Death Wobble, Bad front wheel Unit Bearing bearing/hub?? - Rubicon Owners Forum
 10Likes
  • 1 Post By SteveVB
  • 2 Post By Mouse
  • 2 Post By johncanfield
  • 3 Post By Wildrat
  • 2 Post By katswuy
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
Rubi Noobie
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Northern Arizona - Outside Ash Fork
Posts: 47
Unhappy Death Wobble, Bad front wheel Unit Bearing bearing/hub??

OK - Just found I problem I didn't want. At about 60/65 MPH I hit the brakes and it starts slowing down then goes into a wild shake on the left front. Did it 3 times today coming home. 50 mph and below there is no shake and it stops straight. It feels like it is only the 1 wheel.


FYI In the past I had an issue where the RF wheel/tire went into a shake while slowing down and going around a right corner. I searched Death wobble and found shock problems, track bar problems, etc. I checked the track bar it didn't seem loose but I tightened up the track bar bolt tight enough to break it - surprise. I replaced it with a little bit larger true grade 5 bolt and got it good and tight. I also replaced the shocks with new Bilsteens that were standard to 1 1/2 longer gas charged - they seem to be a bit too long and hold the body up on the springs - gives a little wiggle until there is some weight to sack it down some. I also found at that time that the air gauge I was using - dial type- was reading at least 10 psi higher then what was in the tire. I have E rated stiff side wall tires 265/75-16 on it- they came with it. I was airing them down to 20-22 per the gauge that was actually 10-12 psi - on the road. I figured that was too low and caused the right turn wobble. I had them checked for balance - they had been run for a few thousand miles with no issue at higher pressures. Every tire was out of balance but were able to be Rebalanced OK. So I thought everything was OK.
Jeep has been parked for a couple of years while I did things to it - new Ujoints and greasible CV joint on Front Driveline, water pump, idlers, belt , etc.


Finally got it up and running again then this. The only other thing that may be an issue is that I had it up on jack stands with wheels off for that couple of years while life got in the way and the rotors rusted up some. I was going to sand them off/clean them up before running it again but I forgot and went ahead and stuck the wheels on (at night) and dropped it down. I know I probably affected the pads while they rubbed off the rust. I ran it while holding down hard on the brakes to clean them off - ran it around using the brakes hard , etc and ordered a set of new pads front & rear. Haven't installed them yet. Seemed to be stopping better and better no pull, hard pedal - push harder and stop better.



Finally getting to the questions. Would a bad unit bearing allow the wheel/disc to start shaking badly under braking only the way I described it. No shake or wobble while running up to 70mph - just when I hit the brakes at that time. Is there any way a brake pad would be slick enough to not clamp ( not wore out - still plenty of pad) and start a wobble - the other 3 wheels not reacting badly - clamping and slowing down.


Any Ideas appreciated!


LBM

Last edited by motovate; 09-09-2019 at 10:10 PM.
motovate is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 09:52 PM
Rubicus Maximus
 
SteveVB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Laytonsville, MD
Posts: 771
Sitting for periods of time is the worst thing for a vehicle.

Since it happens when you apply brakes I would start there.

The brake grabbing as you apply would cause those symptoms. a rust spot on the rotor would allow the brakes to apply unevenly. Change out the front rotors and pads. Check the calipers for freedom of movement. Bleed the brakes get some fresh fluid.
johncanfield likes this.

Steve

2004 Sienna Pearl
no front bumper extensions
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
some scrapes, dents and some skids ,UCF high clearance skid, Hybrid 3" lift w/tera 3", Bilstein 5100s, F&RATB, JJ control arms , on 255/85 KM2's

2013 crush JKU AEV bling 285/75-17s

2006 TJ project truck GR8Tops, flat fenders , 34s , 6' bed are the plan
SteveVB is offline  
post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 10:16 PM Thread Starter
Rubi Noobie
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Northern Arizona - Outside Ash Fork
Posts: 47
Unhappy Rotors

Sure would of been better to clean look at the rotor like I planned to - got in a hurry.



Thanks - Do the front rotors come off easily?? Any screws/bolts or ??? holding them on the hub??
LBM



Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveVB View Post
Sitting for periods of time is the worst thing for a vehicle.

Since it happens when you apply brakes I would start there.

The brake grabbing as you apply would cause those symptoms. a rust spot on the rotor would allow the brakes to apply unevenly. Change out the front rotors and pads. Check the calipers for freedom of movement. Bleed the brakes get some fresh fluid.
motovate is offline  
 
post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 08:53 AM
Official WebWheeler
 
Mouse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: West Ogden, UT
Posts: 3,283
Garage
If the suspension & steering were in A1 condition a rusted rotor would not induce death wobble because there would be no excess movement among those components. A unit bearing absolutely can cause DW, but you can test it for excess movement rather than just replacing parts. Still a good idea to start with the rotors, but have someone turn the steering wheel left/right while you watch the track bar and every steering component. Be sure to check the ball joints as well.
Norminator and johncanfield like this.

