right. Only complaints I have with it are: It can be noisy. Clank-Clank in stop and go. And it is a lot more bulky than most hitches. It doesn't just fold up nice and compact like many others do.
FYI. One thing I discovered on the NSA Ready Brute Elite hitch is they have no adapters to connect the hitch to aftermarket bumper D rings. I was going to just build my own but decided on getting the Warrior Products adapter which I think may work as is or can be modified to work pretty easy.
NSA is very soon coming out with a newer version of the Ready Brute hitch and they also announced they will soon have available proper mounts for off road bumpers. On the JK I have the Rock Hard aluminum front bumper which uses very well built steel adapters that bolt to the Jeep frame.
No room to go over the top. And the cable could rub against the cross over brake line. But it’ll go under the tube fine and with proper use of zip ties the odds of it getting hit is slim. The cable and 4 pin electrical connector will live in the hole. A 3/16” metal plate with 4 5/16” button heads will go on when I’m not towing it.
Thanks for advice etc.
I know it’d be a simpler job if I pulled the bumper. I may still do that. At least now with the hole I can get at the bolts holding the winch! Before you had to lift the heavy bumper and winch to get it off.