Soft Metal on TJ A Post Windshield Hinge - Rubicon Owners Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
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Soft Metal on TJ A Post Windshield Hinge

I'm trying to install Rugged Ridge Quick Release side mirrors so I can drive without doors. I got the left side just fine but on the right side I can tell the torx bit bolt/screws (T40) are too tight to handle the torque needed to remove them. One of those bolts is already a little marred.


It does not matter if these bolts are destroyed as they will be replaced by hardened metal bolts.



Any tips on how to take these things off with minimal damage? Thanks.

2004 Rubi TJ Low COG Recipe: 33x12.5 tires under flat fender flares, 1/1.25 inch motor/body lift, 2.5 inch OME suspension lift, all new JKS upper/lower control arms, more...
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-29-2019, 09:28 PM
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I have a impact screwdriver set for those torx bolts.

Something like this

https://www.amazon.com/CRAFTSMAN-Imp...a-792201167904

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-30-2019, 07:45 AM
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What inline6 said and suggested!!!

Use one and give it the gusto with a hammer because if that doesn't work guess what.... you are either leaving that screw in there and half arsed installing your mirrors or drilling the OEM screw out in a very painstaking and tedious surgery.

Eric C.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-30-2019, 09:17 AM
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Somebody on another Jeep forum recommends just grinding the head off, remove the part and then use Vise Grips to remove the stud.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-30-2019, 09:49 AM
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Make sure you are using the correct size bit, it should be tight. Key is to keep a ton of pressure into the bit to keep it engaged. Since its got paint on it it wants to slip out. I cut the paint around the screw with a utility knife.

Good luck. I stripped the head out of one of my JKs door hinges putting on a step, drilling it out was not fun. I drilled the head off removed the hinge and welded nut to it.

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-30-2019, 05:19 PM
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I have had success doing the following...

Cut the paint around the bolt with a razor.
Heat the bolt with a soldering iron. It softens the factory loctite.
Using a handheld manual impact, hammer tap the bolt with the torx.
Then remove with a normal ratchet by hand.

You may have to go back and do a previous step. Heating the bolt and softening the thread locker is key.
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Last edited by Norminator; 07-30-2019 at 05:57 PM.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-30-2019, 05:55 PM
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And for that worst case scenario...

I like these better than easy-outs. They seem to bite better and the proper drill tip is matched. The shoulder on the drilling part regulates depth nicely.

83F8822C-8165-4C10-9B9B-3EE7C6B46133.jpg
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-31-2019, 09:48 AM
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I don't recall thread locker being on any of the Torx head bolts I've messed with. I believe they are torqued down enough to where the friction between the flange head and the metal part is enough to resist removal. Could be the ones that can't be removed had an out of torque spec driver tool used.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-31-2019, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johncanfield View Post
I don't recall thread locker being on any of the Torx head bolts I've messed with. I believe they are torqued down enough to where the friction between the flange head and the metal part is enough to resist removal. Could be the ones that can't be removed had an out of torque spec driver tool used.
You may be right. I read about the thread locker somewhere else. I donít recall where that was.

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-01-2019, 07:29 AM
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Mine definitely had thread locker on it.... you could see it after it was removed. Blue actually.

Eric C.
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