Lives in garage:

2004 Red Jeep TJ "X", big tires, suspension, stereo delete, dent in cowl.


1982 Red Jeep Scrambler, small block chevy on 35's.

"Those who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety." -Benjamin Franklin
Mouse is offline  
post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 09:25 AM
Administrator
 
johncanfield's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Texas Hill Country
Posts: 10,341
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mouse View Post
.....have someone turn the steering wheel left/right while you watch the track bar and every steering component. Be sure to check the ball joints as well.
This! How many miles on the clock?

John - WB5THT
=======================
2006 LJ, not stock
johncanfield is offline  
post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-12-2019, 02:43 AM Thread Starter
Rubi Noobie
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Northern Arizona - Outside Ash Fork
Posts: 47
Cool

183300 - I think most of it is on road miles - probably towed. One reason I bought it was because it was so clean underneath. I've put maybe 3000 miles on it most of that on the road. Until I figured out what the bad squeal was - the front drive shaft cv joint. Fixed that but then it was up on stands and things keep getting in the way and it stayed there for way too long. Found a bolt on the bottom of the front cover that had backed out and was rubbing on the lower pulley - thought that was the squeal - nope but it did tell me that someone had it apart at some time. So you just never know with used anything.



Quote:
Originally Posted by johncanfield View Post
This! How many miles on the clock?
motovate is offline  
post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-12-2019, 02:46 AM Thread Starter
Rubi Noobie
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Northern Arizona - Outside Ash Fork
Posts: 47
Cool

Definately do not have an issue running at speed on the highway until I hit the brakes then the LF starts a bad scary shimmy/wobble - that only seemed to be that wheel. I slowed down to 50-55 mph and then pushed the brakes hard to stop and there was no wobble. Probably the brakes and possibly the tire.


I have the pads for all 4 wheels and I just ordered the 4 rotors from Rock Auto. Just going to do them all while I'm there and I'll look to see what ever I can see on the rest of the components. I just checked the mileage 183300. I think most is on the highway miles - bottom of jeep does not look at all like it has been off road much. Probably with that mileage the ball joints and tie rod ends are loose????? Except for the way underinflated tires on the asphalt wobbling which was the bad gauge I haven't had any drive-able issues until now - well except for that squeeling front driveshaft CV joint that drove me nuts until I figured out it was the problem.


I paid a premium for this Rubicon because it was so clean top to bottom. Been learning Jeep Lessons I never wanted to learn ever since.





Quote:
Originally Posted by Mouse View Post
If the suspension & steering were in A1 condition a rusted rotor would not induce death wobble because there would be no excess movement among those components. A unit bearing absolutely can cause DW, but you can test it for excess movement rather than just replacing parts. Still a good idea to start with the rotors, but have someone turn the steering wheel left/right while you watch the track bar and every steering component. Be sure to check the ball joints as well.
motovate is offline  
post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-12-2019, 09:35 AM
Administrator
 
johncanfield's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Texas Hill Country
Posts: 10,341
Garage
Even being towed, the drive shafts, axles, transfer case parts, etc are all spinning around. With that many miles I would suspect any front end suspension part causing DW.
Mouse and Wildrat like this.

John - WB5THT
=======================
2006 LJ, not stock
johncanfield is offline  
post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-12-2019, 03:39 PM
Rubicus Maximus
 
Wildrat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: South Alabama Mountains
Posts: 2,084
Quote:
Originally Posted by johncanfield View Post
Even being towed, the drive shafts, axles, transfer case parts, etc are all spinning around. With that many miles I would suspect any front end suspension part causing DW.

It'll take me a minimum 90 years to get those miles on my Jeep. LOL
cj7prince, Mouse and johncanfield like this.

MARK

2005 Rubicon Sahara Unlimited #890
Wildrat is offline  
post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-15-2019, 06:17 PM
RubiconOwnersForum.com Premium
 
katswuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Brawley, CA.
Posts: 1,285
For my "death wobble" saga take a look at this link. 6 months and about $2500 worth of work and parts. To be fair, about $1400 was warrantied.

https://www.rubiconownersforum.com/f...th-wobble.html
Mouse and johncanfield like this.

The liver is evil, it must be punished.
_______________________________

2006 LJ Rubicon, 6 sp. 3.5/4 in. RE lift, Rockhard front bumper, Hanson rear bumper, ORO spare/dual jerry can carrier, Moab wheels with Spidertrax 1.5" spacers, 285/75R16 BFG KO2's, Misch overhead shelf, Black Box 2-way, Kenwood Excelon double din nav/cd/dvd/am/fm/sirius system, Rigid SideShooter front LED's, Warn winch, custom Viair OBA, Banks Cat-back exhaust
katswuy is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Rubicon Owners Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome