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OME 2.5" Lift advice

10K views 40 replies 18 participants last post by  97heep 
#1 ·
Hi all!

Been lurking for a while and slowly planning my build (read: stashing funds) for my '04 Rubi (auto). I've been researching this site and other forums as much as I can to make it as efficient as I can, but need some additional advice.

Currently, the jeep is sitting on 265/75/R16 KO2s on Moabs with 3/4" Daystar Spring spacers. I have a Warn Rock Crawler Front bumper with a Warn XD9000i and a Bestop High Rock Rear Bumper with Carrier.

I mostly DD my jeep on the rural highway with the occasional wooded trail, but looking to allow for some minor crawling in the future. My planned build out is such:

2.5" OME Heavy Lift, 285/75/R16 Cooper STT Pros on Stock Moabs, JKS Front Discos (until I upgrade to Anti-rock), JKS Front/Rear adj. Trackbars. Will add washers to Tcase as/if necessary.

I'm looking to avoid using wheel spacers and the MML/BL, if possible. And this is where I come to you all for advice. Should the above setup work without issues if i don't include the spacers and MML/BL? What else should I be looking to add/swap prior to pulling the trigger on these?

Also, from what I've read, the 33's should probably be okay if I don't regear, but I do plan to do this in the future. I also plan to upgrade to 35's in the future (way down the line), which will necessitate the regear, but I'm sure will also need the MML/BL, so I'll probably pick them up anyway. Just looking to avoid that for now.

Thanks for the advice!
 
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#2 · (Edited)
Skip the 2.5” lift and go to the Currie 4” lift. You can’t run 35s with any flex on a 2.5” lift and body lift. The OME HD springs are a lot stiff than stock and why lift it twice?
To do it right you need all the track bars and control arms, cv rear shaft Etc....
3-4” for 33s, 5-6” for 35s
With the auto you will need cv shaft and adjustable arms to get rid of driveshaft vibes.
You can run stock moab rims with 285s.
With cv shaft and adjustable arms you shouldn’t need mml.

My recommendation is complete 4” Currie lift, cv rear shaft, 285 tires on the Moab rims.
 
#3 ·
…..With the auto you will need sye to get rid of driveshaft vibes.….
You do not need nor can put a SYE on an '04 Rubicon as it already has a fixed yoke on the transfer case. If anything, to help rear drive shaft alignment and possible vibes with a lift higher than about three inches, get a double cardan rear driveshaft. With that, adj upper and lower control arms will be necessary to rotate the rear diff.
 
#4 ·
no matter what I would do the MML it will help the rear drive line angles.
Without spacers the 285s may rub the stock stamped control arms. replacing with longer tubular may help but you need caster correction for better drive anyway. either longer arms or cam bolts.
gears should be fine with the 285s which are about 32.5 actual though the auto may need the od shut off if many hills are on your drive.
im not a big disco guy and would skip them until the anti rocks. I can zip off the nut on my links and zip tie them up as fast as most and faster than some rusted together "quick" discos. Dont have to listen to clanks and rattles on the road too.
 
#5 ·
I did a 2.5" OME using the heavy rate springs and by the time I had skid plates, roll cage, larger gas tank, bumpers, and a winch on there, the springs were not able to handle the weight. I had to go with the even heavier rate 4" OME springs so now I have $2400 of King adj. shocks and OME springs sitting in my garage.

As for driveline angle, I had to get a rear cv drive shaft because of vibration. I used Tom Woods. For the front, though I just adjusted the adj. control arms and it was fine - no vibration.

I did the MML/BL for a tummy tuck and it gave a ton more clearance. I use ORO dual rate Sway Lock and I like it so much more than an Anti-rock. It's tight for on-road use, and I flip a switch and it's loose for off-road. IT's expensive, but it's awesome!

I run 33's on Pro-comp 7069's with the -19 offset. I get the tiniest bit of rub on the Swayloc in some kind of condition where the wheel is stuffed and I'm turning hard passenger. It just barely touches it, but that's the only rub that occurs.

I regeared to 4.56 and it all runs great.

With all that said, I would not be able to just throw 35's on there. I think the gearing should be 4.88 in my case, but remember I added a lot of weight. Also, I'd have to re-engineer everything again to avoid rubbing or start limiting things like articulation. Or, change to high-line fenders, possibly wheel spacers, etc. My guess is I'd have to limit the turning radius to avoid rubbing against the Sway-lock. Overall, going to 35's properly in my case would require a lot of money and re-engineering. After all that, I wonder how much worse the mpg would be, as well. I'd pick one first - 33's or 35's - and engineer it for that.
 
#7 ·
Thank you all for the input!

For the sake of this discussion, I'll throw out the 35s and accept re-engineering in the future to accommodate.

To summarize what I've gained here (and correct me if I missed it): Add F/R adjustable control arms, DC Driveshaft and MML.

Final build out for 285/75's would look like this: OME HD 2.5" lift, 3/4" spring spacers (due to weight of winch/bumper), F/R Adjustable control arms (I'll likely look at Currie), DC rear Driveshaft (Tom Woods), MML (Brown Dog), F/R Adjustable trackbars (JKS), Some swaybar revision (JKS Discos or Antirock/ORO).

Re-gearing can hold off and I shouldn't need the BL or wheel spacers.

I subscribe to the "buy once, cry once" mantra, so if anyone has a brand recommendation over what I've got listed above, please chime in!

Thanks!
 
#10 ·
Final build out for 285/75's would look like this: OME HD 2.5" lift, 3/4" spring spacers (due to weight of winch/bumper)...

I subscribe to the "buy once, cry once" mantra, so if anyone has a brand recommendation over what I've got listed above, please chime in!

Thanks!
Having run the OME springs, both regular and HD, before going to the AEV/Nth 3" progressives, I would heartily suggest getting the 3" Nth progressive springs instead of the OME's. Will net you about the same overall lift as the OME's + spacer, with better ride and handling under all conditions (my opinion after running all of them on the same Jeep).

- DAA
 
#8 ·
May just be me... but with only a 2.5" lift and if you get a DC driveshaft there shouldn't be any reason to get a MML. That just causes potential shifter etc alignment problems.
Wait on the 3/4" spacers until you see how it sits.
 
#9 ·
agree if you get adjustable rear lowers and the double cardan shsft you wont need mml, original post didnt mention adjustables and dc shaft. if you do the lift and the mml you may not need the dc shaft or adjustables.
 
#15 ·
I have JKS trackbars and recommend them but their disconnects rattle if you aren't diligent with greasing them.
 
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#16 ·
Thanks for help, all!

Follow up questions here: Do I need to get the adjustable control arms F/R at this time, or is it something I can work into? I understand there may be some rubbing on the tires (I currently have that with the 265's) with the stock arms. Also, at what point do you look into a DC front driveshaft as well?
 
#17 ·
As far as the front driveshaft, it is already DC.

The adjustable control arms come into play when you need to adjust pinion angles to eliminate vibrations. No vibrations, adjustable control arms are not necessarily needed. They are usually needed in the rear (for a DC driveshaft) before the front, due to the longer front driveshaft.
 
#18 ·
The adjustable control arms in the front are to correct for caster, a longer length is needed to correct some of the geometry changes. You can buy a fixed front control arm too if cost is an issue and you don't expect to change the lift height.
I have fixed front arms that were built with Johnny joints on my 04. You can find fixed poly jointed arms from 100 bucks I think, and then any combination of joints and bushings from there with the associated additional cost.
I think you must have a way to adjust the caster in the front for drivability. Either cam bolts to adjust the existing lower arms, though the range may not be quite enough, a longer fixed length arm, or an adjustable arm.
The front is a game to get the caster you need for good tracking and the driveshaft angles for smooth powertrain operation without vibes
The rear is about driveline angles. With a 2 -3 inch lift you could wait and see how the jeep reacts to the changes. One of the reasons i suggested the MML was to maybe alleviate the need for the adjustable rears, sort of works like the transfercase drops included with most lifts.
 
#19 ·
One thing to add. OME doesn't even make a 2.5" lift. What OME manufactures for a Jeep Wrangler TJ/LJ is two sets of coil coil springs and shocks that are intended to lift a vehicle 50mm, which is slightly less than 2". Australia uses the metric system and has laws that say that with more than 50mm alteration in suspension height, one needs extra inspections and approvals. These requirements are burdensome in Australia but don't exist here, where the SAME EXACT LIFT that is sold as a 50mm lift is advertized as a 2.5" lift, which would be about 62mm to 64mm.

The two combinations of springs/shocks are the standard duty and the heavy duty. Every Rubicon model, whether soft top or hard top, needs the HD springs.

One other thing. OME makes a number of other springs which are intended for other Jeeps - ZJs, WJs, XJs, and KJs - plus other vehicle brands - that do not match up well in length or spring rate or spring diameter with a suspension intended for a Jeep TJ application. When such mismatched springs are used on a TJ, you miss out on the most important part of an OME lift, which is the precisely matched combination of springs and shocks, producing 50mm of lift with an actual improvement in ride comfort.

One may actually initially measure in excess of 60mm of lift when an OME TJ lift is new. However it quickly settles out around 50mm and lasts for years without sagging further. YMMV because vehicle weights are never the same, each Jeep is different. On my own 2003 TJ Rubicon, I needed 1/2" spring spacers, front only, to compensate for the extra weight of a Warn XD9000i winch on the front bumper, even though I had the OME HD Wrangler lift.
 
#22 ·
I happen to be real happy with the 2.5 OME ZJ/LJ combo which i'm running with 1" spring spacers. I've probably got about 20K miles (mostly hard trail) and it's been great. Real smooth over bumps and good control in the hard stuff. Other Jeepers that occasionally go with me always comment on how much they like the setup. I've got the LJ so not sure exactly which spring combo would work best for you but there were several good threads on the OME setups back in the forum, if you haven't looked yet you may want to. Here is an example: https://www.rubiconownersforum.com/...wheels/40998-35s-ome-zj-lj-spring-lift-5.html
 
#25 ·
Hi Bob. I hear ya. Originally I was thinking takeoff Rubi springs with low miles going on the cheap. I had a set that Craig B on here had offered but shipping was quite a bit. Then I was thinking about the takeoff linear OME springs that seem to get pulled off a lot. But was wondering if I should go progressive rate due to the much better reviews here. In the end I decided to go with a build up a bit at a time on my Rubi picking different pieces over time like Craig has done and get some new progressive rate springs and matching shocks along with a rear track bar rel bracket to start. Dont want to get to rad all at one time since it is my primary DD. Will post how things go. Later.
Glenn 04 Rubi
 
#26 ·
There seems to be some people who love and some who hate OME springs (which is like a lot of things). Just wanted to post some pictures for reference as I just installed some on my LJR (933 front and 942 rear). I have a Warn rear bumper (no tire carrier) with some tools/recovery gear in the back and a new front bumper (just noted for the extra weight). I've only had them on for a few days but so far on the drive to work and some very light wheeling/dirt roads I think they ride better then stock. Although I did have 150k miles on my stock coils.

As for the bumper (if anyones interested), its Bulldog Winch brand stubby. Found it for right at $200 at a local shop so I figured it was worth trying out for a while.

First pic is before, second two are after the coil's and bumper install.
 

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#27 ·
I been doing some research tonight on the OME lifts and thought I'd post it here for others to find. First thought, the OME lift is not a 2.5" lift but a 50mm (~2" [1.9685"]) lift. Not sure why people constantly post it as a 2.5" lift. The heavy rate coils might provide more than the intended 50mm of lift but that is because the Jeep does not weigh enough to cause the springs to sag. The lift is designed by net 50mm when paired with the proper rate coils. I have a light jeep compared to other highly modified jeeps and found the heavy rate springs to be too stiff and caused the jeep to buck when going over rough roads at driving speeds. When I swapped to the lighter rate springs my ride improved folds and still netted me close to the designed lift height. Anyways here are the specs from the OME Catalog on the springs that can be used on the TJ.

Coil # / Coil Rate / Free Length
OME Front 2931 ZJ I6 - 140 lbf/in - 20.08 in
OME Front 2932 0 to 88.18 lbs - 140 lbf/in - 18.89 in
OME Front 2933 88.18 to 176.37 lbs - 140 lbf/in - 19.48 in
OME Front 2934 ZJ V8 - 160 lbf/in - 20.08 in

OME Rear 2941 Hard Top - 140 lbf/in - 15.35 in
OME Rear 2942 220.46 lbs - 160 lbf/in - 14.96 in
OME Rear 2949 LJ Hard Top - 216 lbf/in -14.57 in

The OME coils are a linear coil so they maintain the same rate throughout.
 
#31 ·
My M8000 with synthetic line only weights around 80lbs. I thought it was a lot more than that but was surprised to find out it didn't. It might not lower as much as you think depending on the front spring you got. I had the 2933 springs on my jeep first because I thought the winch was in the 100bs range but the ride was horrible. I swapped out to the 2932 springs and it rode a lot better and still didn't lose any height due to the winch just the free length of the springs. I am running the Savvy front bumper though that is actually lighter than the stock bumper and has a built in winch plate.
 
#34 ·
I've not mentioned them because I've not been able to find the specs of their coils. Also back in the early 2000's when I got into Jeeping Skyjacker, Rancho, Teraflex. were not considered high quality lifts as their coils would start sagging quickly and suspension components were not well made. I know Teraflex did an overhaul when the JK came out and they have a 2" TJ lift as well but not a lot of info on it either.

This being my 2nd Jeep to build I started this project with the mindset of getting the best parts. Currie, Savvy, etc are some of the best names in the industry and their products are race proven and developed.

I am not saying there is anything wrong with other brands I just have not found information on or been able to obtaine information for other brands thus I haven't considered them because of such.

If you do happen to go with Rancho springs please post some info about them like free length, installed length and how much lift they provided (measurements pre install and post install). Also the specs of your Jeep (armor, bumpers, winch etc.) Ranch does make good quality shocks though and I've though about running them when the OME ones need replaced.
 
#38 · (Edited)
So after reading most (all?) of the replies and links, I had settled on the Nth Degree 3" progressives and Bilstein shocks. However, I came to find out that tracking down a new set of said springs seems to be problematic, if not impossible. Reaching out to nth degree via their online contact information has yielded a disconnected phone and unanswered emails. If someone has a way to buy some of these babies (preferably new), I'm all ears. Otherwise, I'm probably going to head back to the OME setup or possibly a 3" Teraflex as mentioned by 97Heep. Does anyone have here any experience with that setup? I suppose I could also be looking at the 3" Savvy progressives to replace nth...

Thanks!
 
#39 ·
I ran the savvy 3" on my 97 jeep and liked them however they netted me closer to 3.5/3.75in of lift because that jeep had no armor and only a winch on the front. I've read they were redone and are better then before. Just keep in mind the 3in coils are designed with the weight of a jeep that has savvys armor which is still lighter than Steel but heavier than stock.

My 97 with 33x10.5R15 tires with 3in savvy coils and 1.25in BL.

The only reason I didn't go with the Savvy 3in coils this round was I didn't want 3in of lift. I wanted to stay around the 2in lift mark with the 1.25in BL.
 

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